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9th annual Lawn Thread 2018


Damage In Tolland

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3 hours ago, dendrite said:

I have a nice one near work. Want. 

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In the woods (and 20'+ off the ground), that triple fork is classic for broadwing hawk nests.  I've seen more of them in "tri-horn" YB than in any other species or stem form.

Yellow birch likes a moist soil, moderately well to well drained, but will tolerate a somewhat wetter site.  I'm not familiar with river birch preferences but guess they would be similar.  Paper birch will tolaerate a drier site but doesn't do well in wetter areas.  The clumping probably won't affect height growth as long as the site is reasonably fertile, but diameter growth of the individual stems probably won't be as fast as on a single-stem tree - competition for light being the main reason.

The clumped version is more popular for landcaping, it looks more natural because that’s how they typically grow in nature. You actually can place them close to homes and driveways....they just dont provide shade.

That seems odd, unless it's a cultivar that doesn't grow very tall.  Our 4-stemmed paper birch (natural regeneration, not planted) is 35-40 feet tall and provides plenty of shade, and that species has less dense foliage than YB.  Our paper birch was a single stem until damaged by the 1998 ice storm, after which it produced a set of suckers from the base.  We selected the most vigorous 3, and 20 years later they're nearly as tall as the momma tree, though only about 5" diameter, half that of the original.

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6 hours ago, dendrite said:

I have a nice one near work. Want. 

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Yellow birch. There's tons and tons of those growing around my property, including a number of saplings that can probably be dug up and transplanted. There are also quite a few paper birches in the sunnier spots. Grey birch has taken over along some of the sunny road sides as well. 

I find it rare to find anything except river birches (and maybe some grey birches and their cultivars) in nurseries these days. This is probably because they're more resistant to the bronze birch borer than paper or yellow birch. River birch is the southernmost of the major eastern birch species and primarily grows in the mid-Atlantic and parts of the Southeast.

I did plant 10 paper birch saplings along the sunny side of my driveway. I ordered them online because their weren't really any good ones to dig up and transplant. Unlike the valleys, paper birch appears to do okay here since bronze birch borer is not overly cold tolerant. 

 

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49 minutes ago, Baroclinic Zone said:

I'd delay a guess until I could pluck a leaf and see if the sap is clear or milky. or until I saw a bud.  For both species, there's enough variability due to genetics and position (leaves in full sun are different from those in the shade) to create considerable overlap in characteristics.

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I plucked off a leaf from the tree and a nearby large (parent?) tree and didn't see what I would describe as white milky sap. I even squeezed the end of the leaf stem to draw out moisture and just got a small amount of clear. Here's a leaf from that large tree.

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7 minutes ago, dendrite said:

I plucked off a leaf from the tree and a nearby large (parent?) tree and didn't see what I would describe as white milky sap. I even squeezed the end of the leaf stem to draw out moisture and just got a small amount of clear. Here's a leaf from that large tree.

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Sugar maple. If the sap is clear it's a sugar. Norway maple leaves don't normally have a red stem and are shiny on the back and front compared to the sugar maple. Milky sap = Norway maple.

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I need to figure out what the regs are, but we have some area that was marked "wetland" on our property that is basically the runoff for the neighborhood. Right now it's fairly overrun with weedy undergrowth and smaller trees that are more like large shrubs. Ideally I would like to plant some trees back there that could handle the wetter soil and "pretty" it up a little.

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2 minutes ago, OceanStWx said:

I need to figure out what the regs are, but we have some area that was marked "wetland" on our property that is basically the runoff for the neighborhood. Right now it's fairly overrun with weedy undergrowth and smaller trees that are more like large shrubs. Ideally I would like to plant some trees back there that could handle the wetter soil and "pretty" it up a little.

You can have a dozen of my Salix Alba "cuttings" that fall off every spring...just jab them into the ground.

Sufficient payment is an 8" NWS measuring can.

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2 minutes ago, dendrite said:

You can have a dozen of my Salix Alba "cuttings" that fall off every spring...just jab them into the ground.

Sufficient payment is an 8" NWS measuring can.

I did hear willow was good in that type of environment. Maybe it's time I start trading on my government position. Start an illicit aboriculture and weather equipment ring.

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Just now, OceanStWx said:

I need to figure out what the regs are, but we have some area that was marked "wetland" on our property that is basically the runoff for the neighborhood. Right now it's fairly overrun with weedy undergrowth and smaller trees that are more like large shrubs. Ideally I would like to plant some trees back there that could handle the wetter soil and "pretty" it up a little.

They may be detention ponds that are part of your property.  Definitely will want to see what is allowed on them.  We have a few in my neighborhood as well (none on my property) 

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1 minute ago, Baroclinic Zone said:

They may be detention ponds that are part of your property.  Definitely will want to see what is allowed on them.  We have a few in my neighborhood as well (none on my property) 

As far as I know it isn't a detention pond, but sloped to drain all the water off towards the culvert in our neighbor's yard. I can see water actively moving through part of it in the spring during snowmelt, but right now even after a couple days of light rain it's pretty dry on the surface.

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Just now, OceanStWx said:

As far as I know it isn't a detention pond, but sloped to drain all the water off towards the culvert in our neighbor's yard. I can see water actively moving through part of it in the spring during snowmelt, but right now even after a couple days of light rain it's pretty dry on the surface.

Detention Ponds are normally dry.  They only have water in them during wet periods.  Got a picture of it?

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2 minutes ago, OceanStWx said:

 

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Water drains left to right and then towards you (which is towards the street).

So that area behind the hay bales is the "wetlands".  I don't think there are any restrictions on you disturbing/planting on this side of that but it's likely that you can't do anything on the other side.

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Just now, Baroclinic Zone said:

So that area behind the hay bales is the "wetlands".  I don't think there are any restrictions on you disturbing/planting on this side of that but it's likely that you can't do anything on the other side.

That's how it was labeled on all plots, but I'm not sure it's official wetlands as you might think of designated by a DEP or something like that. I just know we weren't allowed to fill it, or fill all of it (only 4300 sq ft could be filled). 

So I was wondering if I planted a tree, especially a native one, I'm not filling anything in. Also how would anyone know? ;)

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Just now, OceanStWx said:

That's how it was labeled on all plots, but I'm not sure it's official wetlands as you might think of designated by a DEP or something like that. I just know we weren't allowed to fill it, or fill all of it (only 4300 sq ft could be filled). 

So I was wondering if I planted a tree, especially a native one, I'm not filling anything in. Also how would anyone know? ;)

I would know. :ph34r:

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Just now, Baroclinic Zone said:

How's the soil there?  Any thoughts on planting Blueberries/Raspberries/Blackberries?

I'm guessing the water table isn't that far down, but the topsoil has dried out. But the spring was damp, like real mud season damp. But berries had crossed my mind too.

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