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March Obs/Disco Thread


H2O

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Technically the solar panel on the Davis doesn't charge the battery. It juices up a capacitor which provides short term power. When it depletes on say cloudy days or at night, the battery provides backup power. They can run 6-9 months on just the battery. Mine is in the shade a lot during winter and I have to replace the battery in that time frame.

As far as placement, the radiation shield should handle normal solar heating....just don't put it on your roof above the shingles..

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Technically the solar panel on the Davis doesn't charge the battery. It juices up a capacitor which provides short term power. When it depletes on say cloudy days or at night, the battery provides backup power. They can run 6-9 months on just the battery. Mine is in the shade a lot during winter and I have to replace the battery in that time frame.

As far as placement, the radiation shield should handle normal solar heating....just don't put it on your roof above the shingles..

Good info, thanks.

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If you have a good solar radiation shield, you don't need to have it in the shade.

Are you KMDFREDE26 ?

No, it definitely should be in the sun. It has a radiation shield and it needs the solar panel to charge the battery. What is your temp?

I am KMDFREDE26 on wunderground. I checked over lunch and it was 89F. Max shows it hit 90.5 today. This appears to be very accurate for me on cloudy days, winter sun, and nights. It has the radiation shield but many have said it only helps a tad. The Pro has the fan which helps a lot more. But like you said...the panel is needed for the capacitor. Perhaps the fence is providing too much radiation as opposed to it being in the middle of my yard? That is one problem with townhouses...move one place to get better temps and you risk incorrect rain estimates cause of potential splash off trees. Here is a pic from November (yes that is a palm...while most of this board wishes for cold, I've given into reality that our winters aren't really that cold. 3 winters already :))

a507e594.jpg

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I am KMDFREDE26 on wunderground. I checked over lunch and it was 89F. Max shows it hit 90.5 today. This appears to be very accurate for me on cloudy days, winter sun, and nights. It has the radiation shield but many have said it only helps a tad. The Pro has the fan which helps a lot more. Back like you said...I need the solar panel. Perhaps the fence is providing too much radiation as opposed to in the middle of my yard. That is one problem with townhouses...move one place to get better temps and you risk incorrect rain estimates cause of potential splash off trees. Here is a pic from November (yes that is palm...while most of this board wishes for cold, I've given into reality that our winters aren't really that cold. 3 winters already :))

a507e594.jpg

I like your set up there. I am wanting to get a station this spring/summer and mount it off of my deck that is be installed. Will keep this in mind.

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I like your set up there. I am wanting to get a station this spring/summer and mount it off of my deck that is be installed. Will keep this in mind.

Thanks. Like I said before, never go by my wind measurements. I'm really protected back here especially from northerly winds. I got this for about $260 + $29 for the bracket. The plastic piece of garbage Weather Channel is $100. not even close in my opinion.

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I am KMDFREDE26 on wunderground. I checked over lunch and it was 89F. Max shows it hit 90.5 today. This appears to be very accurate for me on cloudy days, winter sun, and nights. It has the radiation shield but many have said it only helps a tad. The Pro has the fan which helps a lot more. But like you said...the panel is needed for the capacitor. Perhaps the fence is providing too much radiation as opposed to in the middle of my yard. That is one problem with townhouses...move one place to get better temps and you risk incorrect rain estimates cause of potential splash off trees. Here is a pic from November (yes that is palm...while most of this board wishes for cold, I've given into reality that our winters aren't really that cold. 3 winters already :))

Can't say for sure, but the fence probably isn't helping. If I take your solar panel to be facing south, the sun will be beating on both the fence and the dark mulch, and convection will send that upward. Obviously it depends on your HOA/neighbors and your own personal taste, but I think I'd put it a little over the fence height to get it more in the free air. If that isn't a thing, you might be able to concoct something to angle the station a little away from the fence.

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I am KMDFREDE26 on wunderground.  I checked over lunch and it was 89F.  Max shows it hit 90.5 today.  This appears to be very accurate for me on cloudy days, winter sun, and nights.  It has the radiation shield but many have said it only helps a tad.  The Pro has the fan which helps a lot more.  But like you said...the panel is needed for the capacitor.  Perhaps the fence is providing too much radiation as opposed to it being in the middle of my yard?  That is one problem with townhouses...move one place to get better temps and you risk incorrect rain estimates cause of potential splash off trees. Here is a pic from November (yes that is a palm...while most of this board wishes for cold, I've given into reality that our winters aren't really that cold.  3 winters already :))

a507e594.jpg

Very nice. It's possible that the fence is providing some of the extra heat that you are seeing. I'm looking forward to having mine up long enough to determine when it is acting funny. Hopefully, since I have it mounted away from everything it will be pretty accurate. The only wind obstruction is the house and a magnolia tree nearby

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I am KMDFREDE26 on wunderground. I checked over lunch and it was 89F. Max shows it hit 90.5 today. This appears to be very accurate for me on cloudy days, winter sun, and nights. It has the radiation shield but many have said it only helps a tad. The Pro has the fan which helps a lot more. But like you said...the panel is needed for the capacitor. Perhaps the fence is providing too much radiation as opposed to it being in the middle of my yard? That is one problem with townhouses...move one place to get better temps and you risk incorrect rain estimates cause of potential splash off trees. Here is a pic from November (yes that is a palm...while most of this board wish for cold, I've given into reality that our winters aren't really that cold. 3 winters already :))

No wonder its running hot. You need to raise it higher so that the radiation shield (white circle thing below the anemometer) is ABOVE the fence line and in good wind flow. If the air is stagnant around the sensor it will run hot. It will also help with your rain collection as the rain drops won't be deflected by the fence.

BTW are you using the weaherlinkIP or the USB cable straight from the console to upload your obs?

I ask because because I have an original Vantage Pro (kickin' it old school) and within the past month or so the compactor has gone bad. Problem is that I am at college and I can't maintain the station every week. I'm thinking of replacing it with a vue with a weatherlink IP so the computer doesn't have to be on 24/7 while I'm gone.

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No wonder its running hot. You need to raise it higher so that the radiation shield (white circle thing below the anemometer) is ABOVE the fence line and in good wind flow. If the air is stagnant around the sensor it will run hot. It will also help with your rain collection as the rain drops won't be deflected by the fence.

BTW are you using the weaherlinkIP or the USB cable straight from the console to upload your obs?

I ask because because I have an original Vantage Pro (kickin' it old school) and within the past month or so the compactor has gone bad. Problem is that I am at college and I can't maintain the station every week. I'm thinking of replacing it with a vue with a weatherlink IP so the computer doesn't have to be on 24/7 while I'm gone.

The only warning I can give on weatherlinkIP is that if you've previously had it running through the computer, you will miss the rapidfire and being able to set your intervals. 15 minutes was too long for me, but I obsessively check it. The big advantage of course is to not have to rely on a PC. Can't tell you how annoyed I get when Microsoft reboots after an update and the program doesn't load correctly upon startup.

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The only warning I can give on weatherlinkIP is that if you've previously had it running through the computer, you will miss the rapidfire and being able to set your intervals.  15 minutes was too long for me, but I obsessively check it.  The big advantage of course is to not have to rely on a PC.  Can't tell you how annoyed I get when Microsoft reboots after an update and the program doesn't load correctly upon startup.

That happened to me this morning. Tonights check list includes adding in the software to my computers startup routine to make sure it reopens the programs needed.

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That happened to me this morning. Tonights check list includes adding in the software to my computers startup routine to make sure it reopens the programs needed.

Yeah, that is an important thing to do. On mine, I'd say it starts up correctly maybe 75% of the time now, but for whatever reason it will occasionally still miss. Sometimes when I notice the update I'll just install and force it down rather than wait for the automatic reboot.

82.4 after a high of 83.5. Really impressive for March 15th.

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BTW are you using the weaherlinkIP or the USB cable straight from the console to upload your obs?

USB from console to a dedicated computer. I too thought 15 min was too long plus I understand certain data like wind gusts are not sent via the IP. Def go with USB if you can.

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I've been in Orlando this week and the local news said DC will be warmer than Orlando most of this week and that peak cherry blossoms will happen by end of March. I still wouldn't complain about the weather here. :) Looks like I need to get my thermometer re-sited if I want accurate summer temps! Mine showed 89F when I looked. Most FDK obs are about 81 or 82.

I heard on the radio this a.m. that peak for the blossoms in DC is now expected between March 20th-23rd. That has to be the earliest I can ever recall.

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I heard on the radio this a.m. that peak for the blossoms in DC is now expected between March 20th-23rd. That has to be the earliest I can ever recall.

I think 2000 (18th) is earliest since they kept records but 1990 was the 15th for peak.

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The only warning I can give on weatherlinkIP is that if you've previously had it running through the computer, you will miss the rapidfire and being able to set your intervals. 15 minutes was too long for me, but I obsessively check it. The big advantage of course is to not have to rely on a PC. Can't tell you how annoyed I get when Microsoft reboots after an update and the program doesn't load correctly upon startup.

I use VWS software to send out my data to CWOP and update my website. VWS tends to crash or quit updating at the worst times...usually in the middle of the night or on the first day of a weeks vacation. It's frustrating when you can't get anyone interested enough to go and reboot it for me...lol...especially the wife or kids when I'm out of town. I guess they just don't see the need to have it running 24/7 like a true weather enthusiast. :(

Watching you tube videos tends to crash VWS for some reason too. Other times it will run for weeks without locking up..go figure.

I think it's time for a new computer though.

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Technically the solar panel on the Davis doesn't charge the battery. It juices up a capacitor which provides short term power. When it depletes on say cloudy days or at night, the battery provides backup power. They can run 6-9 months on just the battery. Mine is in the shade a lot during winter and I have to replace the battery in that time frame.

As far as placement, the radiation shield should handle normal solar heating....just don't put it on your roof above the shingles..

I have had my VP2 in the yard for five-and-a-half years and it has worked flawlessly. I've never lost signal, nor have I had to change the battery. I am fortunate that I have a good siting with full southern exposure year-round.

The white circle in the top-left center of this pic is where the unit is located. Its more than twice the distance of the height of all surrounding objects. The small circle on the roof of the house is the mount for the anemometer, which rises 7' above the pinnacle of the roof to achieve the 10m. The only time I get cheated somewhat is on an ENE wind, when the tall tree to the right of the front of the house seems to shield the wind somewhat.

post-116-0-16623400-1331844589.jpg

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I have had my VP2 in the yard for five-and-a-half years and it has worked flawlessly. I've never lost signal, nor have I had to change the battery. I am fortunate that I have a good siting with full southern exposure year-round.

The white circle in the top-left center of this pic is where the unit is located. Its more than twice the distance of the height of all surrounding objects. The small circle on the roof of the house is the mount for the anemometer, which rises 7' above the pinnacle of the roof to achieve the 10m. The only time I get cheated somewhat is on an ENE wind, when the tall tree to the right of the front of the house seems to shield the wind somewhat.

Amazing on the battery life. The VP 2 itself has never failed me, running since August of 2006. It's the VWS software that's buggy. I usually get a low battery warning way before the VP 2 quits. The data is stored in the weather link dongle inside the console and it automatically downloads into VWS when I reboot after a lockup. I've never lost data except when it crashes right at midnight, then it doesn't save the daily file right. I have to go in and edit the data file.

By the way, nice pool, but a lot of grass to cut.

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