Baroclinic Zone Posted April 29, 2012 Share Posted April 29, 2012 Finished moving 4cuyd of topsoil. Lunch and a couple beers. I need a tonk more top soil to complete the job. Fingers crossed on the topdress/overseed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baroclinic Zone Posted April 29, 2012 Share Posted April 29, 2012 After all of you have thrown out pics of your Augusta National like lawns; I have a 50 year old house I recently purchased, and with a less than perfect lawn. The front of the yard is is small, and not very level, so I am going to attempt to relevel? I plan on using a roto tiller to turn the soil, rake it, and apply new soil as need. Then seed/and place hay on it; any suggestions???? How many sf? Make sure to work in some compost/organic matter into that when you till it. Will make a world of difference. Also choose a seed type that works for your lifestyle. I'm going with a tall fescue since they require less water and are more drought resistant than other types like a ky bleugrass. Good luck. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Damage In Tolland Posted April 29, 2012 Author Share Posted April 29, 2012 After all of you have thrown out pics of your Augusta National like lawns; I have a 50 year old house I recently purchased, and with a less than perfect lawn. The front of the yard is is small, and not very level, so I am going to attempt to relevel? I plan on using a roto tiller to turn the soil, rake it, and apply new soil as need. Then seed/and place hay on it; any suggestions???? Up to you, but I would not use any of the Organic stuff..it just doesn't work well,, is much more expensive, and requires much more time...But if you are into the green thing..then that is totally your call. I also would not use straw. It has tons of weeds in it, and when the new grass germinates it will come in with all kinds of weeds. After you level/rake, till the soil... then put down starter fertilizer..very important piece here...then put the seed down and rake it in..Cover it with 1/2 an inch of soil to hold the seed in.. make sure to get some high quality grass seed..If full sun..use sun mixture..if shady//use sun/shade combo.. rake it into the soil...and keep it moist at all times. The biggest people have growing grass is they don't keep the seed moist, and it either germinates spotty or not at all. Don't put any fertilizer with weed killer down until you've mowed the new seedlings 3x Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Modfan Posted April 29, 2012 Share Posted April 29, 2012 Up to you, but I would not use any of the Organic stuff..it just doesn't work well,, is much more expensive, and requires much more time...But if you are into the green thing..then that is totally your call. I also would not use straw. It has tons of weeds in it, and when the new grass germinates it will come in with all kinds of weeds. After you level/rake, till the soil... then put down starter fertilizer..very important piece here...then put the seed down and rake it in..Cover it with 1/2 an inch of soil to hold the seed in.. make sure to get some high quality grass seed..If full sun..use sun mixture..if shady//use sun/shade combo.. rake it into the soil...and keep it moist at all times. The biggest people have growing grass is they don't keep the seed moist, and it either germinates spotty or not at all. Don't put any fertilizer with weed killer down until you've mowed the new seedlings 3x Thanks. I am doing a 30x30 patch and another 16x16 on the other side of the front sidewalk. Not bad color in the 30x30 section, but I have a heave and then some dips, which I can't stand. Also fighting so tree roots, so I have my work cut out for me! Thanks for the tips Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HoarfrostHubb Posted April 29, 2012 Share Posted April 29, 2012 My lawn is a disaster. So much clay/hardpack. Parts of the lawn look good (already mowed that last weekend, could use another mow today). The rest is dry/dead looking with moss/weeds. It takes forever for that part to green up. Funny thing is the good looking stuff I never fertilize/seed/etc. It just "is". The other part I have pH'd the soil, tried skipping years of fertilizing (afraid of too much nitrogen, etc), put lots of fertilizer. You name it. 16+ years of monkeying around with it. Almost worth renting a bobcat and just starting over... ...maybe next year. Right now my big project is the backyard. We never use it because it is small and has too many trees/bushes/woods. I am in the process of taking down everything for 20' x 40' or so, to extend the yard with hopes of moving the pool back there. Lots of work to do... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HoarfrostHubb Posted April 29, 2012 Share Posted April 29, 2012 Bob, what does the alfalfa do? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baroclinic Zone Posted April 29, 2012 Share Posted April 29, 2012 Bob, what does the alfalfa do? Its a natural fertilizer. Its slow to break down and cheap. $20 for a 50# bag of the stuff. I just spread it by hand over the whole lawn. It swell with the rains and breaks apart. There are othe protein based meals you can add too. Soybean and cottonsead are the other 2. You can get these at most grain and feed supply stores. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clinch Leatherwood Posted April 29, 2012 Share Posted April 29, 2012 Its a natural fertilizer. Its slow to break down and cheap. $20 for a 50# bag of the stuff. I just spread it by hand over the whole lawn. It swell with the rains and breaks apart. There are othe protein based meals you can add too. Soybean and cottonsead are the other 2. You can get these at most grain and feed supply stores. Cool. BTW, my local Home Depot is now carrying the Scott's organic. http://www.scotts.com/smg/catalog/productTemplate.jsp?proId=prod100040&itemId=cat50034 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HoarfrostHubb Posted April 29, 2012 Share Posted April 29, 2012 Its a natural fertilizer. Its slow to break down and cheap. $20 for a 50# bag of the stuff. I just spread it by hand over the whole lawn. It swell with the rains and breaks apart. There are othe protein based meals you can add too. Soybean and cottonsead are the other 2. You can get these at most grain and feed supply stores. I went to Bay State Pet and Supply once last year. They probably sell it (on rte 44). Up herr I will try Agway Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baroclinic Zone Posted April 29, 2012 Share Posted April 29, 2012 I went to Bay State Pet and Supply once last year. They probably sell it (on rte 44). Up herr I will try Agway Both will have it. I get mine at ventura grain just outside downtown taunton on the raynham side. Tractor supply will have it as well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grinch1989 Posted April 30, 2012 Share Posted April 30, 2012 I have a grub and chinch bug problem every year and have a nice new bag of grubx ready to go down. My question is, when is the best time? Should I apply it more than once a year? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HoarfrostHubb Posted April 30, 2012 Share Posted April 30, 2012 I have a grub and chinch bug problem every year and have a nice new bag of grubx ready to go down. My question is, when is the best time? Should I apply it more than once a year? Spring to late summer Apply dry, then water it in Once per year (Blizz will say 4 times per year at triple to dose) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Damage In Tolland Posted April 30, 2012 Author Share Posted April 30, 2012 I have a grub and chinch bug problem every year and have a nice new bag of grubx ready to go down. My question is, when is the best time? Should I apply it more than once a year? Apply it around July 1st. Wait a few weeks..dig up a small area on lawn where it looks like grubs are..and see what you find..if you still seeing them .reapply one final time. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grinch1989 Posted April 30, 2012 Share Posted April 30, 2012 Spring to late summer Apply dry, then water it in Once per year (Blizz will say 4 times per year at triple to dose) Apply it around July 1st. Wait a few weeks..dig up a small area on lawn where it looks like grubs are..and see what you find..if you still seeing them .reapply one final time. Thanks guys. Someone else told me mid May which I thought was early. I let chinch bugs get out of control late last summer thinking a newly seeded area of my lawn was just browning up like it does in the summer. Only to find these suckers eating the grass roots. Now I'm trying to bring it back with a some fertilizer, but it looks like I'm in for a fall overseed in that area. I know when the grubs act up, I just look for massive amounts of black birds picking at my lawn! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rboarderi Posted April 30, 2012 Share Posted April 30, 2012 After all of you have thrown out pics of your Augusta National like lawns; I have a 50 year old house I recently purchased, and with a less than perfect lawn. The front of the yard is is small, and not very level, so I am going to attempt to relevel? I plan on using a roto tiller to turn the soil, rake it, and apply new soil as need. Then seed/and place hay on it; any suggestions???? If you are really interested in doing a proper renovation then check out this forum for more information than you could ever need! http://bestlawn.info/forum.html Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baroclinic Zone Posted April 30, 2012 Share Posted April 30, 2012 Bob, what does the alfalfa do? Here is what fertilizing with strictly alfalfa can do. http://forums.gardenweb.com/forums/load/orglawn/msg0317122723270.html?12 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ctsnowstorm628 Posted April 30, 2012 Share Posted April 30, 2012 Figured I'd mention this on here. On my numerous trips between CT and VT this Spring, I think it's wicked cool the advancement northward of fantastically lush, green grass. About two weeks ahead of budding/leafing trees.This is the best time of year for grass before the summer sun does a number on it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ELCwx Posted May 1, 2012 Share Posted May 1, 2012 Figured I'd mention this on here. On my numerous trips between CT and VT this Spring, I think it's wicked cool the advancement northward of fantastically lush, green grass. About two weeks ahead of budding/leafing trees.This is the best time of year for grass before the summer sun does a number on it. Lawn watering system ftw. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clinch Leatherwood Posted May 1, 2012 Share Posted May 1, 2012 I got about 5 weeks out of the organic I put down. It needs a redo now. Had one crabgrass explosion from the side hill but Ortho did a number on that. Going to try Bob's rabbit pellets this time. This rainy pattern we are in is good for the lawns. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baroclinic Zone Posted May 2, 2012 Share Posted May 2, 2012 I got about 5 weeks out of the organic I put down. It needs a redo now. Had one crabgrass explosion from the side hill but Ortho did a number on that. Going to try Bob's rabbit pellets this time. This rainy pattern we are in is good for the lawns. Yesterday would have been the best time to put them down. I've used the Milorganite before. So so results. Its actually treated sewerage from Milwaukee. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
S&P Posted May 2, 2012 Share Posted May 2, 2012 I got about 5 weeks out of the organic I put down. It needs a redo now. Had one crabgrass explosion from the side hill but Ortho did a number on that. Going to try Bob's rabbit pellets this time. This rainy pattern we are in is good for the lawns. too early for crabgrass (this season?), it likes the heat Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baroclinic Zone Posted May 2, 2012 Share Posted May 2, 2012 too early for crabgrass (this season?), it likes the heat Can't speak sor Scott's location down there but I have not seen any crabgrass around my yard. It is too ealy for it. This is usually the time the seeds start to germinate though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ginx snewx Posted May 2, 2012 Share Posted May 2, 2012 Getting there on full leaf out but its seems progress has halted. Do not know the tree species(oaks maybe) but there are full stands of leafless trees in these views from the top of the Mashantucket Museums observation tower. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baroclinic Zone Posted May 2, 2012 Share Posted May 2, 2012 Here is what fertilizing with strictly alfalfa can do. http://forums.garden...2723270.html?12 More Dehydrated Alfalfa info. http://alfalfagreen.ca/WAMCO-AG%20on%20Turfgrass.pdf Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clinch Leatherwood Posted May 2, 2012 Share Posted May 2, 2012 too early for crabgrass (this season?), it likes the heat I wish...part of this is that there's an area that's technically not my property that gets overgrown because nobody cares for it. It becomes crabgrass central in the summer. Lots of crabgrass was still there from the last season. Soon as it found the trail of fertilizer it worked it's way into the yard. It's actually kind of cool to see how it spreads, looks like the pod people from Invasion of the Body Snatchers. I think the beach version of crab grass is a bit different than what you see. I'll take a photo and post. It's totally impervious to anything but the ortho weed b gon. Everything else just seems to annoy it, it's very resilient. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr Torchey Posted May 2, 2012 Share Posted May 2, 2012 I wish...part of this is that there's an area that's technically not my property that gets overgrown because nobody cares for it. It becomes crabgrass central in the summer. Lots of crabgrass was still there from the last season. Soon as it found the trail of fertilizer it worked it's way into the yard. It's actually kind of cool to see how it spreads, looks like the pod people from Invasion of the Body Snatchers. I think the beach version of crab grass is a bit different than what you see. I'll take a photo and post. It's totally impervious to anything but the ortho weed b gon. Everything else just seems to annoy it, it's very resilient. sounds like manila grass a type of zoysia, I have never seen crabrass before july. Take a pic, really interested to see it, take one close up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HoarfrostHubb Posted May 2, 2012 Share Posted May 2, 2012 Yesterday would have been the best time to put them down. I've used the Milorganite before. So so results. Its actually treated sewerage from Milwaukee. Also known as Old Milwaukee, or in some regions, Milwaukee's Best Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baroclinic Zone Posted May 2, 2012 Share Posted May 2, 2012 Also known as Old Milwaukee, or in some regions, Milwaukee's Best Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
moneypitmike Posted May 3, 2012 Share Posted May 3, 2012 Two questions for the lawn geniuses here. 1. What's the protocal for mowing after overseeding? 2. Any advice on how to rid yourself of Japanese knotweed? I'm beginning to think I'm going to have to put down a landscape cover and then get a ton of loam to cover it and start a whole new lawn. I suppose the other option is to just clear the whole area, get a ton of loam and start from scratch. Plan B has its benefits as that would also clear out a ton of smallish and several larger stumps left over from some of clearing expeditions. But I expect that could costs some bucks I'm reluctant to fork over. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
S&P Posted May 3, 2012 Share Posted May 3, 2012 I wish...part of this is that there's an area that's technically not my property that gets overgrown because nobody cares for it. It becomes crabgrass central in the summer. Lots of crabgrass was still there from the last season. Soon as it found the trail of fertilizer it worked it's way into the yard. It's actually kind of cool to see how it spreads, looks like the pod people from Invasion of the Body Snatchers. I think the beach version of crab grass is a bit different than what you see. I'll take a photo and post. It's totally impervious to anything but the ortho weed b gon. Everything else just seems to annoy it, it's very resilient. after i posted, i thought maybe there is crabgrass this early (even though old growth goes dormant in the fall) with the mild winter and lack of a deep frost here by the water, weeds and some of my annuals never died off. walking my dogs yesterday i noticed that crab grass was actively growing next to the pavement. suspect the added warmth from the pavement has something to do with that.only solution i have found is pre emergent and pulling by hand whatever grows Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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