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July pattern(s) and discussion


Typhoon Tip
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Mid and high level deck has slabbed rapidly away off the east coast of Massachusetts and will up in Maine as the noon hour approaches... We are left in a bacon  ( ASOS 'BKN'/broken) heh.. but with a WNW odd warm sector wind vector ... we may see some subsidence help and together with the hot sun ... 

The T1 temp in the NAM has been insisting on a 28 C at Logan between 18 and 00z ... which usually is good for 32 C in the 2-meter... That seems pricey at the moment but... I have managed to squeeze my own temp to 76 F despite the murk ... It's probably the sultriest sensible condition thus far I've personally sensed this season, btw...  

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50 minutes ago, dryslot said:

Yes, Then same idea, This is what the inside of the container looks like, The tray sits 6" above the bottom so that is all water below there, You pack those two pieces of drain pipe with soil in the container, That's the wicking part, I also have a drain hole on the outside of the containe at just under 6" so the water never gets above that level, This pic is about a week or so after planting.

 

Container1.JPG

 

 

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17 minutes ago, dendrite said:

 

I've heard of r-g system/hydration ... 

My bro-in-law in fact, barrel-stows rain water that falls off the roof, into the eave, then down the spout and stuff... Even installed a spigot to modulate the flow rate out the bottom of said barrel(s) in parallel, grav assisted, into one of those hoses that sweats water through.  It keeps his watering budget, both time and money, in check... 

But my question is, is that safe chemically?  

It's probably fine ... but, shingles don't occur in nature, naturally ...  Some roofs are slate and those do occur in nature, naturally.  I just tend to shy away from anything that passes through or is exposed to human 'industry.'   It kind of goes by the famous last words of the dog owner, 'don't worry; he only growls'.  

There is no chemical contrivance or chemistry manipulation, anywhere, that has yet to prove 100% infallibly safe.   There are certainly exposures that are safer than others... of course.  Benzenes will tumor-up a testicle pretty quickly with exposure... say, but, high -fructose corn syrup only might or might not trigger Pancreatic Cancer.... etc..etc..  I just am not sure if the chemistry of roof shingling isn't leaching quantities of DNA rewrites that are only thought to be insufficiently too little to cause irreparable harm by the arrogance of either science, or the apathy of the user.  

Just curious. 

Course, there are chemicals that plants ignore in soils.  There are others that hitch ridge along the osmotic action of the roots and actually ends up in the flesh of the plant.  That's a whole 'nother aspect.  

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8 minutes ago, Typhoon Tip said:

I've heard of r-g system/hydration ... 

My bro-in-law in fact, barrel-stows rain water that falls off the roof, into the eave, then down the spout and stuff... Even installed a spigot to modulate the flow rate into one of those hoses that sweats water through.  It keeps his watering budget, both time and money, in check... 

But my question is, is that safe chemically?  

It's probably fine ... but, shingles don't occur in nature, naturally ...  Some roofs are slate and those do occur in nature, naturally.  I just tend to shy away from anything that passes through or is exposed to human 'industry.'   I kind of goes by the famous last words of the dog owner, 'don't worry; he only growls'.  

There is no chemical contrivance or chemistry manipulation, anywhere, that has yet to prove 100% infallibly safe.   There are certainly exposures that are safer than others... of course.  Benzenes will tumor-up a testicle pretty quickly with exposure... say, but, high -fructose corn syrup only might or might not trigger Pancreatic Cancer.... etc..etc..  I just am not sure if the chemistry of roof shingling isn't leaching quantities of DNA rewrites that are only thought to be insufficiently too little to cause irreparable harm by the arrogance of either science, or the apathy of the user.  

Just curious. 

Course, there are chemicals that plants ignore in soils.  There are others that hitch ridge along the osmotic action of the roots and actually ends up in the flesh of the plant.  That's a whole 'nother aspect.  

I had contemplated the rain barrel idea but elected not to go that route, You would need to filter out the shingle particles, If you look in a rain gutter, Over time you have to clean them out of roofing matter as most are asphalt shingles.

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22 minutes ago, dendrite said:

 

Same idea, But like anything else, The bigger the container, The more room for root growth, The bigger the plant, I started out in 5 gal containers and moved to 14 gallon and a couple 35 gal ones over the last 5+yrs.

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1 hour ago, dryslot said:

Yes, Then same idea, This is what the inside of the container looks like, The tray sits 6" above the bottom so that is all water below there, You pack those two pieces of drain pipe with soil in the container, That's the wicking part, I also have a drain hole on the outside of the containe at just under 6" so the water never gets above that level, This pic is about a week or so after planting.

 

Container1.JPG

Container.JPG

Garden1.jpg

Really clever set up.

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1 hour ago, Typhoon Tip said:

It's one of those morning where there is definitive clearing on satellite right over you on sat/vis imagery but no evidence of any brightening anywhere stepping out of doors. 

I swear, the satellite is sending pictures from the future some times...   Heh.  

Destructive sunshine here, as soon as it suns it clouds, some decent towers just went by

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Just took a drive over to the NW side of Newfound Lake.  Flash flooding was major.  Cockermouth River came way over it's banks bring down lots of trees.  This picture is not the river but a new channel it briefly cut through the woods.  Amazing how high the water came as you can see by the trailer stuck on the tree

Flash flood.jpg

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13 hours ago, OceanStWx said:

This is all I can find.

Locations:

1945-09-01 to 1948-06-01 0.5 MI SE OF PO
1944-01-01 to 1945-09-01 0.2 MI NE OF PO
1942-02-01 to 1944-01-01 0.7 MI SW OF PO
1898-02-01 to 1942-02-01 0.2 MI N OF PO
Relocations
1945-09-01 .6 mi SE
1944-01-01 .8 mi NE
1942-02-01 .9 mi SSW

Thank you thank you!  for digging this out.  I'll assume, w/o further info, that the obs site remained the same from 6/1/48 until the current observer took over in 1966.  The move early in 1898 is telling, as all the 1890s triples occurred before then, and temps didn't again reach the mark until the 1911 inferno.  The one oddity that remains is the very mild minima of August 1949.  Farmington has had 38 minima 70+ in 126 years and the only months with more than 2 are 8/1896 (3) and 8/1949 (5).  Raising the bar to 72 drops the total to just 12, and 8/49 notched 4 of them.  No other month has had more than one.  Since that hot month, there's been only one day, 7/21/1977 (74) with a low milder than 71.

What does PO stand for, point of original?  Center of town?

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This tropical air is interesting as ground truth on rain accumulation rates seems to exceed 'what we're used to' associating to radar displays. 

I watched the radar off and on during the evening hours for central NE and saw mainly 1 sometimes blobs of 2 level orange... Which is "heavy" ... but, 5" ...?  Seems a tad pricey for that rad presentation. 

Obviously there are invisible factors such orographic lifting ...also, wasn't there easterly low level inflow of humid air?   These seem to condensate perhaps beneath the radar elevations and so load the column more... Because even with some training the actual ground truth is a bit more than 2 level orange. 

 

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3 hours ago, dryslot said:

Its all clay, I'm below grade on all sides, I need to haul in some loam and build it up, Never had a problem like this and have been here 30 yrs, It won't happen again.

That soil partially explains (to me) why your arborvitae turned brown - I'm assuming that's what "arbor" stands for.  Part of the problem may be the particular cultivar, because in the wild that species, Thuja occidentalis, is Northern white cedar which does quite well on most wet sites.  Always a relatively slow grower, that growth becomes miniscule when there's no water flow thru saturated soils, such as in bogs.  The tree does best in what's called a seepage forest, with saturated soils but continual slow water flow.  They like a sweet soil, part of their acid-bog problem (cedar is small and ragged-looking there) while growing fairly well in droughty shale pits where pH is much higher.  If you have more of those species in harm's way, a little lime or wood ashes might help, though improved drainage would do more (and both would be best.)

Rain didn't get to my place until 7:30 last evening and by 9 had dropped a whole 0.01", making me think - another miss is on the way.  However, by 7 this morning we'd had 0.87", never heavy though sometimes moderate, so a near-perfect drink for the garden.

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2 hours ago, dendrite said:

NNE likes to build meteorology schools in downsloped valleys...Plym and LSC. They should've built them at 1500'.

Gotta teach the aspiring mets how to deal with frustration, as they're apt to face a lot when they begin forecasting professionally.  ;)

Bits of blue amid the clouds here in Augusta.  68/66 at 1 PM.

 

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