nzucker Posted July 13, 2015 Share Posted July 13, 2015 Garden starting to move along nicely: Small red cabbage harvested about 2 weeks ago. Zucchini picked this weekend, cooked in mint and honey tonight. Inside of a large red cabbage, taken a few days ago. This eggplant now has a fruit on it...should be ready in a week or so. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
weathafella Posted July 13, 2015 Share Posted July 13, 2015 Nice Nate! I love red cabbage. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tamarack Posted July 13, 2015 Share Posted July 13, 2015 I've used the Ortho Home Defense and then the Bug B gone granules around the foundation and it has worked. Barely one and scene in the house since 2013. Two-thirds borax (the kind one uses with laundry) and 1/3 granular sugar, which encourages the little beasts to carry the toxic-to-ants borax back to the nest. We had major piles of sawdust before going that route. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lava Rock Posted July 13, 2015 Share Posted July 13, 2015 I've noticed some of the Scotts Sun/Shade mix that I seeded in May is dying. Granted, it gets full sun exposure and it's been a bit dry, but rest of "old" lawn looks fine. Also, other areas, not as hit hard by the sun with the Scotts mix looks good. I really like the seed as it's 40% tall fescue. Is it possible I need a more sun tolerant mix or just more watering? A lot of the dry area is directly over our septic, which I believe is contributing some heat and drying things out further. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CoastalWx Posted July 13, 2015 Share Posted July 13, 2015 I've noticed some of the Scotts Sun/Shade mix that I seeded in May is dying. Granted, it gets full sun exposure and it's been a bit dry, but rest of "old" lawn looks fine. Also, other areas, not as hit hard by the sun with the Scotts mix looks good. I really like the seed as it's 40% tall fescue. Is it possible I need a more sun tolerant mix or just more watering? A lot of the dry area is directly over our septic, which I believe is contributing some heat and drying things out further. I ran into the same problem last year. The roots probably are not deep which means frequent watering is likely needed until it gets really established. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
backedgeapproaching Posted July 13, 2015 Share Posted July 13, 2015 Two-thirds borax (the kind one uses with laundry) and 1/3 granular sugar, which encourages the little beasts to carry the toxic-to-ants borax back to the nest. We had major piles of sawdust before going that route. This. Had a big problem with carpenter ants in my last house a few years back. Used this exact potion and we they were gone. Didn't see one ant the rest of the time I lived there. (about 2 years) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
backedgeapproaching Posted July 13, 2015 Share Posted July 13, 2015 I've noticed some of the Scotts Sun/Shade mix that I seeded in May is dying. Granted, it gets full sun exposure and it's been a bit dry, but rest of "old" lawn looks fine. Also, other areas, not as hit hard by the sun with the Scotts mix looks good. I really like the seed as it's 40% tall fescue. Is it possible I need a more sun tolerant mix or just more watering? A lot of the dry area is directly over our septic, which I believe is contributing some heat and drying things out further. What Coastal said pretty much. That roots of the seed you planted in May are still really shallow(the top few inches dry out much quicker than deeper down) Your "old" lawn has much deeper more established roots (how deep depends on a number of factors, but much deeper than your May planted seed) Whenever you do a spring seeding, just be prepared to water, water, water. Which is why, if you can, its always better to do a late summer/early fall seeding. I actually used a Scotts sun/shade mix when I bought my first house years ago and planted in May also. Came out pretty good actually--but had to water nonstop and it got a lot of afternoon shade which helped. Spring seeding is a lot safer in Maine than it was in Southern PA too. I would personally never do a spring seeding again, but I think you can make it turn out OK, just have dump a ton of water on it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lava Rock Posted July 13, 2015 Share Posted July 13, 2015 What Coastal said pretty much. That roots of the seed you planted in May are still really shallow(the top few inches dry out much quicker than deeper down) Your "old" lawn has much deeper more established roots (how deep depends on a number of factors, but much deeper than your May planted seed) Whenever you do a spring seeding, just be prepared to water, water, water. Which is why, if you can, its always better to do a late summer/early fall seeding. I actually used a Scotts sun/shade mix when I bought my first house years ago and planted in May also. Came out pretty good actually--but had to water nonstop and it got a lot of afternoon shade which helped. Spring seeding is a lot safer in Maine than it was in Southern PA too. I would personally never do a spring seeding again, but I think you can make it turn out OK, just have dump a ton of water on it. So, can the dead lawn be recovered or is it toast? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
backedgeapproaching Posted July 13, 2015 Share Posted July 13, 2015 So, can the dead lawn be recovered or is it toast? I didn't realize it was totally dead. Its harder for young seedlings to recover than the established portions of you lawn. You might be able to bring some of it back, but probably not all. Just going to have to water and see how it recovers. Might have to throw some more seed down come later summer depending on what does or doesn't come back. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr. Windcredible! Posted July 13, 2015 Share Posted July 13, 2015 Hey guys...I've had a couple stumps removed as well as some other small holes in the lawn I'm looking to fill in and seed. I've gone through and estimated a need for about 3 cubic yards of top soil...but that does not allow for any compaction of the soil. Curious how much I should inflate my estimate to account for that. I read something that recommended when filling in holes to bring them to as much as 6" above surrounding ground level...sounds like overkill to me...and it also seems like it would depend on the depth of the area being filled. For instance one of the stumps was surrounded by a large bed of Pachysandra...which after digging up leaves the old bed only a few inches below surrounding ground level...so no way 9" of soil over that area is going to compact to fill in what is actually just an area of 3" in depth. So I'm wondering if I should inflate my estimate by a flat percentage instead. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baroclinic Zone Posted July 13, 2015 Share Posted July 13, 2015 I've noticed some of the Scotts Sun/Shade mix that I seeded in May is dying. Granted, it gets full sun exposure and it's been a bit dry, but rest of "old" lawn looks fine. Also, other areas, not as hit hard by the sun with the Scotts mix looks good. I really like the seed as it's 40% tall fescue. Is it possible I need a more sun tolerant mix or just more watering? A lot of the dry area is directly over our septic, which I believe is contributing some heat and drying things out further. I ran into the same problem last year. The roots probably are not deep which means frequent watering is likely needed until it gets really established. Spring is not a good time to seed generally as the roots are not able to penetrate deep enough before the summer dry/warmth come along. Best bet will be to top dress it in late August and than seed it. TF is good for drought resistance but it is a clump grass and dos not spread like a bluegrass would. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nzucker Posted July 13, 2015 Share Posted July 13, 2015 Nice Nate! I love red cabbage.I sauteed it in olive oil and butter with leeks and garlic for 10 minutes, then added red wine, covered and braised it for 10 more minutes, finished off with fresh basil and some balsamic vinegar. Delicious!I also chop it, shred it a little, and add it to salads raw, along with the lettuce and arugula I grow. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tamarack Posted July 13, 2015 Share Posted July 13, 2015 This. Had a big problem with carpenter ants in my last house a few years back. Used this exact potion and we they were gone. Didn't see one ant the rest of the time I lived there. (about 2 years) I put out some every 2nd year, as we have a few carpenter ants that try to recolonize from the surrounding woodland, along with occasional smaller ant species. Typically, June is "ant month." Since our place, an L.C. Andrews "log cabin" package, is even woodier than a normal house. It's stick-framed with 3x4s, sheathed with 1/2" plywood, then "sided" with planed-three-sides Northern whitecedar logs which range from 3" to 5" horizontal thickness. Good for insulation value but also a treasure trove for carpenter ants. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lava Rock Posted July 15, 2015 Share Posted July 15, 2015 Spring is not a good time to seed generally as the roots are not able to penetrate deep enough before the summer dry/warmth come along. Best bet will be to top dress it in late August and than seed it. TF is good for drought resistance but it is a clump grass and dos not spread like a bluegrass would. Yes, will be topdressing with compost and seed early Sept. I really wish we had the money to rip it all out, bring in more topsoil then hydroseed. It's like applying band aids here and there. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
#NoPoles Posted July 16, 2015 Share Posted July 16, 2015 Crap, my front lawn has the rust colored fungus Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CoastalWx Posted July 17, 2015 Share Posted July 17, 2015 Man is the grass thick. I can't believe the difference in my yard from this time last year. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baroclinic Zone Posted July 17, 2015 Share Posted July 17, 2015 Man is the grass thick. I can't believe the difference in my yard from this time last year. I cut mine yesterday. It took me a couple passes. I had not cut it in a couple weeks and some areas were a good 12" long where sun is limited. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CoastalWx Posted July 17, 2015 Share Posted July 17, 2015 I cut mine yesterday. It took me a couple passes. I had not cut it in a couple weeks and some areas were a good 12" long where sun is limited. Yeah took me 3 hrs. Had to go real slow and do half passes because my shoot would get clogged. One of those days I wished for a tractor, although the cardio is nice. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mreaves Posted July 18, 2015 Share Posted July 18, 2015 Yeah took me 3 hrs. Had to go real slow and do half passes because my shoot would get clogged. One of those days I wished for a tractor, although the cardio is nice.Going to be on vacation another week. I dread what I'm going to get home and find. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CoastalWx Posted July 18, 2015 Share Posted July 18, 2015 Going to be on vacation another week. I dread what I'm going to get home and find. I went 6 weeks without moving last summer and could have went two months. We had no rain at all. In about 5-7 days I had that growth. Big difference the rain makes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
moneypitmike Posted July 18, 2015 Share Posted July 18, 2015 Real basic, embarrassed-to-ask question regarding run of the mill weed/feed. They recommend putting it on wet lawn so the stuff sticks to the weeds. Does that mean you don't water after putting it down? Given the approach of needing rain/water after regular fertilizer, this seems wrong. Any clarification is welcome. Thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Damage In Tolland Posted July 18, 2015 Author Share Posted July 18, 2015 Real basic, embarrassed-to-ask question regarding run of the mill weed/feed. They recommend putting it on wet lawn so the stuff sticks to the weeds. Does that mean you don't water after putting it down? Given the approach of needing rain/water after regular fertilizer, this seems wrong. Any clarification is welcome. Thanks. You don't want it to rain for 24 hours after you put it down..so that the weed killer sticks to the weeds leaves and starts the kill. Why after all these years of saying you would ever fertilize are you deciding to fert? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
backedgeapproaching Posted July 18, 2015 Share Posted July 18, 2015 Real basic, embarrassed-to-ask question regarding run of the mill weed/feed. They recommend putting it on wet lawn so the stuff sticks to the weeds. Does that mean you don't water after putting it down? Given the approach of needing rain/water after regular fertilizer, this seems wrong. Any clarification is welcome. Thanks. DIT was right. Personally, I don't think you need to throw down fert in the middle of July, but I know DIT and some others go heavy fert all the time and have some good results. Mid summer I stick to 1" inch of water per week and organic fert. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
moneypitmike Posted July 18, 2015 Share Posted July 18, 2015 You don't want it to rain for 24 hours after you put it down..so that the weed killer sticks to the weeds leaves and starts the kill. Why after all these years of saying you would ever fertilize are you deciding to fert? I've always fertilized with organic stuff. This is my first time trying to get rid of weeds in an area far away from my drinking supply. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JC-CT Posted July 18, 2015 Share Posted July 18, 2015 Real basic, embarrassed-to-ask question regarding run of the mill weed/feed. They recommend putting it on wet lawn so the stuff sticks to the weeds. Does that mean you don't water after putting it down? Given the approach of needing rain/water after regular fertilizer, this seems wrong. Any clarification is welcome. Thanks. Your question brings up one of the primary arguments that opponents of weed-and-feed products raise. Convenience over efficiency. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SJonesWX Posted July 18, 2015 Share Posted July 18, 2015 Crap, my front lawn has the rust colored fungus red thread Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
moneypitmike Posted July 19, 2015 Share Posted July 19, 2015 Too bad the grounds still so wet. I wanted to be out there mowing already. I'll give it 'til 9:00 and make the best of it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
moneypitmike Posted July 19, 2015 Share Posted July 19, 2015 Mowing's done. Time to grab some iced tea, sit by the pool and study for my real estate exam. 84.7/73 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
backedgeapproaching Posted July 19, 2015 Share Posted July 19, 2015 Awesome property you got there MPM. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Damage In Tolland Posted July 19, 2015 Author Share Posted July 19, 2015 Looks good Michael. Impressive area you've got there Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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