Baroclinic Zone Posted July 31, 2013 Share Posted July 31, 2013 Clippings don't cause thatch, they are 70% water and decompose pretty fast. What causes thatch are rhizomes and stolons. If you have a turf cover that is warm season or blue grass then thatch could be an issue. Tall fescue and ryegrass are what they call bunch type grasses, they don't spread out with rhizomes or stolons. The way how they grow is tiller out from the crown. I have never aerated my lawn and it has done just fine. If you have the money and equipment to do it, by all means do it. Aerating helps get water and oxygen down into the root system and relieves compaction. You don't need a verticutter if you are coring. Agree. Last time I de-thatched was ~3 yrs ago and last time I aerated was ~5-6 yrs ago. As long as you maintain the correct soil you should not have issues with either thatch or compaction. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tombo82685 Posted July 31, 2013 Share Posted July 31, 2013 Should also state bagging clippings also waste nitrogen. When you return the clippings back into your yard and they decompose the nitrogen in the blade gets re used again. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
moneypitmike Posted July 31, 2013 Share Posted July 31, 2013 Knotweed is easy to get rid, just hit it with a broadleaf herbicide. Really? Like one of the products from Scott's, etc.? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Flying MXZ Posted July 31, 2013 Share Posted July 31, 2013 Knotweed is easy to get rid, just hit it with a broadleaf herbicide. How about when there are acres of it along riverbanks? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CoastalWx Posted July 31, 2013 Share Posted July 31, 2013 Tombo, if I blast away an area of weeds and ground cover with Ortho or something like that, will it ruin any new seed I try to plant next month? I know this stuff basically says kills whatever it hits so I'm afraid of ruining the soil. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Damage In Tolland Posted July 31, 2013 Author Share Posted July 31, 2013 Tombo, if I blast away an area of weeds and ground cover with Ortho or something like that, will it ruin any new seed I try to plant next month? I know this stuff basically says kills whatever it hits so I'm afraid of ruining the soil. Not if you plant the seed after you hit it with Ortho. Don't apply weed killer after seeding though and that goes for fert too like Dimension..You want to hit the area you seed with a starter fert the same time you seed Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grinch1989 Posted July 31, 2013 Share Posted July 31, 2013 Clippings don't cause thatch, they are 70% water and decompose pretty fast. What causes thatch are rhizomes and stolons. If you have a turf cover that is warm season or blue grass then thatch could be an issue. Tall fescue and ryegrass are what they call bunch type grasses, they don't spread out with rhizomes or stolons. The way how they grow is tiller out from the crown. I have never aerated my lawn and it has done just fine. If you have the money and equipment to do it, by all means do it. Aerating helps get water and oxygen down into the root system and relieves compaction. You don't need a verticutter if you are coring. Thanks for the reply, very informative. I'm going to guess that I have mostly bunch type grass, but I really don't know for sure. Checking for thatch is easy I'd guess...just move the blades of grass to expose the ground? If I see dirt I'm good? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tombo82685 Posted July 31, 2013 Share Posted July 31, 2013 Tombo, if I blast away an area of weeds and ground cover with Ortho or something like that, will it ruin any new seed I try to plant next month? I know this stuff basically says kills whatever it hits so I'm afraid of ruining the soil. Pretty much what kev said. You will be fine seeding wise. Only time you get in trouble with seeding is when you apply a pre emerge herbicide. Heck even roundup, which is a non selective herbicide you can seed into it after 24 hours. Just don't spray anything on the new seed that just comes up till you have had at least 3 mowings of it. What are you trying to get rid of? I'm not that familiar with ortho but i know its not that strong against stuff like clover and dandelions probably. If that is all you can afford its definitely better than nothing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tombo82685 Posted July 31, 2013 Share Posted July 31, 2013 How about when there are acres of it along riverbanks? You can still do it. You just need the right chemical and equipment. We spray our whole rough which is about 60 acres with a turf sprayer that has a 20 ft boom length. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tombo82685 Posted July 31, 2013 Share Posted July 31, 2013 Really? Like one of the products from Scott's, etc.? I'm not a fan of scotts or ortho. Their is reason why you don't see golf courses or other areas that need prestige turf not using it. They are okay for the average home owner but some weeds the can't fully kill like clover, dandelions, etc. They definitely hurt it but not fully kill it. If you have the money this is the best chemical out there in my eyes, called confront. it will probably cost you about 175 dollars or thereabouts, but the mixing ratio is low so it goes a long way. For spot spraying its .5oz/1 gallon of water. This is what i use at my house and the course. I have taken out purslane, mallow, clover, dandelions, spurge, broadleaf plaintain, buckhorn, galinsoga, groundsel, wild violet, knotweed, hawkweed, etc with it. 2nd best which is cheaper is super trimec. Here is confront:http://www.seedranch.com/Confront-Herbicide-1-Gal-p/Confront-Herb-1-Gal.htm super trimec:http://pestandlawncontrol-com.myshopify.com/products/super-trimec-herbicide?gclid=CPnLzLjt2bgCFdQDOgodOFIAFw Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baroclinic Zone Posted July 31, 2013 Share Posted July 31, 2013 For anyone looking to garner more info/knowledge, I use thse two sites. http://www.lawnsite.com/index.php http://forums.gardenweb.com/forums/ (They have many forums, of which there is a Lawn Care and Organic Lawn Care) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tombo82685 Posted July 31, 2013 Share Posted July 31, 2013 Thanks for the reply, very informative. I'm going to guess that I have mostly bunch type grass, but I really don't know for sure. Checking for thatch is easy I'd guess...just move the blades of grass to expose the ground? If I see dirt I'm good? ill show you a pic of thatch from one of our fairways... basically thatch starts at the surface and goes down to however bad it is. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trat Posted July 31, 2013 Share Posted July 31, 2013 Does anyone use Bay State Fertilizer? Opinions? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baroclinic Zone Posted July 31, 2013 Share Posted July 31, 2013 Does anyone use Bay State Fertilizer? Opinions? I've heard of it. I think it is very similar to Milorganite, which is a great product. They are both by-products of sewage. http://www.mwra.state.ma.us/publications/fertilizerbrochure.pdf http://milorganite.com/en/Tools-and-Resources/~/media/Files/MSDS/Milorganite%20MSDS%2036%20lb%20bag%205-2-0.pdf Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CoastalWx Posted July 31, 2013 Share Posted July 31, 2013 Pretty much what kev said. You will be fine seeding wise. Only time you get in trouble with seeding is when you apply a pre emerge herbicide. Heck even roundup, which is a non selective herbicide you can seed into it after 24 hours. Just don't spray anything on the new seed that just comes up till you have had at least 3 mowings of it. What are you trying to get rid of? I'm not that familiar with ortho but i know its not that strong against stuff like clover and dandelions probably. If that is all you can afford its definitely better than nothing. Clovers, crabgrass, and that creeping charlie or whatever it is. The crabgrass can wait and I;ll deal with it as you said. There is one area of the yard like a 20'-20' that is taken over with that creeping Charlie. I might have to nuke it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
amarshall Posted July 31, 2013 Share Posted July 31, 2013 Anyone have any tips for Japanese knotwood? My entire town is covered in the stuff. My new house has 1/4 of an acre of it. I want to remove it all and put my garden there. I've read the stuff is viscous. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tombo82685 Posted July 31, 2013 Share Posted July 31, 2013 Clovers, crabgrass, and that creeping charlie or whatever it is. The crabgrass can wait and I;ll deal with it as you said. There is one area of the yard like a 20'-20' that is taken over with that creeping Charlie. I might have to nuke it.The ortho is it granular or liquid? A good herbicide will destroy the ground ivy and leave the grass untouched. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CoastalWx Posted July 31, 2013 Share Posted July 31, 2013 The ortho is it granular or liquid? A good herbicide will destroy the ground ivy and leave the grass untouched. It's liquid. I'll def check out those links you provided too...I have some money to play around with. The yard overall is in good shape...just some nagging stuff to deal with, but I have to take things one at a time, lol. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Damage In Tolland Posted July 31, 2013 Author Share Posted July 31, 2013 It's liquid. I'll def check out those links you provided too...I have some money to play around with. The yard overall is in good shape...just some nagging stuff to deal with, but I have to take things one at a time, lol.I still remember you saying in a post that you wouldn't care about the lawn and me telling you ,, just wait Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CoastalWx Posted July 31, 2013 Share Posted July 31, 2013 I still remember you saying in a post that you wouldn't care about the lawn and me telling you ,, just wait I know...it's just me wanting to get everything done at once. New kitchen is coming in the fall...well at least cabinets anyways. Crown molding..etc. BTW, has anyone ever painted over the older 80s/90s style colonial molding which is polyurethaned? It's the simple looking molding that it stained brown and then poly'd over. I'm wondering how the final outcome would look. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baroclinic Zone Posted July 31, 2013 Share Posted July 31, 2013 I know...it's just me wanting to get everything done at once. New kitchen is coming in the fall...well at least cabinets anyways. Crown molding..etc. BTW, has anyone ever painted over the older 80s/90s style colonial molding which is polyurethaned? It's the simple looking molding that it stained brown and then poly'd over. I'm wondering how the final outcome would look. I think you'll want to prep the molding for paint by scuffing up the existing finish so that the paint will adhere better. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tombo82685 Posted July 31, 2013 Share Posted July 31, 2013 It's liquid. I'll def check out those links you provided too...I have some money to play around with. The yard overall is in good shape...just some nagging stuff to deal with, but I have to take things one at a time, lol. If you have the money, confront honestly is the best. You will smoke that ground ivy and clover with it. It comes in a gallon and 2.5 gallon jugs. 1 gallon jug will give you 250 1 gallon spray containers. So you get a lot for the money. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tombo82685 Posted July 31, 2013 Share Posted July 31, 2013 I've heard of it. I think it is very similar to Milorganite, which is a great product. They are both by-products of sewage. http://www.mwra.state.ma.us/publications/fertilizerbrochure.pdf http://milorganite.com/en/Tools-and-Resources/~/media/Files/MSDS/Milorganite%20MSDS%2036%20lb%20bag%205-2-0.pdf Have you ever taken a soil test? I now you guys are acidic like we are south south of 7 is your pH, but what about the other nutrients like potassium, phosphorus, and your cec? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tombo82685 Posted July 31, 2013 Share Posted July 31, 2013 Anyone have any tips for Japanese knotwood? My entire town is covered in the stuff. My new house has 1/4 of an acre of it. I want to remove it all and put my garden there. I've read the stuff is viscous. I definitely mistaken you and Mike on the knotweed. That stuff looks viscious, almost is a vine. I thought you guys were talking about this kind of knotweed, called prostrate knotweed which is found in lawns...http://www.google.com/imgres?imgurl=&imgrefurl=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.omafra.gov.on.ca%2Fenglish%2Fcrops%2Ffacts%2Fontweeds%2Fprostrate_knotweed.htm&h=0&w=0&sz=1&tbnid=EQpyf2ws-LP26M&tbnh=182&tbnw=277&zoom=1&docid=l8VcHQx7ISbnhM&ei=SzX5UaClDPWg4APfw4GIBw&ved=0CAIQsCU Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baroclinic Zone Posted July 31, 2013 Share Posted July 31, 2013 Have you ever taken a soil test? I now you guys are acidic like we are south south of 7 is your pH, but what about the other nutrients like potassium, phosphorus, and your cec? I have not. Likely should though. UMass has a testing facility there. I definitely mistaken you and Mike on the knotweed. That stuff looks viscious, almost is a vine. I thought you guys were talking about this kind of knotweed, called prostrate knotweed which is found in lawns...http://www.google.com/imgres?imgurl=&imgrefurl=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.omafra.gov.on.ca%2Fenglish%2Fcrops%2Ffacts%2Fontweeds%2Fprostrate_knotweed.htm&h=0&w=0&sz=1&tbnid=EQpyf2ws-LP26M&tbnh=182&tbnw=277&zoom=1&docid=l8VcHQx7ISbnhM&ei=SzX5UaClDPWg4APfw4GIBw&ved=0CAIQsCU Yeah, Japanese Knotweed is nasty. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CoastalWx Posted July 31, 2013 Share Posted July 31, 2013 I think you'll want to prep the molding for paint by scuffing up the existing finish so that the paint will adhere better. Yeah there is also a product that you can wipe on and it dissolves the poly. I just wanted to know if anyone has done this before and does it actually look good. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wx2fish Posted July 31, 2013 Share Posted July 31, 2013 Yeah there is also a product that you can wipe on and it dissolves the poly. I just wanted to know if anyone has done this before and does it actually look good. Sanding then priming it with kilz has worked for me. Then 2-3 coats of a semi- gloss white paint. There are probably other ways to do it but that worked for me. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CoastalWx Posted July 31, 2013 Share Posted July 31, 2013 Sanding then priming it with kilz has worked for me. Then 2-3 coats of a semi- gloss white paint. There are probably other ways to do it but that worked for me. That's what I was told as well. Kilz is great. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SJonesWX Posted July 31, 2013 Share Posted July 31, 2013 there is also a paint made just for that type of thing, called Glidden gripper. I have used it in the past with very good results, although not on a polyurethaned surface http://www.glidden.com/products/gripper-primer-white.do'>http://www.glidden.com/products/gripper-primer-white.do Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grinch1989 Posted July 31, 2013 Share Posted July 31, 2013 That's what I was told as well. Kilz is great. I'm a huge benny moore fan and have dozens of gallons on my walls. I can't vouch for what you are trying to do here, but I can vouch for Fresh Start. I think an oil based primer will do the trick with standing and cleaning with something like denatured alcohol http://www.benjaminmoore.com/en-us/for-your-home/paint-products/fresh-start-premium-primers#piSheen=024&advs=0&tab=2 http://www.amazon.com/Klean-Strip-Quart-S-L-X-Denatured-Alcohol/dp/B000SL3S6Y Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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