amarshall Posted July 30, 2013 Share Posted July 30, 2013 Is there any way to treat dollar spot on the lawn? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tombo82685 Posted July 30, 2013 Share Posted July 30, 2013 Should I do the same for some ground cover that decided to take over the area next to where it grows as well? I don't know what it is, but it invaded the areas it abuts. Well it depends, is it straight ground cover to the point if it was killed there would be bare areas. Or is there some grass mixed in with it? If its straight ground cover no grass i would wait til like labor day weekend, kill the weeds then start your seeding process whichever you choose to do. If some grass is mixed in, you could kill it now then just hit it with some fertilizer. The fertilizer will help it fill in. You may get some crabgrass but i don't think it will be that bad. Once september comes and you think the area is thin seed into it. The crangrass issue, is your yard mainly crabgrass or just sporadic throughout? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tombo82685 Posted July 30, 2013 Share Posted July 30, 2013 Is there any way to treat dollar spot on the lawn? yes...first off do you bag your clippings? Dollar spot is a low nitrogen disease. Adding nitrogen may help but won't cure it. Best and cheapest fungicide which is commonly used is chlorathalinil. You have to be careful because after a couple years of using the same product if you use it a lot dollar spot can become resistant. So it's good to switch up your classes of fungicides. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baroclinic Zone Posted July 30, 2013 Share Posted July 30, 2013 if you can get a picture of the whole mass and then of the blade itself. Will do. Maybe not today. Back to the Grubs, I'll add that I was in year 2 of my Milky Spore Granule applications last year so I thought I was safe. Guess not. That's why I went with the Merit this year to nip it. Not sure if the weather has much to do with it, but I've noticed a general decrease in the beetle populations this year(Japanese, Chafer, etc). I also feel like my amending my soil by adding the top-dressing and alfalfa have really helped. I've noticed a lot more earthworms in it lately which is a great sign. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tombo82685 Posted July 30, 2013 Share Posted July 30, 2013 Will do. Maybe not today. Back to the Grubs, I'll add that I was in year 2 of my Milky Spore Granule applications last year so I thought I was safe. Guess not. That's why I went with the Merit this year to nip it. Not sure if the weather has much to do with it, but I've noticed a general decrease in the beetle populations this year(Japanese, Chafer, etc). I also feel like my amending my soil by adding the top-dressing and alfalfa have really helped. I've noticed a lot more earthworms in it lately which is a great sign. Not to familiar with the milky spore granula. But is that a bacteria that fights off grubs kind of like how ryegrass has an endophyte to deter them?We just use merit in the rough and fairways. A couple years we used acelpryn from du pont. You can apply that in april-may and it will give you grub protection all year. Its expensive though. The reason we aplied it was to hold back annual bluegrass weevils. Also turf type can help you out. They don'y like tall fescue and ryegrass that much, but will devour bluegrass and fine fescue. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tombo82685 Posted July 30, 2013 Share Posted July 30, 2013 not in this area, but this is my front yard after i mowed it yesterday Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CoastalWx Posted July 30, 2013 Share Posted July 30, 2013 Well it depends, is it straight ground cover to the point if it was killed there would be bare areas. Or is there some grass mixed in with it? If its straight ground cover no grass i would wait til like labor day weekend, kill the weeds then start your seeding process whichever you choose to do. If some grass is mixed in, you could kill it now then just hit it with some fertilizer. The fertilizer will help it fill in. You may get some crabgrass but i don't think it will be that bad. Once september comes and you think the area is thin seed into it. The crangrass issue, is your yard mainly crabgrass or just sporadic throughout? It's just sporadic, but in areas where I have fescue grass as well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baroclinic Zone Posted July 30, 2013 Share Posted July 30, 2013 Not to familiar with the milky spore granula. But is that a bacteria that fights off grubs kind of like how ryegrass has an endophyte to deter them?We just use merit in the rough and fairways. A couple years we used acelpryn from du pont. You can apply that in april-may and it will give you grub protection all year. Its expensive though. The reason we aplied it was to hold back annual bluegrass weevils. Also turf type can help you out. They don'y like tall fescue and ryegrass that much, but will devour bluegrass and fine fescue. Yeah it's a bacteria that basically inoculates your soil by infecting the grubs and the grubs die spreading the spores. I will be mostly over-seeding with TTTF for that reason, grubs plus it's more drought tolerant. I don't have irrigation so I rely mostly on mother-nature and if necessary the hose when it gets bad. This year has been fantastic. Mother-nature has been plentiful with the rain. Only had a 2 week stretch in early/mid July when it got dry. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tombo82685 Posted July 30, 2013 Share Posted July 30, 2013 It's just sporadic, but in areas where I have fescue grass as well. if the crabgrass is sporadic like less than 25% coverage of your yard fertilizing it properly will make the grass fill in. Areas where there are good clumps of crabgrass that will leave decent sized bare areas i would seed. Is this the ground cover that you are talking about? This is the most common http://www.google.com/imgres?imgurl=http://extension.entm.purdue.edu/CAPS/pestInfo/pics/big/creepingCharlie1.jpg&imgrefurl=http://extension.entm.purdue.edu/CAPS/pestInfo/creepingCharlie.htm&h=194&w=259&sz=1&tbnid=QnO9q2hRa4n9AM:&tbnh=150&tbnw=200&zoom=1&usg=__o8Ahyh1Fd58uT32TtHK_72aBGjc=&docid=4oqM6qjmtN5zWM&itg=1&sa=X&ei=ncX3UbCuNLTD4APr-YCICg&ved=0CKoBEPwdMAo Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tombo82685 Posted July 30, 2013 Share Posted July 30, 2013 Yeah it's a bacteria that basically inoculates your soil by infecting the grubs and the grubs die spreading the spores. I will be mostly over-seeding with TTTF for that reason, grubs plus it's more drought tolerant. I don't have irrigation so I rely mostly on mother-nature and if necessary the hose when it gets bad. This year has been fantastic. Mother-nature has been plentiful with the rain. Only had a 2 week stretch in early/mid July when it got dry. Yea moisture wise it has been good keeping everything watered. Disease wise its been a disaster down here with extended leaf wetness and night temps struggling to get below 70 from about mid june till about a week or so ago.What also sucks, with all the rain down here we are noticing some crabgrass breakthrough. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CoastalWx Posted July 30, 2013 Share Posted July 30, 2013 if the crabgrass is sporadic like less than 25% coverage of your yard fertilizing it properly will make the grass fill in. Areas where there are good clumps of crabgrass that will leave decent sized bare areas i would seed. Is this the ground cover that you are talking about? This is the most common http://www.google.com/imgres?imgurl=http://extension.entm.purdue.edu/CAPS/pestInfo/pics/big/creepingCharlie1.jpg&imgrefurl=http://extension.entm.purdue.edu/CAPS/pestInfo/creepingCharlie.htm&h=194&w=259&sz=1&tbnid=QnO9q2hRa4n9AM:&tbnh=150&tbnw=200&zoom=1&usg=__o8Ahyh1Fd58uT32TtHK_72aBGjc=&docid=4oqM6qjmtN5zWM&itg=1&sa=X&ei=ncX3UbCuNLTD4APr-YCICg&ved=0CKoBEPwdMAo Yeah that looks like it. So fertilizing will help the grass grow in and smother out the crab grass? Should I do this now or wait until September? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
moneypitmike Posted July 30, 2013 Share Posted July 30, 2013 not in this area, but this is my front yard after i mowed it yesterday Good looking lawn! 3.5" cut? That's what I'm using these days. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tombo82685 Posted July 30, 2013 Share Posted July 30, 2013 Yeah that looks like it. So fertilizing will help the grass grow in and smother out the crab grass? Should I do this now or wait until September? You can fertilize at anytime, your other grass needs it. The best results won't be till the crabgrass is pretty much done. I wouldn't nuke the lawn with a quick release, go with a slow release fertilize or milorganite which is an organic fertilizer. Its made from manure it has an interesting smell but you can't burn a lawn with it. To help fill things in i would wait till mid to late september once the crabgrass slows and the cool season grasses have the upper hand. I would then come back in the spring and hit it again both with a quick release fertilizer. Then apply your dimension in may. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tombo82685 Posted July 30, 2013 Share Posted July 30, 2013 Good looking lawn! 3.5" cut? That's what I'm using these days. Yea, its about that. It has come a good ways since spring with fertilizing and constant broadleaf spot spraying. My issue is nimblewil its a bugger. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CoastalWx Posted July 30, 2013 Share Posted July 30, 2013 You can fertilize at anytime, your other grass needs it. The best results won't be till the crabgrass is pretty much done. I wouldn't nuke the lawn with a quick release, go with a slow release fertilize or milorganite which is an organic fertilizer. Its made from manure it has an interesting smell but you can't burn a lawn with it. To help fill things in i would wait till mid to late september once the crabgrass slows and the cool season grasses have the upper hand. I would then come back in the spring and hit it again both with a quick release fertilizer. Then apply your dimension in may. You da man, thanks a lot. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grinch1989 Posted July 30, 2013 Share Posted July 30, 2013 Some great discussion in here, but I don't think we talked about aerating and dethatching yet. I picked up a deal on a star wheel aerator (vs a plug one). I've read early fall is the best time to aerate, but I plan to start soon and often to try and bring back the areas of my yard that are hurting. I've read plugging is better, so maybe that ends up on my wish list. How about dethatching? I don't pick up my clippings (too much yard), so I'd imagine I have a thatch issue. But if I dethatch I guess I'd have to pick it all up or I defeat the purpose of dethatching? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TalcottWx Posted July 30, 2013 Share Posted July 30, 2013 Found this bad larry in the Busines school in a tree. Bald faced hornets. Scary looking guys. Very aggressive. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baroclinic Zone Posted July 30, 2013 Share Posted July 30, 2013 Found this bad larry in the Busines school in a tree. Bald faced hornets. Scary looking guys. Very aggressive. Fookin' break out the napalm torch on those. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TalcottWx Posted July 30, 2013 Share Posted July 30, 2013 Fookin' break out the napalm torch on those. it's funny, everyone in the company who I've showed it to is afraid to go near it. someone has to get rid of it and no one wants to be the person to do it, LOL Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
joey2002 Posted July 30, 2013 Share Posted July 30, 2013 it's funny, everyone in the company who I've showed it to is afraid to go near it. someone has to get rid of it and no one wants to be the person to do it, LOL Ouch are those also called white-faced hornets? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baroclinic Zone Posted July 30, 2013 Share Posted July 30, 2013 it's funny, everyone in the company who I've showed it to is afraid to go near it. someone has to get rid of it and no one wants to be the person to do it, LOL Um, hire a professional? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baroclinic Zone Posted July 30, 2013 Share Posted July 30, 2013 Ouch are those also called white-faced hornets? yes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TalcottWx Posted July 30, 2013 Share Posted July 30, 2013 Um, hire a professional? There is like 70 of us and the boss would have to do that, I'm not sure he even knows directly yet. One of my Salvadorian co workers does not want to tell him because "bees are holy". Let's just say I still reported the nest LOL Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
joey2002 Posted July 30, 2013 Share Posted July 30, 2013 There is like 70 of us and the boss would have to do that, I'm not sure he even knows directly yet. One of my Salvadorian co workers does not want to tell him because "bees are holy". Let's just say I still reported the nest LOL Kevin loves stirring up the beehive... maybe he can help? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grinch1989 Posted July 30, 2013 Share Posted July 30, 2013 Ouch are those also called white-faced hornets? I stepped on an in-ground white tail hornet nest when I was like 8...I'll never forget running and screaming trying to get back to my dad....wouldn't wish it on anyone... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
joey2002 Posted July 30, 2013 Share Posted July 30, 2013 I stepped on an in-ground white tail hornet nest when I was like 8...I'll never forget running and screaming trying to get back to my dad....wouldn't wish it on anyone... Yeah those things are the worst... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tombo82685 Posted July 30, 2013 Share Posted July 30, 2013 There is like 70 of us and the boss would have to do that, I'm not sure he even knows directly yet. One of my Salvadorian co workers does not want to tell him because "bees are holy". Let's just say I still reported the nest LOL get them in the morning they aren't that active...just get the foaming wasp/bee killer spray that shoots up to like 15 ft...shoot it into the entrance and that should do it. Then just knock the hive down, i prefer throwing a stick then running lol Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tombo82685 Posted July 30, 2013 Share Posted July 30, 2013 Some great discussion in here, but I don't think we talked about aerating and dethatching yet. I picked up a deal on a star wheel aerator (vs a plug one). I've read early fall is the best time to aerate, but I plan to start soon and often to try and bring back the areas of my yard that are hurting. I've read plugging is better, so maybe that ends up on my wish list. How about dethatching? I don't pick up my clippings (too much yard), so I'd imagine I have a thatch issue. But if I dethatch I guess I'd have to pick it all up or I defeat the purpose of dethatching? Clippings don't cause thatch, they are 70% water and decompose pretty fast. What causes thatch are rhizomes and stolons. If you have a turf cover that is warm season or blue grass then thatch could be an issue. Tall fescue and ryegrass are what they call bunch type grasses, they don't spread out with rhizomes or stolons. The way how they grow is tiller out from the crown. I have never aerated my lawn and it has done just fine. If you have the money and equipment to do it, by all means do it. Aerating helps get water and oxygen down into the root system and relieves compaction. You don't need a verticutter if you are coring. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
moneypitmike Posted July 30, 2013 Share Posted July 30, 2013 Yea, its about that. It has come a good ways since spring with fertilizing and constant broadleaf spot spraying. My issue is nimblewil its a bugger. I have Japanese Knot weed---that's just awful stuff. At leat now it's past their fastest growing season so a whole lot easier to keep in control. Found this bad larry in the Busines school in a tree. Bald faced hornets. Scary looking guys. Very aggressive. Just buy the cans of hornet/wasp killer. They shoot really far--at least far enough so you can get a quick exit before they know it was you. It's worked for us in any case. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tombo82685 Posted July 31, 2013 Share Posted July 31, 2013 I have Japanese Knot weed---that's just awful stuff. At leat now it's past their fastest growing season so a whole lot easier to keep in control. Knotweed is easy to get rid, just hit it with a broadleaf herbicide. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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