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Lawn/Garden/Golf Thread


tombo82685

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Tombo,

My lettuce is still alive after a 16F morning. I'm not eating it.

I golfed at the executive course in Voorhees on Tuesday, don't think I'll be doing that this Tuesday.:yikes:

tony, but think about it. The ground will be water logged after the rain, then we get the cold, ground becomes rock. Your drives that were once 200 yds now become 250-275 yd drives. Only issue is you may have to aim severely left or right of the green just to get it on the green with the wind.

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tony, but think about it. The ground will be water logged after the rain, then we get the cold, ground becomes rock. Your drives that were once 200 yds now become 250-275 yd drives. Only issue is you may have to aim severely left or right of the green just to get it on the green with the wind.

I did the whole wind thing last Tuesday which wasn't really that bad, only way I can see myself golfing is maybe Monday if the gradient doesn't tighten too quickly. Kresson is a small course and tree lined, its the least windiest golf course in South Jersey I know. Plus its so short, I can do 18 holes in a little over two hours and then stop shivering. If I had Thursday/Friday off before it snowed or decides not to snow, that would be a day, but I don't. Tomorrow would not be that bad either, no wind, but I'm working again. I just need it to snow so I can go do something I'm even worse at, bowling.

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I did the whole wind thing last Tuesday which wasn't really that bad, only way I can see myself golfing is maybe Monday if the gradient doesn't tighten too quickly. Kresson is a small course and tree lined, its the least windiest golf course in South Jersey I know. Plus its so short, I can do 18 holes in a little over two hours and then stop shivering. If I had Thursday/Friday off before it snowed or decides not to snow, that would be a day, but I don't. Tomorrow would not be that bad either, no wind, but I'm working again. I just need it to snow so I can go do something I'm even worse at, bowling.

You guys are hardcore, still playing golf this time of the year. thumbsupsmileyanim.gif Golf is but a distant memory here, we're running a -12º departure through the first 9 days of December...plus the snowcover, but I don't want to rub that in too much. ;) I think my last round this year was the first week of November. Needless to say, my clubs are cleaned and stored until sometime next March...hopefully.

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I did the whole wind thing last Tuesday which wasn't really that bad, only way I can see myself golfing is maybe Monday if the gradient doesn't tighten too quickly. Kresson is a small course and tree lined, its the least windiest golf course in South Jersey I know. Plus its so short, I can do 18 holes in a little over two hours and then stop shivering. If I had Thursday/Friday off before it snowed or decides not to snow, that would be a day, but I don't. Tomorrow would not be that bad either, no wind, but I'm working again. I just need it to snow so I can go do something I'm even worse at, bowling.

whats the par and total yds?

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Does it work? I'd think ...

1) the ground is frozen solid, so you can't rake in

2) the birds and squirels would eat the seed

3) would anything germinate this time of year?

usually they do it a little later in the season. Put it like this, when you get a frost or freeze then it thaws and freezes. When water enters a soil profile and freezes the soil columns expands thus you get cracks in the soil, the seed is laying on the soil surface,if u get a rain it will fall in or through other disturbances. There you get your seed to the soil contact, after the constant freeze and thaw the cracks are eventually going to fill in with soil and debris, while new ones open. Once spring comes and the soil temperature provoke germination usually above 50 that seed can sprout. Think of it like a bridge or concrete they put those expansion joints in cause of the freeze and thaw.

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usually they do it a little later in the season. Put it like this, when you get a frost or freeze then it thaws and freezes. When water enters a soil profile and freezes the soil columns expands thus you get cracks in the soil, the seed is laying on the soil surface,if u get a rain it will fall in or through other disturbances. There you get your seed to the soil contact, after the constant freeze and thaw the cracks are eventually going to fill in with soil and debris, while new ones open. Once spring comes and the soil temperature provoke germination usually above 50 that seed can sprout. Think of it like a bridge or concrete they put those expansion joints in cause of the freeze and thaw.

Never would have though of that. I meant to put some seed down this fall but never got around to it. What the heck, I'll give it a shot.

Thanks for the tip!

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Never would have though of that. I meant to put some seed down this fall but never got around to it. What the heck, I'll give it a shot.

Thanks for the tip!

i would wait till mid february...the longer seed sits around it gets outdated and the germination rates go down.....let me know how it works i have never tried it.

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I use seed that has been coated doesn't rot as easy. This was the perfect time, ground frozen solid and a nice warmup with rain .Just enough to have the seed sink in before the next freeze. Tombo is right, seed heavier than normal. I buy the seed when it's on sale during the spring. Been doing it for years. Now my friends do it as you have less loss from squirrels and birds and the results are amazing. biggrin.gif

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I use seed that has been coated doesn't rot as easy. This was the perfect time, ground frozen solid and a nice warmup with rain .Just enough to have the seed sink in before the next freeze. Tombo is right, seed heavier than normal. I buy the seed when it's on sale during the spring. Been doing it for years. Now my friends do it as you have less loss from squirrels and birds and the results are amazing. biggrin.gif

I have a lot of dead patches after this summer's drought. If the forecasts for a warm January are correct, that might be a good time to put down seed. I'll look for the coated seed and let you guy know in April how things turn out.

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Par 68, 4800 yards from the tips. Really should be a par 62. They have two par "4"s that are around 200 yards. I remember reading the PGA Partners Magazine in their hole-in-one section someone submitted his "double eagle"/"albatross" hole-in-one on one of those par 4s.

yea we have one of those courses in my area. Longest hole is 212. Majority of the holes are 150-180, i think its technically a par 3 course.

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yea we have one of those courses in my area. Longest hole is 212. Majority of the holes are 150-180, i think its technically a par 3 course.

There used to be a par 3 course in Cheltenham (Cedarbrook?), I don't know if its just 9 holes or closed completely. I read condos were being built on it. It was a nice course, had holes from 60 to 240 yards. Kresson (Voorhees) three par 5s are just about legitimate, I never have been on in two. The par 4(s) are short, plus they have a couple of sub 100 yard par 3(s). On most regular golf courses, I'm still out at least 100 yards for my third shot into par 5(s). Hey that Euro bomb, I traced the short wave all the way back to Kamchatka, the GFS didn't initialize it as strongly as the Euro. :snowman:

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Tom I haven't put down winterizer yet. I am concerned that adding any nitrogen when I was ravaged by red thread and brown patch this past spring/summer will only help those fungus get another foot hold come spring.

My lawn is new (seeded in early summer 2008) and I wanted to know your thoughts on me skipping winterizer?

TIA

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Oddly enough, going to break out the mower one last time today. Still have pestering leaves in areas of the yard and the last street pickup was yesterday. Won't hurt to mulch those leaves into the lawn anyway.

It will help tremendously. One of the best things you can do for your lawn. Bagging/blowing leaves are a huge, huge waste of time/resources.

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Tom I haven't put down winterizer yet. I am concerned that adding any nitrogen when I was ravaged by red thread and brown patch this past spring/summer will only help those fungus get another foot hold come spring.

My lawn is new (seeded in early summer 2008) and I wanted to know your thoughts on me skipping winterizer?

TIA

you should get a soil test to see what you need to put down for your dormant feed.

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Tom I haven't put down winterizer yet. I am concerned that adding any nitrogen when I was ravaged by red thread and brown patch this past spring/summer will only help those fungus get another foot hold come spring.

My lawn is new (seeded in early summer 2008) and I wanted to know your thoughts on me skipping winterizer?

TIA

Red thread is a low nitrogen disease actually, while brown patch is high nitrogen. Once brown patch has invaded your yard expect it every yr basically. Honestly, you might be past the time for winterizer, usually you want to put it down around the thanksgiving time frame where the top growth has stopped growing but the root system is still growing. With the cold temps we had last 2 weeks the soil temps are pretty cold, so it would be pointless now.

Red thread is unsightly, but it doesnt totally kill the grass, its more aesthetically unpleasing. Brown patch will though killl your turf. The best way of keeping your yard rid of brown patch or red thread without chemicals is watching your nitrogen fertilization. There are also other means of controlling it, like selecting a turf that is not as prone to brown patch, correct hoc, limiting leaf wetness, removing 1/3 of the turf when you mow, having a sharp mower blade. Taking a soil test like greenskeeper said is a good starting point. Granted it won't show you how much nitrogen you will need, it will tell you your pH, phosphorus, and potassium levels. Having a pH withing the 6.5-7 is what you shot for, this is where most of the elements in the soil are available to the turf, when its below this the elements start decreasing availability. Also, some turf diseases prosper in lower pH conditions than others.

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It will help tremendously. One of the best things you can do for your lawn. Bagging/blowing leaves are a huge, huge waste of time/resources.

I always mulch the leaves in to the lawn. I agree its a waist of time to bag them and why waist the soil building / nutrients properties of the leaves. Another good use of them is put them in a pile somewhere if you have the space and turn them every now and then. Makes great topsoil.

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I always mulch the leaves in to the lawn. I agree its a waist of time to bag them and why waist the soil building / nutrients properties of the leaves. Another good use of them is put them in a pile somewhere if you have the space and turn them every now and then. Makes great topsoil.

i have seen people mulch them up with a lawn morwer or mulcher and use them as mulch instead of the traditional mulch

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It will help tremendously. One of the best things you can do for your lawn. Bagging/blowing leaves are a huge, huge waste of time/resources.

I have always cleared the leaves away because in the past I have read that decaying leaves are acidic and bad for soil pH. I'm no expert so I am wondering now after reading what some of you have said here, since you seem to be more up on this than I am.

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I have always cleared the leaves away because in the past I have read that decaying leaves are acidic and bad for soil pH. I'm no expert so I am wondering now after reading what some of you have said here, since you seem to be more up on this than I am.

i've never heard of leaves being acidic, not saying they aren't i just haven't heard of it. I know pine needles or anything coming from an evergreen is.

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