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Lawn/Garden/Golf Thread


tombo82685

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Very happy I didn't seed and/or fertilize yet. The last line that passed over us around 11PM would have certainly washed whatever was left of it away.

I just raked the entire lawn this AM and fertilized. First mow slated for Friday..bring on the warmer temps and green grass.

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Let me ask my lawn question again, since I failed to ask the most important part. So, re-seeded last fall, still no new growth, my lawn is a muddy mess. I assume I should have seen some new growth by now, yes? Seeded a little late, and seeds just laid on top of the soil until the first snow... I'm planting the tomatoes today, seems like theres little risk of a freeze going forward. Many thanks.

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Let me ask my lawn question again, since I failed to ask the most important part. So, re-seeded last fall, still no new growth, my lawn is a muddy mess. I assume I should have seen some new growth by now, yes? Seeded a little late, and seeds just laid on top of the soil until the first snow... I'm planting the tomatoes today, seems like theres little risk of a freeze going forward. Many thanks.

well, yea you should of seen some growth. It sounds like you seeded a little to late. Optimum soil temp for grass germination is 55-70, once below that seeds take longer to germinate and even colder they will just lay there. Roots on a grass plant though can still continue to grow, thats what a winterizer fertilizer is for. How bad is your yard when you say muddy mess, can you take a pic?

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well, yea you should of seen some growth. It sounds like you seeded a little to late. Optimum soil temp for grass germination is 55-70, once below that seeds take longer to germinate and even colder they will just lay there. Roots on a grass plant though can still continue to grow, thats what a winterizer fertilizer is for. How bad is your yard when you say muddy mess, can you take a pic?

This is pretty representative. Picture an acre of this.

post-1895-0-77613400-1303677711.jpg

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This is pretty representative. Picture an acre of this.

ahhh i see...well what i would do, since it looks like you have less than 50 percent grass coverage is just round up everything. Then set your lawn mower down to the lowest it can go and cut it to the ground, then scarify the soil and throw seed down, roll it and water it so its moist 24/7 apply some starter. now its your option if you want to break it into sections, or wait till fall or now. If you do it now, you're going to have heavy weed pressure. If you don't decide to tackle till fall, i would put down crabgrass preventer asap, or that is going to go nuts with the other broadleafs.

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ahhh i see...well what i would do, since it looks like you have less than 50 percent grass coverage is just round up everything. Then set your lawn mower down to the lowest it can go and cut it to the ground, then scarify the soil and throw seed down, roll it and water it so its moist 24/7 apply some starter. now its your option if you want to break it into sections, or wait till fall or now. If you do it now, you're going to have heavy weed pressure. If you don't decide to tackle till fall, i would put down crabgrass preventer asap, or that is going to go nuts with the other broadleafs.

he's screwed doing anything in the spring, like an uphill battle.

He could also rent a slit seeder and go 3 directions.

As you mentioned, he's going to have heavy weed pressure and is better off waiting until fall.

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Over the phone he made it sound as though it was a liquid with the "fine mist" comment, but he did say it needed a quarter inch of water anyway.

crabgrass stuff you always need to water in, that most likely was granular. The fertilizer and herbicide were most likely liquid. You should have about 4 hours of dry period for the herbicide. The fertilizer should be fine.

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crabgrass stuff you always need to water in, that most likely was granular. The fertilizer and herbicide were most likely liquid. You should have about 4 hours of dry period for the herbicide. The fertilizer should be fine.

OK, so the crabgrass preventer and fertilizer should be fine. The good thing is he told me if I don't see the weed die in the next several days (I don't have many to begin with) they come back for free. Good stuff.

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i mow mine every 2-3 days to follow the 1/3 rule

With the price of gas moewing that much will make ya broke quickly. I am slowly doing yard work, just have to be careful of the bee's yellow jackets, wasps and hornets as i am deathly allergic. So i have to do it when it gets closer to dark night.

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With the price of gas moewing that much will make ya broke quickly. I am slowly doing yard work, just have to be careful of the bee's yellow jackets, wasps and hornets as i am deathly allergic. So i have to do it when it gets closer to dark night.

I imagine the early morning would be best, when its still cool... as cold blooded organisms, insects are least likely to be active during the coldest part of the day.

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I'm not a lawn person... what's the 1/3 rule?

your not suppose to take off more than 1/3 of the grass blade with every mowing you do. When people mow their lawn down to like a stub they do it so they don't have to mow it so frequently. Granted this is true, but in turf, the lower you mow the more frequent you have to cut it for a healthy grass stand. The lower the height of cut, the more you have to mow.

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I imagine the early morning would be best, when its still cool... as cold blooded organisms, insects are least likely to be active during the coldest part of the day.

No, actually they are very active at that time. One of the reasons why you should never, ever spray pesticide in a veggie garden in the morning, but spray it in the evening when they are least active.

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No, actually they are very active at that time. One of the reasons why you should never, ever spray pesticide in a veggie garden in the morning, but spray it in the evening when they are least active.

That seems strange. What is the reasoning for them being so active during the coolest part of the day?

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Tombo,

I fertilized a few weeks ago as you said about a 1/3 of what scotts recommended and the grass looks awesome.

There are a few spots that are not brown but there is like a little rusting of the blades of grass. Do I add more fertilizer?? rake out? What do you think?

Thanks,

Rossi

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Tombo,

I fertilized a few weeks ago as you said about a 1/3 of what scotts recommended and the grass looks awesome.

There are a few spots that are not brown but there is like a little rusting of the blades of grass. Do I add more fertilizer?? rake out? What do you think?

Thanks,

Rossi

what do you mean by rusting? Do you have a pic?

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I fertilized with Scotts 2 weeks ago, the crabgrass stuff, combine that with the overseeding/dethatching and all the works this fall, and the grass looks the best it has since I bought the house. In fact, with all the rain this week, I had to set the mower on the 2nd highest setting. Will have to re-mow Sunday. Don't have the time to mow every 3-4 days, but man, in one week the grass took off.

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