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Your 4th Annual Lawn Thread/ Tickle your Grass


Damage In Tolland

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Looking good, Bob.  Do you have a zero-turn?  I really wish I had one.  Lots of trees rocks and flower beds in my prime area to interfere with most of the 'long runs' on the 46" Deere--decent swath, but not very nimble.

  

Looks push mower ish from that pic

Thanks. I have Honda HRX Mower. Push mower w/ mulch blade.

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Any suggestions on how to get rid of crab grass in my newly seeded area?  The rest of the yard has no CB so the pre-emergent is doing its job there, but the new area didn't get any product of course.  Its seems like a lot of the post-emergent products don't work that well according to reviews...

 

http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_ss_sc_0_6?url=search-alias%3Daps&field-keywords=crabgrass%20killer&sprefix=crab+g%2Caps%2C137&rh=i%3Aaps%2Ck%3Acrabgrass%20killer

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Any suggestions on how to get rid of crab grass in my newly seeded area?  The rest of the yard has no CB so the pre-emergent is doing its job there, but the new area didn't get any product of course.  Its seems like a lot of the post-emergent products don't work that well according to reviews...

 

http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_ss_sc_0_6?url=search-alias%3Daps&field-keywords=crabgrass%20killer&sprefix=crab+g%2Caps%2C137&rh=i%3Aaps%2Ck%3Acrabgrass%20killer

acclaim, but its expensive

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I guess that's the stuff they put on things like highway ramps etc. cheap stuff. I was told that it's sh*t grass. I have some in the front.

 

Fescue is a good grass. It doesn't go dormant as fast as kbg. The older types of fescue the ones with the thick blades are crap. They have newer varieties called turf type tall fescue. We have fescue on all of bunker faces for drought tolerance and the fact that grubs won't devour it like they do for kbg and fine fescue. One down fall of tall fescue is it gets smoked with brown patch.

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you can try this one to, its cheaper...its a selective herbicide for grassy weeds...takes out crabgrass, quackgrass, goosegrass and more..We use this in or natural grass areas to rid of undesirable grassy weeds.

 

http://www.gemplers.com/product/G49785/Fusilade-II-Weed-Control-Herbicide-Post-emergent-1-qt#TAB-MSDS

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Fescue is a good grass. It doesn't go dormant as fast as kbg. The older types of fescue the ones with the thick blades are crap. They have newer varieties called turf type tall fescue. We have fescue on all of bunker faces for drought tolerance and the fact that grubs won't devour it like they do for kbg and fine fescue. One down fall of tall fescue is it gets smoked with brown patch.

I've been overseeding with TTTF. Like you said the newer varieties have a better appearance and they also are developing varieties that resist brown patch better. I've been using the NTEP site as a reference guide.

As for crabgrass and weeds in a Spring overseed, their is not much you can do. That's why it's best to do it in the Fall when the nights are cooler and you don't have to compete with the weed seeds.

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Fescue is a good grass. It doesn't go dormant as fast as kbg. The older types of fescue the ones with the thick blades are crap. They have newer varieties called turf type tall fescue. We have fescue on all of bunker faces for drought tolerance and the fact that grubs won't devour it like they do for kbg and fine fescue. One down fall of tall fescue is it gets smoked with brown patch.

 

Yeah the wide stuff does suck. Thanks for the tip with the tall fescue. I might not be able to get what I want done this year, but will remember for the spring.

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I've been overseeding with TTTF. Like you said the newer varieties have a better appearance and they also are developing varieties that resist brown patch better. I've been using the NTEP site as a reference guide.

As for crabgrass and weeds in a Spring overseed, their is not much you can do. That's why it's best to do it in the Fall when the nights are cooler and you don't have to compete with the weed seeds.

 

Unless you wan't to put some money out for herbicides, you are pretty much spot on. Fall time is ideal, with the cooler temps, less weed pressure, and higher soil temps which promote a faster germination.

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The nutsack killer from ortho was mostly ineffective. Had to use the straight grass/weed killer and then replant the area.

They have a herbicide strictly for nutsedge, without using glyphosate which you did. The nut sedge herbicide trade names are... manage, sedgehammer, pro sedge..they have a chemical with the active ingredient halosulfron. It will kill the nutsedge but it takes a couple weeks to do so.

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Unless you wan't to put some money out for herbicides, you are pretty much spot on. Fall time is ideal, with the cooler temps, less weed pressure, and higher soil temps which promote a faster germination.

Thanks again for the link above.  Ideally I would have waited for fall, but couldn't leave this area of the lawn bare for the spring/summer.  Unfortunately it looks like heavy overseeding will be needed come September.  I'm sure I'll have more questions then....

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That is some pretty solid turf there.. What do you use fertilizer wise?

Last year I was using Organics. Pelletized Alfalfa and CGM exclusively. Alfalfa works great. I also top-dressed and overseeded it. This year I went with Jonathan Green products. I have done 3 applications. I also put down their Mag-i-cal product. This Fall I plan on continuiung my top-dressing and overseeding.

www.jonathangreen.com

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Last year I was using Organics. Pelletized Alfalfa and CGM exclusively. Alfalfa works great. I also top-dressed and overseeded it. This year I went with Jonathan Green products. I have done 3 applications. I also put down their Mag-i-cal product. This Fall I plan on continuiung my top-dressing and overseeding.

www.jonathangreen.com

top dressing as in applying sand?

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