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At Least The 12th Lawn Thread


Damage In Tolland
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45 minutes ago, Supernovice said:

When are you guys doing fall fert and seed? Thinking this week...am I too early?

What's up w/ that de-thatcher? I rented one from HD when I was trying to save my previous lawn- what a pain in the ass. That for fall use? Do you use it every yr?

Definitely not too early for seed.  I reseeded some areas 3 weeks ago and have mowed them 2 times already.  You can start doing fert apps too.

Want to make sure your seed gets down to the soil, why I commented on Bobs post about the nice seed bed.

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42 minutes ago, Supernovice said:

When are you guys doing fall fert and seed? Thinking this week...am I too early?

What's up w/ that de-thatcher? I rented one from HD when I was trying to save my previous lawn- what a pain in the ass. That for fall use? Do you use it every yr?

Overseed now.  You need ~45 days for the roots to establish before frost/freeze.  That puts you into mid-Oct now, which is probably after your 1st frost.  Dethatching is a must for overseeding.  You want to clear as much debris as you can to expose the soil below.  Without good soil contact/cover, you risk the seed washing/blowing away and taking longer to germinate.  The dethatchers you rent are scarifiers, that will also open up the soil for the seed to drop into.  I also recommend running the dethatcher after seeding to cover the seed.  Make sure to use a new seed fertilizer.  And lastly, water, water, water the new seed.  2-3 times a day lightly at first to keep soil/seed moist.  After it's germinated you can go longer/deeper and further between with watering.

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7 minutes ago, backedgeapproaching said:

That was a nice a seed bed you had prepped with the dethatching, definitely going to get better and quicker germination than the "spread it and forget it" method.

Yeah,  it takes longer but the results should be better.  I'll probably do another overseed next year.  I still have the other parts of my lawn that will need to be done next year once the contractors are all done.  I still don't have a game plan on what will be lawn vs what will be garden beds.

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6 minutes ago, Baroclinic Zone said:

Overseed now.  You need ~45 days for the roots to establish before frost/freeze.  That puts you into mid-Oct now, which is probably after your 1st frost.  Dethatching is a must for overseeding.  You want to clear as much debris as you can to expose the soil below.  Without good soil contact/cover, you risk the seed washing/blowing away and taking longer to germinate.  The dethatchers you rent are scarifiers, that will also open up the soil for the seed to drop into.  I also recommend running the dethatcher after seeding to cover the seed.  Make sure to use a new seed fertilizer.  And lastly, water, water, water the new seed.  2-3 times a day lightly at first to keep soil/seed moist.  After it's germinated you can go longer/deeper and further between with watering.

Yep, exactly.  The prep is what takes longer and is most of your time and effort, but worth it in the long run.

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Just now, amarshall said:

He used Lesco Metro and I supplemented with Lesco Parks mix. 

50% Turf-type perennial Ryegrass, 20% Kentucky Bluegrass, 15% creeping red fescue, 15% Chewings fescue

34% Turf - Type Perennial Ryegrass, 33% Fine Fescues, 33% Shamrock KBG

 

So the Rye, will likely be the first to germinate.  The Bluegrass may take 2-3 weeks.  The Fescue will be a little less than that.

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3 minutes ago, Baroclinic Zone said:

50% Turf-type perennial Ryegrass, 20% Kentucky Bluegrass, 15% creeping red fescue, 15% Chewings fescue

34% Turf - Type Perennial Ryegrass, 33% Fine Fescues, 33% Shamrock KBG

 

So the Rye, will likely be the first to germinate.  The Bluegrass may take 2-3 weeks.  The Fescue will be a little less than that.

Ryegrass should be 4-5 days..its super quick, the bluegrass is really slow and even when it does come up, it barely grows for another week or two.  Hope for a warm fall for the Bluegrass to fully establish.

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Didn't realize that cheap Kentucky Bluegrass sod is a available here. The place I got it said there is a bunch of sod farms in CT, MA and RI. The sod I got had come in that morning from RI. Each 5x2 10 sqft piece was $6 so .60 sqft.

We had a paver patio put in and it cost me less than $100 to instantly have nice lush weed free grass around it. Definitely worth it over dealing with germinating seeds and all the weeds. 

 

Screenshot-20210921-062910-Gallery.jpg

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36 minutes ago, CoastalWx said:

You aerate then overseed correct? I have a areas where I want to spread a mix of dirt and peat with the seed, but think I should spread dirt first, aerate, then seed? Otherwise spread dirt over the plug holes defeats the purpose.

Cut lawn low(almost scalped), dethatch, aerate, than overseed.  You want to expose as much soil as you can to give the seed as much soil contact as possible.  As long as you don't cover the seed more than 1/4" with the topsoil/peat, you should be good.  The sees should be raked in.

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3 hours ago, BrianW said:

Didn't realize that cheap Kentucky Bluegrass sod is a available here. The place I got it said there is a bunch of sod farms in CT, MA and RI. The sod I got had come in that morning from RI. Each 5x2 10 sqft piece was $6 so .60 sqft.

We had a paver patio put in and it cost me less than $100 to instantly have nice lush weed free grass around it. Definitely worth it over dealing with germinating seeds and all the weeds. 

 

Screenshot-20210921-062910-Gallery.jpg

Nice.  If it gets a lot of sun, and you're not getting rain, make sure you soak the hell out of it every morning.

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1 minute ago, TauntonBlizzard2013 said:

Your lawn posts are a trip. Everything that can go wrong, does 

Too many chems screwing up the soil microbiome? My lawn will form puddles, but I’ve never had anything like that here. The only thing I’ve put on the lawn in 10 years is that coop poop fertilizer and a little lime. 

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