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Yesvember or November?


Go Kart Mozart
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16 hours ago, kdxken said:

Yeah , it's just okay firewood. I never cut it. Super heavy when it's green and when it dries not much heat value in it. Although I'm spoiled with locust and red oak.  Better than elm. I wouldn't burn that s*** if I was freezing. Certainly wouldn't process it.

Elmwood produces more warmth when one tries to split it than when it's in the stove.  About the only wood worse is balsam poplar.  In a lunchtime discussion about burning green wood among loggers long ago, one comment was, "You couldn't afford the oil it would take to burn Balm o' Gilead!" 

Two couplets from a poem about firewood:

Elmwood reeks of muck and mold,
Even the very coals are cold.

Ash wood green or ash wood dry,
A king shall warm his slippers by.

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1 hour ago, tamarack said:

Elmwood produces more warmth when one tries to split it than when it's in the stove.  About the only wood worse is balsam poplar.  In a lunchtime discussion about burning green wood among loggers long ago, one comment was, "You couldn't afford the oil it would take to burn Balm o' Gilead!" 

Two couplets from a poem about firewood:

Elmwood reeks of muck and mold,
Even the very coals are cold.

Ash wood green or ash wood dry,
A king shall warm his slippers by.

Our saying was Elm smells like piss.

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29 minutes ago, dryslot said:

I get a blend of oak and beech mainly to burn, But wood is not my main fuel and i only use about a chord/yr to keep the shed warm.

 

IMG_3597.jpg

I love Beech, there's not much to be had around where I live but it's a high BTU wood and nice smooth bark that doesn't leave a mess in the house.

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Just now, DavisStraight said:

I love Beech, there's not much to be had around where I live but it's a high BTU wood and nice smooth bark that doesn't leave a mess in the house.

It does burn hot, Don't need but a couple sticks once i have the old lange stove going to heat a 18'x24' space.

IMG_2417.PNG

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Ash is my dominant burn these days. All summer and fall I sliced and diced a bunch I dragged up from down slope around the ponds. So easy to split too- 16" sticks make short work on my hand splitter. Tractor bucket load a day for 3 months and I'm set with 5 cords in my basement and 1 cord down at the tree house. Harvested 3 of those cords here- about 50/50 maple/ash.

Got a deal on 3 cord of seasoned birch so got 3 cords of that. Birch is mid-soft wood in my book. Burns well and the bark is wonderful good for starter though after October there's no need for starter when the fire is always going in the house.

My hottest burns though are beech and maple. Normal delivered mix up here is 80-85 pct maple w/ remainder birch, beech and ash. Mix varies by woodlot.

Burning ash now down at the tree house. Got a smoker down here that I burn maple in so I use the ash inside and smoke with the maple weekly outside in attached wood/smoke shed I built on this summer. Going through a lot of wood this year I think, but the ribs...

stove.jpg

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26.2F. Speaking of woodstoves, been using a jotul F55 for 10yrs and never seemed to burn as good as I thought it should. Typically the flu temp runs much hotter than stovepipe which is opposite of what should be happening. Also have troubles getting stovetop temps to 400-700 which is optimal. While it does heat the room I think it could be better. I tested the flu draft with digital manometer and it ranged 0.13-0.15 with primary air fully open or closed. Jotul proffered range is 0.050-0.1 with 0.07 being optimal. Was thinking of adding a flu damper, but not not sure if the difference in draft between optimal vs what I'm getting is significant.

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20231129_071510.jpg

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29 minutes ago, Lava Rock said:

26.2F. Speaking of woodstoves, been using a jotul F55 for 10yrs and never seemed to burn as good as I thought it should. Typically the flu temp runs much hotter than stovepipe which is opposite of what should be happening. Also have troubles getting stovetop temps to 400-700 which is optimal. While it does heat the room I think it could be better. I tested the flu draft with digital manometer and it ranged 0.13-0.15 with primary air fully open or closed. Jotul proffered range is 0.050-0.1 with 0.07 being optimal. Was thinking of adding a flu damper, but not not sure if the difference in draft between optimal vs what I'm getting is significant.

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20231129_071510.jpg

Sounds like most of your heat is going out the chimney, No expert but i have a damper and it makes a difference as well as i can adjust the draft on the front of my stove having 2 dials.

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Mountain snow depth went up 11” in the past 24 hours, to 28” settled at 4pm.

Thats pretty solid for an unforecast or overlooked event by those of us who follow this stuff daily.

Last night saw what -12C at 850mb and some frontal pooling can do… plus residual moisture behind the front.

If it’s -12C at the ridges, and the lift is happening just above that (like water flowing over a barrier), the snow growth is optimized in that DGZ of -12C to -16C.  If there’s some moisture, it’ll snow above its weight.

CF8F65C2-6137-4393-88C3-DB201F037618.jpeg.5a90b54ef0a2b1a1179cb08038403d7c.jpeg

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2 hours ago, Lava Rock said:

26.2F. Speaking of woodstoves, been using a jotul F55 for 10yrs and never seemed to burn as good as I thought it should. Typically the flu temp runs much hotter than stovepipe which is opposite of what should be happening. Also have troubles getting stovetop temps to 400-700 which is optimal. While it does heat the room I think it could be better. I tested the flu draft with digital manometer and it ranged 0.13-0.15 with primary air fully open or closed. Jotul proffered range is 0.050-0.1 with 0.07 being optimal. Was thinking of adding a flu damper, but not not sure if the difference in draft between optimal vs what I'm getting is significant.

Sent from my SM-G981U1 using Tapatalk



20231129_071510.jpg

I cut my wood consumption by a quarter after installing a damper. Stove runs much longer on night burns too.

Install a damper.

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On 11/27/2023 at 5:41 PM, CT Rain said:

@OceanStWx needs to get to work on this!

I think we can manually edit the naming convention in the system, but man it picks some random location identifiers sometimes. Like IOSN3 always defaults to 4 ESE of Rye, like just call it Isles of Shoals. And no location ever carries elevation, all that has to be added. What I don't know is if it has to be added each time, or if certain locations can be saved.

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1 hour ago, Lava Rock said:

Any increase in creosote?

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Maybe. NBD though because I clean out my pipes and have the chimney swept annually. Birch is heavy creosote. I burn a real hot fire on occasion to clear the pipes. Never get sparks out the top.

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4 hours ago, Lava Rock said:

Any increase in creosote?

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On occasion, Burn some cardboard in there, That will clean your pipe, If your pipe is that hot, Then your losing all that heat out the pipe instead of keeping it in the stove, You can regulate the pipe temp with the damper as to utilize the stove heat.

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10 hours ago, OceanStWx said:

I think we can manually edit the naming convention in the system, but man it picks some random location identifiers sometimes. Like IOSN3 always defaults to 4 ESE of Rye, like just call it Isles of Shoals. And no location ever carries elevation, all that has to be added. What I don't know is if it has to be added each time, or if certain locations can be saved.

Some sites are far from the named town.  An example is NH-GR-47, Littleton 7.3 W, probably in the next town.  The lack of elevation can be confusing.  I wondered why the Temple observer always had much more snow in marginal events than next-town Farmington or at my place - until I found its elevation was 1,224', about 800' higher than its neighbor's site.

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On 11/29/2023 at 12:28 PM, tamarack said:

Elmwood produces more warmth when one tries to split it than when it's in the stove.  About the only wood worse is balsam poplar.  In a lunchtime discussion about burning green wood among loggers long ago, one comment was, "You couldn't afford the oil it would take to burn Balm o' Gilead!" 

Two couplets from a poem about firewood:

Elmwood reeks of muck and mold,
Even the very coals are cold.

Ash wood green or ash wood dry,
A king shall warm his slippers by.

"Stick to your long-johns until your long-johns stick to you"

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23 hours ago, gonegalt said:

Ash is my dominant burn these days. All summer and fall I sliced and diced a bunch I dragged up from down slope around the ponds. So easy to split too- 16" sticks make short work on my hand splitter. Tractor bucket load a day for 3 months and I'm set with 5 cords in my basement and 1 cord down at the tree house. Harvested 3 of those cords here- about 50/50 maple/ash.

Got a deal on 3 cord of seasoned birch so got 3 cords of that. Birch is mid-soft wood in my book. Burns well and the bark is wonderful good for starter though after October there's no need for starter when the fire is always going in the house.

My hottest burns though are beech and maple. Normal delivered mix up here is 80-85 pct maple w/ remainder birch, beech and ash. Mix varies by woodlot.

Burning ash now down at the tree house. Got a smoker down here that I burn maple in so I use the ash inside and smoke with the maple weekly outside in attached wood/smoke shed I built on this summer. Going through a lot of wood this year I think, but the ribs...

stove.jpg

When you say “hand splitter” do you mean one of those hydraulic ones with the two handles? If so, are you happy with it? Been looking at those for a couple of years.

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