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MDT currently at the #3 slot for July all time Mean temps.    The next two days should push it down to the ones below it (or close) but then next week may pull it back up again.  I think #1 is out of reach now.  8 of the top 11 have taken place since 2000; Hot Box/HIA rules.   MDT will probably score their 10th BN day of the month today and 11 looks do-able tomorrow.  

 

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Some spots touched the 50's this morning across the County. Beautiful weather with low humidity continues through at least Monday before our next chance of showers.
Chester County records for today: High 100 degrees at Phoenixville (1930) / Low 42 degrees at Morgantown/Elverson (1976) / Rain 3.28" at Spring City (2023)
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GFS, CMC and EC all still say no official heat wave until a week out.  After Sunday, EC has no days above 86 @ 2PM for MDT until a week from today.   I bet MDT does hit 90 on at least one of those days but 3 days in a row is not forecast by the 3 major Globals as this time.   CMC is the closest with a possible mini–Heat Wave Sun-Tue before cooling down.   If the CPC forecast were calling for extreme heat prior to Aug 1 or 2 they may adjust. 

 

 

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7 minutes ago, Bubbler86 said:

GFS, CMC and EC all still say no official heat wave until a week out.  After Sunday, EC has no days above 86 @ 2PM for MDT until a week from today.   I bet MDT does hit 90 on at least one of those days but 3 days in a row is not forecast by the 3 major Globals as this time.   CMC is the closest with a possible mini–Heat Wave Sun-Tue before cooling down.   If the CPC forecast were calling for extreme heat prior to Aug 1 or 2 they may adjust. 

 

 

No complaints here. I just got my electric bill for the past month and was pleasantly surprised. Apparently that attic insulation and other measures I took since buying this place in 2019 have worked, notwithstanding my 13 SEER A/C unit.

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3 minutes ago, mitchnick said:

No complaints here. I just got my electric bill for the past month and was pleasantly surprised. Apparently that attic insulation and other measures I took since buying this place in 2019 have worked, notwithstanding my 13 SEER A/C unit.

I just got mine this week.  It took them 2.5 days to take out all the fiberglass batting, seal then blow in cellulose.  Hoping for some returns now.   It has been so "not hot" this week, hard to see any difference...plus it may be more of a winter savings than summer re: heat rises.   

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55 minutes ago, Bubbler86 said:

I just got mine this week.  It took them 2.5 days to take out all the fiberglass batting, seal then blow in cellulose.  Hoping for some returns now.   It has been so "not hot" this week, hard to see any difference...plus it may be more of a winter savings than summer re: heat rises.   

In the summer, I  find my 2nd floor is no where near as warm, with the 1st floor less noticeable as you would expect. But more noticeable all over the house in the winter, with many areas of my 2nd floor definitely warmer due to apparent lousy job of insulating dating back to original build in 1978. He!!, they originally only had R19 in the attic! At some point, however, the original owners had somebody do a half-azzed job of adding another layer of R19...but the added R19 still had the vapor barrier, the knuckleheads!

One thing you should also do, if you haven't already, is to check your attic access panel for insulation and making sure it has weatherstripping around where it is supported.  Most homes they just use door/window casing trim around the framed opening and let the panel rest on the trim. That will leak a lot of air. All you need is to buy 1 of those $3-$4 packs of weatherstripping and put it around the perimeter where the panel rests and you're good to go. Fwiw, I also pancaked 3 layers of 2"-R10 foam board insulation on top of the access panel. I used that because I had extra from another spot where I  used it (it's not cheap.) But I  think Lowe's sells 2' x 2' sized panels of foam insulation instead of buying 4' x 8' sheets I had. Alternatively, glue or staple a piece of fiberglass insulation on the attic side of the access panel.

Anyway, you can see I  take my heating and cooling bills seriously! :nerdsmiley:

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3 hours ago, mitchnick said:

In the summer, I  find my 2nd floor is no where near as warm, with the 1st floor less noticeable as you would expect. But more noticeable all over the house in the winter, with many areas of my 2nd floor definitely warmer due to apparent lousy job of insulating dating back to original build in 1978. He!!, they originally only had R19 in the attic! At some point, however, the original owners had somebody do a half-azzed job of adding another layer of R19...but the added R19 still had the vapor barrier, the knuckleheads!

One thing you should also do, if you haven't already, is to check your attic access panel for insulation and making sure it has weatherstripping around where it is supported.  Most homes they just use door/window casing trim around the framed opening and let the panel rest on the trim. That will leak a lot of air. All you need is to buy 1 of those $3-$4 packs of weatherstripping and put it around the perimeter where the panel rests and you're good to go. Fwiw, I also pancaked 3 layers of 2"-R10 foam board insulation on top of the access panel. I used that because I had extra from another spot where I  used it (it's not cheap.) But I  think Lowe's sells 2' x 2' sized panels of foam insulation instead of buying 4' x 8' sheets I had. Alternatively, glue or staple a piece of fiberglass insulation on the attic side of the access panel.

Anyway, you can see I  take my heating and cooling bills seriously! :nerdsmiley:

Thanks.  We had one of those free blower tests done by the power company (West Penn Power here...First Energy company) and though I did not have weather stripping on the access door it tested pretty good which surprised me.   The things that did not test good were having the damper on my fireplace open and some of the recessed lighting.   I keep hearing conflicting info on the tax break for putting insultation in.  The government site says it is not refundable, but my CPA says we can still apply it and get a refund so not sure.   I got a $500 rebate from the power company as well.  I am still out 3-4K after the rebates. 

 

Went from less than r19 to r49.

 

 

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4 hours ago, mitchnick said:

In the summer, I  find my 2nd floor is no where near as warm, with the 1st floor less noticeable as you would expect. But more noticeable all over the house in the winter, with many areas of my 2nd floor definitely warmer due to apparent lousy job of insulating dating back to original build in 1978. He!!, they originally only had R19 in the attic! At some point, however, the original owners had somebody do a half-azzed job of adding another layer of R19...but the added R19 still had the vapor barrier, the knuckleheads!

One thing you should also do, if you haven't already, is to check your attic access panel for insulation and making sure it has weatherstripping around where it is supported.  Most homes they just use door/window casing trim around the framed opening and let the panel rest on the trim. That will leak a lot of air. All you need is to buy 1 of those $3-$4 packs of weatherstripping and put it around the perimeter where the panel rests and you're good to go. Fwiw, I also pancaked 3 layers of 2"-R10 foam board insulation on top of the access panel. I used that because I had extra from another spot where I  used it (it's not cheap.) But I  think Lowe's sells 2' x 2' sized panels of foam insulation instead of buying 4' x 8' sheets I had. Alternatively, glue or staple a piece of fiberglass insulation on the attic side of the access panel.

Anyway, you can see I  take my heating and cooling bills seriously! :nerdsmiley:

Thanks.  We had one of those free blower tests done by the power company (West Penn Power here...First Energy company) and though I did not have weather stripping on the access door it tested pretty good which surprised me.   The things that did not test good were having the damper on my fireplace open and some of the recessed lighting.   I keep hearing conflicting info on the tax break for putting insultation in.  The government site says it is not refundable, but my CPA says we can still apply it and get a refund so not sure.   I got a $500 rebate from the power company as well.  I am still out 3-4K after the rebates.   We went from R19 to R49.

 

 

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11 hours ago, Bubbler86 said:

Thanks.  We had one of those free blower tests done by the power company (West Penn Power here...First Energy company) and though I did not have weather stripping on the access door it tested pretty good which surprised me.   The things that did not test good were having the damper on my fireplace open and some of the recessed lighting.   I keep hearing conflicting info on the tax break for putting insultation in.  The government site says it is not refundable, but my CPA says we can still apply it and get a refund so not sure.   I got a $500 rebate from the power company as well.  I am still out 3-4K after the rebates. 

 

Went from less than r19 to r49.

 

 

Here's the Tax link I used. It has an exhaustive list of stuff including insulation. 

https://www.energystar.gov/about/federal-tax-credits/insulation

For the fireplace, you can supposedly find on the internet, though I never looked, a blow up balloon type of thing for your flue that will block all the air loss. It's made to collapse when it reaches a certain temperature in case you forget it's there and light a fire. We never use our fireplace, so I  just took some of that 1/4" foam foundation air seal sold on a roll I had laying around and tucked it under the damper when shut. We don't have any recessed lighting in this house. The only thing I  can't change for a reasonable cost is the chimney for the oil furnace. I know that's a source for heat loss, but I  ain't spending $15k for a new furnace since there's nothing wrong with the unit I  have that was installed in 2018 by the prior owner.

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