Met Summer Banter

[mreaves]

Drive through Lake George, NY on the way home this afternoon. The gypsy moths have really done a job in that area. Looks like spring before leaf out. 

[TauntonBlizzard2013]

5 minutes ago, mreaves said:

So if your portion was 20%, you were paying $240 every other week?

It’s 25% 75% and I am paying $330 every other week 

[mreaves]

39 minutes ago, TauntonBlizzard2013 said:

It’s 25% 75% and I am paying $330 every other week 

Think about that, they were paying the additional $900.  It's crazy

[TauntonBlizzard2013]

37 minutes ago, mreaves said:

Think about that, they were paying the additional $900.  It's crazy

Right…. The costs are stupid… it’s so bad. I don’t have that kind of money laying around to do Cobra. My options are to just go without for 2 months and get cobra if something happens, or get mass health 

[TauntonBlizzard2013]

I might as well just come out with it. I’m taking a state job. I’m stunned they have a waiting period. It creates such a hassle for anyone making the move to them 

[HoarfrostHubb]

Fireworks back at WDW.   That’s good to see

[backedgeapproaching]

3 hours ago, mreaves said:

Drive through Lake George, NY on the way home this afternoon. The gypsy moths have really done a job in that area. Looks like spring before leaf out. 

I have some friends with a place on Lake George, was up there about 5-6 weeks ago and the house was covered in caterpillars, just crawling everywhere on everything.

30 mins NW of here in extreme western VT at my sister in law's also seeing some damage and good amount of caterpillars at her house as well. Haven't seen any locally or noticed any issue, but feel like it's only a matter of time.

[Ginx snewx]

1 hour ago, TauntonBlizzard2013 said:

I might as well just come out with it. I’m taking a state job. I’m stunned they have a waiting period. It creates such a hassle for anyone making the move to them 

What do you do?

[dendrite]

So a question about my refrigerator...

I noticed the other day the fresh food portion was freezing all of my food (freezer is on bottom). I noticed the fridge is permanently running. I cleaned it out underneath and made sure the coils weren't frozen...check. I made sure the fan was running and pulling heat away from the compressor...check.

However the damper in the fridge was permanently open. I took it apart tonight and it's a simple mechanical damper with thermistor.

So I'm assuming this part failed. Either the damper physically broke or something failed with the thermistor. My question is, would this possibly cause the compressor to keep running and cold air to keep blowing? With the damper permanently open I would think it would still get cold enough to stop kicking the compressor on and blowing cold air. But if the thermistor is fried it may be thinking it's continuously too warm in there and the damper stays open and compressor keeps running? I just figured the compressor ran based on a thermistor in the freezer portion and not the fridge part, but I'm not exactly an expert with these things. I thought maybe someone here has an idea and could help. It's an older Maytag, but it's a Whirlpool part too.

 

edit...just turned up the setting on the freezer and the compressor and blower kicked off. So maybe that's running normal and there's just too much cold air escaping into the fridge part forcing it to keep running?

[DavisStraight]

57 minutes ago, dendrite said:

So a question about my refrigerator...

I noticed the other day the fresh food portion was freezing all of my food (freezer is on bottom). I noticed the fridge is permanently running. I cleaned it out underneath and made sure the coils weren't frozen...check. I made sure the fan was running and pulling heat away from the compressor...check.

However the damper in the fridge was permanently open. I took it apart tonight and it's a simple mechanical damper with thermistor.

So I'm assuming this part failed. Either the damper physically broke or something failed with the thermistor. My question is, would this possibly cause the compressor to keep running and cold air to keep blowing? With the damper permanently open I would think it would still get cold enough to stop kicking the compressor on and blowing cold air. But if the thermistor is fried it may be thinking it's continuously too warm in there and the damper stays open and compressor keeps running? I just figured the compressor ran based on a thermistor in the freezer portion and not the fridge part, but I'm not exactly an expert with these things. I thought maybe someone here has an idea and could help. It's an older Maytag, but it's a Whirlpool part too.

 

edit...just turned up the setting on the freezer and the compressor and blower kicked off. So maybe that's running normal and there's just too much cold air escaping into the fridge part forcing it to keep running?

Did you make sure under the fridge is clean and no dust or pet fur? Happened to us once but I just called the fridge repair guy to fix it since it was under warranty, damned if I remember what he did though.

[TauntonBlizzard2013]

2 hours ago, Ginx snewx said:

What do you do?

I’m going to be working with the state reclamation board. Mosquito control project.

[Ginx snewx]

6 hours ago, TauntonBlizzard2013 said:

I’m going to be working with the state reclamation board. Mosquito control project.

Nice best of luck

[STILL N OF PIKE]

Car died while driving yesterday . Had no issues with my car (2013 optima ) prior . 125K miles . Had a oil leak apparently and oil was extremely low . A seized engine would be just what I need . 

[mreaves]

On 6/11/2021 at 2:55 PM, MacChump said:

https://gypsyguide.com/tour/yellowstone-national-park/

this is the one we used...my girls named the dude Fred

@MacChump I can't thank you enough for this recommendation.  I bought the Yellowstone/Teton tour and the Black Hills/Badlands tour.  They were great.  I can't think of a better way to go short of getting on a guided tour.

[Typhoon Tip]

52 minutes ago, STILL N OF PIKE said:

Car died while driving yesterday . Had no issues with my car (2013 optima ) prior . 125K miles . Had a oil leak apparently and oil was extremely low . A seized engine would be just what I need . 

It may just be a safety for low oil pressure/detection and having tripped some internal kill switch. 

Which of course if true ... that would require 900 $ to eviscerate the engine to find and reverse the switch. Plus whatever it costs to fix the oil leak.  Parts and expenditure et al ...prolly talking 1300 minimum, or roughly 4 months worth of auto-payments ... hmm

If that can be afforded at all, I might compare how much you had left on the loan, vs the consumer reports/facts about that make and model's longevity/ end life extension costs. My bet, ain't worth it.   Just use that money for a down payment. But that also means, the car industry wins. 

Our society, especially wrt to cars, is a throw-away based economic model - they don't want you to fix or conserve and extend. The entire industry is based upon an assumption of endless resources feeding the manufacturing end; then, with an illusion that cars have to be owned to survive modes and ambitions,  inherently every aspect is stacked in favor to getting onto a new loan plan for a reason

Probably I'm guessing the car was paid off ?  In which case that's the rub - you don't get a free car any more .. which is what major car manufactures hate.  That's why it is cripples you to fix these things.  Few other factors of course... J.Q. Mechanic needs his greed too -

 

[weatherwiz]

Bufkit is pissing me off. On one computer it keeps re-setting the Momentum Xfer option to 30 and on another computer it re-sets it to 1. WHY??????? 

[STILL N OF PIKE]

34 minutes ago, Typhoon Tip said:

It may just be a safety for low oil pressure/detection and having tripped some internal kill switch. 

Which of course if true ... that would require 900 $ to eviscerate the engine to find and reverse the switch. Plus whatever it costs to fix the oil leak.  Parts and expenditure et al ...prolly talking 1300 minimum, or roughly 4 months worth of auto-payments ... hmm

If that can be afforded at all, I might compare how much you had left on the loan, vs the consumer reports/facts about that make and model's longevity/ end life extension costs. My bet, ain't worth it.   Just use that money for a down payment. But that also means, the car industry wins. 

Our society, especially wrt to cars, is a throw-away based economic model - they don't want you to fix or conserve and extend. The entire industry is based upon an assumption of endless resources feeding the manufacturing end; then, with an illusion that cars have to be owned to survive modes and ambitions,  inherently every aspect is stacked in favor to getting onto a new loan plan for a reason

Probably I'm guessing the car was paid off ?  In which case that's the rub - you don't get a free car any more .. which is what major car manufactures hate.  That's why it is cripples you to fix these things.  Few other factors of course... J.Q. Mechanic needs his greed too -

 

Getting it looked at is also nearly impossible today and this weekend , so that’s fun 

[HIPPYVALLEY]

1 hour ago, STILL N OF PIKE said:

Car died while driving yesterday . Had no issues with my car (2013 optima ) prior . 125K miles . Had a oil leak apparently and oil was extremely low . A seized engine would be just what I need . 

That sucks, I’m sorry to hear that.  Perhaps as Tip said it might’ve been a safety kill feature.  
honestly, to me an eight year old car is not that old especially with only 125K on it.

If the engine did seize, replacing the engine is certainly cheaper than buying a new car if the rest of it is in good shape.

[BrianW]

1 hour ago, STILL N OF PIKE said:

Car died while driving yesterday . Had no issues with my car (2013 optima ) prior . 125K miles . Had a oil leak apparently and oil was extremely low . A seized engine would be just what I need . 

Did the oil light come on? Does it turn over now and run? Could also be a snapped timing belt. 

[Typhoon Tip]

12 hours ago, dendrite said:

So a question about my refrigerator...

I noticed the other day the fresh food portion was freezing all of my food (freezer is on bottom). I noticed the fridge is permanently running. I cleaned it out underneath and made sure the coils weren't frozen...check. I made sure the fan was running and pulling heat away from the compressor...check.

However the damper in the fridge was permanently open. I took it apart tonight and it's a simple mechanical damper with thermistor.

So I'm assuming this part failed. Either the damper physically broke or something failed with the thermistor. My question is, would this possibly cause the compressor to keep running and cold air to keep blowing? With the damper permanently open I would think it would still get cold enough to stop kicking the compressor on and blowing cold air. But if the thermistor is fried it may be thinking it's continuously too warm in there and the damper stays open and compressor keeps running? I just figured the compressor ran based on a thermistor in the freezer portion and not the fridge part, but I'm not exactly an expert with these things. I thought maybe someone here has an idea and could help. It's an older Maytag, but it's a Whirlpool part too.

 

edit...just turned up the setting on the freezer and the compressor and blower kicked off. So maybe that's running normal and there's just too much cold air escaping into the fridge part forcing it to keep running?

Funny ...I had a refrigerator crisis earlier this week, too -

My situation was a bit less complicated.  It turned out to be hoarfrost and ice build up around the radiator coils. It was also packing into the duct that feeds the lower/main part of the refrigerator - it was clogged like a heart artery in WV with frost that was so dense it was partially ice - weird, almost styrofoam consistency stuff. 

It was long about Monday, some three days into the warm episode and nearing 97 that afternoon, when I noticed my two liter of Polar Spring ginger ale had beads of sweat and felt mild to the touch.  In fact, the grated cheddar cheese was soft, too soft - like, "is this f'n melting?".  And other left overs were beginning to 'radiate' if you get my meaning.  "Ew - what is this?" 

The meats in the top load freezer compartment were cold to the touch, but had thawed - unfrozen... fish too.

The frig had taking to a loud buzzing sound the two days before, but I thought it was just maybe struggling ...what with 97/74 averaged across my towns home weather stations, etc.    Basically I had to toss everything, over 100 bucks worth of perishables.  Cleaned it out for start, then ...started unscrewing metal and plastic parts ... I worked my way to find the above issues. Those clogs were stressing the fan, most likely ...so it was 'clicking', hence the buzzing..

I don't know how or why this thing chose when it did, to do this, but it never had in 10 years since I moved in - it was here when I got here ..who knows how old it is. I'm guessin' 25 years. It has an early .. mid '90s vibe about it. Live and learn - I made it to middle age without ever thinking about having to maintenance a fridge - I'm not sure one really has to?  I never saw a parent or relative or heard of anyone having to eviscerate their appliance in that way but ..oh well -

It's been bugging me to replace it.  The thing is always running. The white factory paint has long failed and is crisscross with rusty marks and other stains that won't clean - kinda like the back-drop on an episode of "Vice" where is interviewing some meth user's kitchen.  Heh.  Between poor energy efficiency and aesthetics, I consider this whole ordeal a 'shot across the bow' - and went out and purchased a new Energy Start prorated new one.  F if won't be delivered for a week.  It was still Monday... forecast was high 90s, and at the time, this kind of autumn in July weekend was not yet predicted, so..  I was able to get this one back from the dead by thawing out all those coils and liberating them of their glacial load, and clear the cold duct clog... These compartments started cooling again, so at least I don't have to live out of a cooler - which is a pain in the "ice"     But still, it is always running unless I turn the dial below the "Normal" setting, which is useless.  I think it is just so old that it leaks just enough.  Probably also not the best design.  A lot of the 'charm' of this house I have found over the years, is that it was typical bubble-gum and band-aid cheaply fixed and or "updated" using end-around means over the years that are ( sorry a reality here, not a judgement) typical in lower income rural settings. Ha. Nothing wrong with that. 

It wouldn't surprise me if this fridge had some history with a Sling Blade cracker-jack fixer who jerried it because 1980s Ayer owners couldn't afford new appliances.     My fault - I shoulda replaced this years ago.  I'm sure if had a boobs and a gyna-wedge walking around in here, she woulda forced me to do so - bachelor dudes don't tend to give a shyte until they half too - LOL ...  sorta kidding

[BrianW]

12 hours ago, dendrite said:

So a question about my refrigerator...

I noticed the other day the fresh food portion was freezing all of my food (freezer is on bottom). I noticed the fridge is permanently running. I cleaned it out underneath and made sure the coils weren't frozen...check. I made sure the fan was running and pulling heat away from the compressor...check.

However the damper in the fridge was permanently open. I took it apart tonight and it's a simple mechanical damper with thermistor.

So I'm assuming this part failed. Either the damper physically broke or something failed with the thermistor. My question is, would this possibly cause the compressor to keep running and cold air to keep blowing? With the damper permanently open I would think it would still get cold enough to stop kicking the compressor on and blowing cold air. But if the thermistor is fried it may be thinking it's continuously too warm in there and the damper stays open and compressor keeps running? I just figured the compressor ran based on a thermistor in the freezer portion and not the fridge part, but I'm not exactly an expert with these things. I thought maybe someone here has an idea and could help. It's an older Maytag, but it's a Whirlpool part too.

 

edit...just turned up the setting on the freezer and the compressor and blower kicked off. So maybe that's running normal and there's just too much cold air escaping into the fridge part forcing it to keep running?

That part also contains the temperature sensor as you can see the wound coil temp sensor on it. Its probably bad and I would replace it. Almost all fridges use the fridge section for temp control. That part is available on eBay pretty cheap. 

Most of the time the issues with a basic fridge is that temp sensor or the compressor relay.  There really isn't much to them and generally the compressors can last a long time as long as they don't leak.

Also, if you don't have central AC and your kitchen is like 80+ degrees your fridge is going to run like crazy. I have an electricity monitor on my house and have been away and set my central air to like 82 and saw it runs like twice as long. 

[tamarack]

26 minutes ago, BrianW said:

Did the oil light come on? Does it turn over now and run? Could also be a snapped timing belt. 

Timing belt goes and it's all stop.  We had that phenomenon 3 times with our used Subaru Loyales.  First time it was at 59k (Manual said replace at 60) and furtunately my wife was on the 400' development road and coasted into the driveway.  2nd time, at 117k(!) was not as happy - was on 295 in Freeport and my wife had to climb over the wire cattle fence that the Feds (I guess) mandate along interstates, so she could borrow a phone to call AAA.  (Obviously pre-cell)  When that rig got to 170 we were able to actually drive it to the shop.  Traded the car at 205k - still running well but AC died in early August 2002, just prior to 8 days of high 80s/low 90s.  The replacement had 59k and we specifically asked about the timing belt, answer was "just got replaced".  25k later it broke a half mile from our house.  My daughter hoofed it back home and I then towed it a mile to our regular mechanic place.  They were totally confident the belt had been the original, made us feel good all over.  Not the only time we've been lied to at an auto dealer. 

[MacChump]

1 hour ago, mreaves said:

@MacChump I can't thank you enough for this recommendation.  I bought the Yellowstone/Teton tour and the Black Hills/Badlands tour.  They were great.  I can't think of a better way to go short of getting on a guided tour.

glad you found it useful, sounds like you had a great trip!

[mreaves]

1 hour ago, STILL N OF PIKE said:

Getting it looked at is also nearly impossible today and this weekend , so that’s fun 

I'm sure car rental rates are reasonable too. 

[STILL N OF PIKE]

1 hour ago, BrianW said:

Did the oil light come on? Does it turn over now and run? Could also be a snapped timing belt. 

Oil light had been off and on for over a week.

The car won’t turn over , engine won’t make a peep. No power to Engine . No noise , no clicks .

Car electricity will turn on , radio, lights, ac. 
 

There was no shaking , stuttering , pinging or any noise prior to the car dying . I gave it more acceleration  than usual (But nothing wild ) when I left getting snacks at a store and two hundred yards later the car engine just stopped (quietly ) . At the time engine died the battery , oil and engine light lit up on dashboard then engine died )

[natedizel]

3 minutes ago, STILL N OF PIKE said:

Oil light had been off and on for over a week.

The car won’t turn over , engine won’t make a peep. No power to Engine . No noise , no clicks .

Car electricity will turn on , radio, lights, ac. 
 

There was no shaking , stuttering , pinging or any noise prior to the car dying . I gave it more acceleration  than usual (But nothing wild ) when I left getting snacks at a store and two hundred yards later the car engine just stopped (quietly ) . At the time engine died the battery , oil and engine light lit up on dashboard then engine died )

Whats you oil level right now?

[BrianW]

10 minutes ago, STILL N OF PIKE said:

Oil light had been off and on for over a week.

The car won’t turn over , engine won’t make a peep. No power to Engine . No noise , no clicks .

Car electricity will turn on , radio, lights, ac. 
 

There was no shaking , stuttering , pinging or any noise prior to the car dying . I gave it more acceleration  than usual (But nothing wild ) when I left getting snacks at a store and two hundred yards later the car engine just stopped (quietly ) . At the time engine died the battery , oil and engine light lit up on dashboard then engine died )

The oil light comes one when oil pressure drops to basically zero.  People often confuse the oil light thinking its the oil level and its just low. It's a pressure sensor that turns on when you have no oil pressure in the engine.  If you were driving for a week with it on and off the engine is most likely seized.

 

[STILL N OF PIKE]

22 minutes ago, BrianW said:

The oil light comes one when oil pressure drops to basically zero.  People often confuse the oil light thinking its the oil level and its just low. It's a pressure sensor that turns on when you have no oil pressure in the engine.  If you were driving for a week with it on and off the engine is most likely seized.

 

Mechanic is looking at it this afternoon, so we shall see 

[natedizel]

1 minute ago, STILL N OF PIKE said:

Mechanic is looking at it this afternoon, so we shall see 

Good luck. As hippy valley said earlier. If the rest of the car is in good shape it might be worth replacing engine if thats the problem. 

[HoarfrostHubb]

33 minutes ago, BrianW said:

The oil light comes one when oil pressure drops to basically zero.  People often confuse the oil light thinking its the oil level and its just low. It's a pressure sensor that turns on when you have no oil pressure in the engine.  If you were driving for a week with it on and off the engine is most likely seized.

 

I had a scare with my 2018 Mazda CX-5.  What I thought was the oil pressure light would come on and off (after I had an oil change).  
I had plenty of oil.

Turns out it was the oil temp sensor light.   Same symbol, but a different color.
 I had a small oil pan gasket leak and some of the oil had dropped onto the sensor.  Quick (and cheap) fix