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Your 8th Annual SNE Lawn Thread


Damage In Tolland

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On 4/29/2017 at 7:53 PM, Damage In Tolland said:

Torch month has brought on an early mow. Wow.

http://7A16EFD4-4BAF-45F6-883E-143858FCB5D6_zps

 

On 5/5/2017 at 5:54 AM, Damage In Tolland said:

Beautiful lawns guys

 

On 5/5/2017 at 7:58 AM, Lava Rock said:


Can I come sleep on your lawn?

Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk
 

thanks

the dogs like to sleep on it as well

 

 

IMG_1243.JPG

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Did second mow yesterday.  Looks good, but then again, it never looks better than after the first few mows in the spring. 

Also, I am thinking about turning over the fertilizing and chemical applications to a specialty company, and just keep mowing myself.  Anyone have any thoughts about letting someone else deal with the lawn additives?

 

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16 hours ago, Brewbeer said:

Did second mow yesterday.  Looks good, but then again, it never looks better than after the first few mows in the spring. 

Also, I am thinking about turning over the fertilizing and chemical applications to a specialty company, and just keep mowing myself.  Anyone have any thoughts about letting someone else deal with the lawn additives?

 

It can be expensive, but it can align with what you would pay for the fertilizer in the store. it depends on what they are putting down, and how frequently. I have used trugreen in the past with very good results. But it did seem expensive. I think it cost me around $500/year for 6 applications, around $90 per application. and it depends on the size of your yard.

they do a pretty nice job, but you do have to keep an eye on them once in a while to make sure that they are treating what you need treated. for example, if you notice clovers or dandelions or some other weed in your lawn, if they haven’t already treated for it they will come back and spot treat, usually at no cost.

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30 minutes ago, SJonesWX said:

It can be expensive, but it can align with what you would pay for the fertilizer in the store. it depends on what they are putting down, and how frequently. I have used trugreen in the past with very good results. But it did seem expensive. I think it cost me around $500/year for 6 applications, around $90 per application. and it depends on the size of your yard.

they do a pretty nice job, but you do have to keep an eye on them once in a while to make sure that they are treating what you need treated. for example, if you notice clovers or dandelions or some other weed in your lawn, if they haven’t already treated for it they will come back and spot treat, usually at no cost.

 

16 hours ago, Brewbeer said:

Did second mow yesterday.  Looks good, but then again, it never looks better than after the first few mows in the spring. 

Also, I am thinking about turning over the fertilizing and chemical applications to a specialty company, and just keep mowing myself.  Anyone have any thoughts about letting someone else deal with the lawn additives?

 

agree with bolded part. some will not apply merit (grubs) unless you ask for it (they charge extra) . the other thing to consider is a soil eval. if your lawn is not the right ph you will not get the the full effect of the fert. so a lime application may be warranted as well. the fert obviously needs to be watered in especially the merit (they recommend .5") .

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On 5/9/2017 at 6:48 AM, sunny&pleasant said:

 

agree with bolded part. some will not apply merit (grubs) unless you ask for it (they charge extra) . the other thing to consider is a soil eval. if your lawn is not the right ph you will not get the the full effect of the fert. so a lime application may be warranted as well. the fert obviously needs to be watered in especially the merit (they recommend .5") .

I put down 500 pounds of pelletized lime and the first fertilizer application (ace hardware brand) in early-mid April.  I usually apply lime every other year.  Lawn looks good, will need to mow again tonight or tomorrow night since the weekend looks to be a lawn mowing washout and the lawn will be longer than it should get by the time it dries out early next week.

When do folks usually apply crab grass preventer?  I didn't put any down last year and experienced the consequences.

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54 minutes ago, Brewbeer said:

I put down 500 pounds of pelletized lime and the first fertilizer application (ace hardware brand) in early-mid April.  I usually apply lime every other year.  Lawn looks good, will need to mow again tonight or tomorrow night since the weekend looks to be a lawn mowing washout and the lawn will be longer than it should get by the time it dries out early next week.

When do folks usually apply crab grass preventer?  I didn't put any down last year and experienced the consequences.

you are almost too late. it should be put down early spring, but you might be ok since the soil temps are probably very cool (crabgrass loves the summer heat).

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6 minutes ago, IrishRob17 said:

Yeah, you don't want to wait much longer, especially if you over seed in the fall as the crabgrass preventer could inhibit that seed.     

I don't over seed, but sometimes do repairs to thin/weed choked areas in the fall.  Last fall I had an area that died due to the "drought" that I replanted late last fall.  Came up nicely this spring, but hasn't needed cutting just yet.  I take it this grass is now established enough to withstand a crab grass preventer application? 

 

Thanks guys. 

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7 minutes ago, Brewbeer said:

I don't over seed, but sometimes do repairs to thin/weed choked areas in the fall.  Last fall I had an area that died due to the "drought" that I replanted late last fall.  Came up nicely this spring, but hasn't needed cutting just yet.  I take it this grass is now established enough to withstand a crab grass preventer application? 

 

Thanks guys. 

Check the bag of the preventer that you are using.  I used Lesco and I think it said that new grass should be mowed a couple of times before application.  I didn't follow that and applied on the young new grass that came up from last falls overseeding and I had no issues, the young grass is still there and growing nicely.  A quick note on fertilizing for my yard, I don't fertilize as much as others do, only once, maybe twice a year.  My point/experience is once you establish some decent grass it doesn't need to be nuked as much as some think it does.  

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9 minutes ago, Brewbeer said:

I don't over seed, but sometimes do repairs to thin/weed choked areas in the fall.  Last fall I had an area that died due to the "drought" that I replanted late last fall.  Came up nicely this spring, but hasn't needed cutting just yet.  I take it this grass is now established enough to withstand a crab grass preventer application

 

Thanks guys. 

 Pre-emergents target young immature plants, so depends on how "established" that grass really us.  If you have 3-4 leaves on each plant probably Ok. 

Your saying it "came up nicely this spring". So did it actually establish last fall or was it more of a dormant seeding and establish this spring?

 

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1 hour ago, backedgeapproaching said:

 Your saying it "came up nicely this spring". So did it actually establish last fall or was it more of a dormant seeding and establish this spring?

 

I planted it fairly late last fall, in October.  Didn't really see much growth or sprouting last fall, so I figured I planted it too late, but this spring it looks like it has all sprouted and is growing well.  It's about 3-4 inches tall at this point, haven't mowed this section yet.  It's a small area maybe 30-40 square feet or so located between some bushes and the road at the front corner of my property.  I could skip this area when I put down the crab grass preventer, but it is kinda thin and the crab grass will take it over if I don't.

I usually fertilize twice per year, once in the fall in early October, and once in the spring just as the grass is waking up.  I don't fertilize in the summer.  I'm not aiming to have the best lawn in the 'hood, but I do want it to look better than my in-law's lawn, just to make my father-in-law jealous.     

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What a difference from last year.  In July and most of August we were in extreme drought up this way.  This pic was take in on July 31st (with another month of no rain on the way).  Most of the yard was just dirt, especially off to the right.   I worked hard on it all September and October, hoping that it would take and come back in the spring.  The second pic was taken this afternoon.  Still have some work to do, still some patches here and there, but it came back in quite well.

 

 

ffbe804b89e56e514f9e1971e16def6b.jpg

IMG_0365 (1).JPG

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9 hours ago, Dan said:

What a difference from last year.  In July and most of August we were in extreme drought up this way.  This pic was take in on July 31st (with another month of no rain on the way).  Most of the yard was just dirt, especially off to the right.   I worked hard on it all September and October, hoping that it would take and come back in the spring.  The second pic was taken this afternoon.  Still have some work to do, still some patches here and there, but it came back in quite well.

 

 

ffbe804b89e56e514f9e1971e16def6b.jpg

IMG_0365 (1).JPG

Nice. My lawn looked pretty bad during the heart of the drought last year too. It just went dormant though rather than dead so once the rain came back so did the grass

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28 minutes ago, IrishRob17 said:

Nice. My lawn looked pretty bad during the heart of the drought last year too. It just went dormant though rather than dead so once the rain came back so did the grass

you want to see terrible. This was our front lawn Summer 2015. Last year wasn't much better. Of course, it always looks pretty bad due to insufficient topsoil. I aerated and overseeded 3 weeks ago and am starting to see some new growth, so fingers crossed our desert starts to look more green. Compare the desert pic to today. Much improved, but needs more work.

lawn torch.jpg

capture1.jpg

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45 minutes ago, Lava Rock said:

you want to see terrible. This was our front lawn Summer 2015. Last year wasn't much better. Of course, it always looks pretty bad due to insufficient topsoil. I aerated and overseeded 3 weeks ago and am starting to see some new growth, so fingers crossed our desert starts to look more green. Compare the desert pic to today. Much improved, but needs more work.

lawn torch.jpg

capture1.jpg

Oh, that's your yard!  I've seen your pics before. I did aeration at the same time and it's hard to tell the results right now but there's a reason why it gets done. My issue is clay in parts of my yard.  

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17 minutes ago, dendrite said:

Anyone know the best lime to use with free ranging chickens? If I get it down Saturday I assume it won't be too big of a deal with the storm approaching and soaking it in, but I still want to be on the safe side.

dolomitic  lime

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16 minutes ago, Ginx snewx said:

dolomitic  lime

checking it out now...thanks

I haven't checked the pH in the yard yet, but judging by the success of the wild strawberry in the front and moss in the back I assume I'm way too acidic. I've made it be known that my yard is chicken friendly first and thick and lush last, but I can do without some of these garbage plants that are trying to push out the grass and clover.

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Lava, my phone is not quoting your post for some reason, but think that is Orchard Grass.  Not easy to to get rid of.  I know this is an evil word, but Roundup/glyphosate is really the only way. Might take multiple applications too.

You could try the dig up and reseed method too.


Yes that's what I thought. I'll see if trugreen can hit to the stuff next visit. Seems to be getting worse every year

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