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Summer 2020 Banter and random observations


Baroclinic Zone
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So I’m looking to buy a northern red oak.... my front yard has only flowering pear trees... which seem to have a cap in growth and grow pretty narrow.

the neighborhood doesn’t have many trees and I’d like to plant something out front that can get pretty big and offer some shade and cover to the house.

Whats the root system like? My idea planting spot is about 20 feet from road... 25 feet from house... and about 25 feet away from my well head. Should I be okay there?

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6 minutes ago, TauntonBlizzard2013 said:

So I’m looking to buy a northern red oak.... my front yard has only flowering pear trees... which seem to have a cap in growth and grow pretty narrow.

the neighborhood doesn’t have many trees and I’d like to plant something out front that can get pretty big and offer some shade and cover to the house.

Whats the root system like? My idea planting spot is about 20 feet from road... 25 feet from house... and about 25 feet away from my well head. Should I be okay there?

I can send you a crap load of red oak acorns. ;)

You really want big oaks dropping acorns and branches that close to your house?

Initially they put down a deep tap root and growth can be slow the first few years. Then they start to take off. A mature tree can put out roots well beyond its drip line. Potted trees that normally put down a deep taproot tend to be hard to transplant since they don't get to set that taproot first.

I think the tap root trees would be your best bet, preferably from seed, although I'm sure you don't want to wait that long. So any nut type tree basically...oak, black walnut, hardy pecan, shagbark or shellbark hickory, chestnut, etc. You mostly want to stay away from trees that really search out water...like elm, willow, silver maple, etc.

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9 minutes ago, dendrite said:

I can send you a crap load of red oak acorns. ;)

You really want big oaks dropping acorns and branches that close to your house?

Initially they put down a deep tap root and growth can be slow the first few years. Then they start to take off. A mature tree can put out roots well beyond its drip line. Potted trees that normally put down a deep taproot tend to be hard to transplant since they don't get to set that taproot first.

I think the tap root trees would be your best bet, preferably from seed, although I'm sure you don't want to wait that long. So any nut type tree basically...oak, black walnut, hardy pecan, shagbark or shellbark hickory, chestnut, etc. You mostly want to stay away from trees that really search out water...like elm, willow, silver maple, etc.

I'm with you on the oak. How about a nice beech? 

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15 minutes ago, dendrite said:

I can send you a crap load of red oak acorns. ;)

You really want big oaks dropping acorns and branches that close to your house?

Initially they put down a deep tap root and growth can be slow the first few years. Then they start to take off. A mature tree can put out roots well beyond its drip line. Potted trees that normally put down a deep taproot tend to be hard to transplant since they don't get to set that taproot first.

I think the tap root trees would be your best bet, preferably from seed, although I'm sure you don't want to wait that long. So any nut type tree basically...oak, black walnut, hardy pecan, shagbark or shellbark hickory, chestnut, etc. You mostly want to stay away from trees that really search out water...like elm, willow, silver maple, etc.

I’ll probably be long gone by the time it reaches mature height to do damage ;).

But in all seriousness, I’m really open to anything that can get somewhat big and won’t search out water. 
 

ive been told to stay away from willows like you mentioned... but most folks I talk to say plant really anything else as close as you want to the well... just leave access for maintenance.

I like to be a little more conscious than that, and probably wouldn’t plant a tree 2 feet away... but I’ve seen plenty of wells among a lot of really good sized trees.

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1 hour ago, TauntonBlizzard2013 said:

I’ll probably be long gone by the time it reaches mature height to do damage ;).

But in all seriousness, I’m really open to anything that can get somewhat big and won’t search out water. 
 

ive been told to stay away from willows like you mentioned... but most folks I talk to say plant really anything else as close as you want to the well... just leave access for maintenance.

I like to be a little more conscious than that, and probably wouldn’t plant a tree 2 feet away... but I’ve seen plenty of wells among a lot of really good sized trees.

We once planted a willow at my parents house back in 2000...big mistake. The thing guzzled water like an American pickup guzzles gas. My mom sold the house after my dad died in 2015 but I’m always curious how it looks now...did the new owners feed it or eventually get pissed and chop it down ha. 

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9 hours ago, TauntonBlizzard2013 said:

I’ll probably be long gone by the time it reaches mature height to do damage ;).

But in all seriousness, I’m really open to anything that can get somewhat big and won’t search out water. 
 

ive been told to stay away from willows like you mentioned... but most folks I talk to say plant really anything else as close as you want to the well... just leave access for maintenance.

I like to be a little more conscious than that, and probably wouldn’t plant a tree 2 feet away... but I’ve seen plenty of wells among a lot of really good sized trees.

Maybe a red maple?  Lots of seeds in spring but they're small and soft - a mulching mower would take care of them.  Unbeatable fall color, will grow reasonably well on low-fertility soils and fast on good dirt, not a major sewer-line chaser.  Doesn't like salt but more tolerant of it than sugar maple.

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1 hour ago, dendrite said:

He just got a red maple so I figured he wanted something different for variety. 
 

How are tulip trees wrt roots? Those are fast growing and showy when they bloom.

 

11 hours ago, TauntonBlizzard2013 said:

I’ll probably be long gone by the time it reaches mature height to do damage ;).

But in all seriousness, I’m really open to anything that can get somewhat big and won’t search out water. 
 

ive been told to stay away from willows like you mentioned... but most folks I talk to say plant really anything else as close as you want to the well... just leave access for maintenance.

I like to be a little more conscious than that, and probably wouldn’t plant a tree 2 feet away... but I’ve seen plenty of wells among a lot of really good sized trees.

What about a white ash? or hemlock? Trees that are threatened, but you could spray to keep the legacy going. 

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2 hours ago, dendrite said:

He just got a red maple so I figured he wanted something different for variety. 
 

How are tulip trees wrt roots? Those are fast growing and showy when they bloom.

They're an upland species and those rarely cause root/pipe issues.  One of the fastest growing hardwood trees and can attain very large size even in Maine, which is north of their native range.  The one in Farmington is 30"+ diameter and 75-80 feet tall.  One in Topsham near the 201/24 intersection is more like 40" and 90 feet.  Historically, tulip poplar was one of the very few species that could approach white pine for the tallest Eastern tree.  Fall color is an okay yellow, not great but would be a nice contrast with the red maple (that I had forgotten he had planted.)

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3 minutes ago, PhineasC said:

We have tons of huge tulip poplars in MD and most folks down here hate them. Just a different perspective.

They can be a little sappy and drop some branches at maturity, but I think it’ll be awhile before he has to worry about that. They’re less messy than catalpa although I’m growing both from seed right now. 

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16 minutes ago, dendrite said:

They can be a little sappy and drop some branches at maturity, but I think it’ll be awhile before he has to worry about that. They’re less messy than catalpa although I’m growing both from seed right now. 

I don’t have much experience with them when young. More rural developments in MD tend to have clusters of very tall older specimens because they grow fast and dominate first after the land is returned from being farmland. There are many backyards in central MD that have several trees well over a hundred feet, many of which grew at dangerous angles to get out from under older trees that shaded them. I swear these damn things are dropping crap all year. They also like to shed branches from way up top that come down like spears and impale in the ground. It’s kind of a despised tree around  my old stomping grounds. Also sucks as firewood. I have heard when they are young they can have a nice full look and be more manageable. 

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Just now, PhineasC said:

I don’t have much experience with them when young. More rural developments in MD tend to have clusters of very tall older specimens because they grow fast and dominate first after the land is returned from being farmland. There are many backyards in central MD that have several trees well over a hundred feet, many of which grew at dangerous angles to get out from under older trees that shaded them. I swear these damn things are dropping crap all year. They also like to shed branches from way up top that come down like spears and impale in the ground. It’s kind of a despised tree around  my old stomping grounds. Also sucks as firewood. I have heard when they are young they can have a nice full look and be more manageable. 

It may grow more full and less upward if it's all by itself out front in his yard as well. I believe his neighborhood is pretty much tree free.

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5 minutes ago, dendrite said:

It may grow more full and less upward if it's all by itself out front in his yard as well. I believe his neighborhood is pretty much tree free.

I could see it being fine as a stand-alone shade tree. They provide plenty of shade. They also spread fast. I remember at my old place there would be small trees growing all over the place not mowed every early summer. 

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9 minutes ago, PhineasC said:

I don’t have much experience with them when young. More rural developments in MD tend to have clusters of very tall older specimens because they grow fast and dominate first after the land is returned from being farmland. There are many backyards in central MD that have several trees well over a hundred feet, many of which grew at dangerous angles to get out from under older trees that shaded them. I swear these damn things are dropping crap all year. They also like to shed branches from way up top that come down like spears and impale in the ground. It’s kind of a despised tree around  my old stomping grounds. Also sucks as firewood. I have heard when they are young they can have a nice full look and be more manageable. 

We have a couple huge ones towering over our cabin in NW NJ. We had a branch come down and spear our roof during Isaias. Right now they are dropping those pods like crazy. I was there this past weekend and all night they were dropping on the roof. 

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6 minutes ago, BrianW said:

We have a couple huge ones towering over our cabin in NW NJ. We had a branch come down and spear our roof during Isaias. Right now they are dropping those pods like crazy. I was there this past weekend and all night they were dropping on the roof. 

Many years ago (mid-50s) I attended summer camp in western Morris County, a YMCA place called Camp Morris.  Weather permitting, they held the Sunday service in a grove of tall (especially to 9-10 year-olds) tulip poplars.  Memories get fuzzy after 65 years, but those trees were probably 20-30" diameter with clean trunks up to 40-50 feet or more and who knows how tall - could not see the tops.  Like being within a bunch of huge columns.  Not many in the woods where we lived in northern Morris, mostly oaks, maples and black birch except for younger stands, which had a whole different suite of species.

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1 hour ago, tamarack said:

They're an upland species and those rarely cause root/pipe issues.  One of the fastest growing hardwood trees and can attain very large size even in Maine, which is north of their native range.  The one in Farmington is 30"+ diameter and 75-80 feet tall.  One in Topsham near the 201/24 intersection is more like 40" and 90 feet.  Historically, tulip poplar was one of the very few species that could approach white pine for the tallest Eastern tree.  Fall color is an okay yellow, not great but would be a nice contrast with the red maple (that I had forgotten he had planted.)

 

31 minutes ago, dendrite said:

It may grow more full and less upward if it's all by itself out front in his yard as well. I believe his neighborhood is pretty much tree free.

 

18 minutes ago, PhineasC said:

Yup, sounds familiar. 

So attached is a picture my neighbor took during the storm a few nights ago. My house is on the far right of the pic.

Where I highlighted yellow is roughly where I’d like the tree to go. Distances are tough to judge... but it’s about 20 feet in all directions from the road, we’ll head, and house. Water mine from well runs near the area about 10-12 feet underground, but not directly where tree would be.

It would be the only large tree in the area.

920E29C9-2435-4968-8CCF-16467307F0FB.jpeg

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Just now, TauntonBlizzard2013 said:

 

 

So attached is a picture my neighbor took during the storm a few nights ago. My house is on the far right of the pic.

Where I highlighted yellow is roughly where I’d like the tree to go. Distances are tough to judge... but it’s about 20 feet in all directions from the road, we’ll head, and house. Water mine from well runs near the area about 10-12 feet underground, but not directly where tree would be.

It would be the only large tree in the area.

920E29C9-2435-4968-8CCF-16467307F0FB.jpeg

Your neighbor appears to be practicing with Photoshop. LOL

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