tombo82685 Posted March 6, 2011 Author Share Posted March 6, 2011 Yeah this will turn into one hell of a project in the long run, as i will be also cementing the perimeter of the back yard due to our dogs and preventing them on escaping when we leave them have free run of the whole back yard. What size pipe should i use? what grothar said was fine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ralph Wiggum Posted March 7, 2011 Share Posted March 7, 2011 Howdy all! So are there any pet-friendly preemergents out there? I read that corn gluten is a good all-natural substitute: "The 8.81% insoluble nitrogen and 1.19% water soluble nitrogen in Corn Gluten makes it an excellent slow release fertilizer and winterizer as well. Since it is slow release, it will feed your lawn over a long period of time. " Are there others that also work effectively and should they be applied at the same time as a synthetic fertilizer? Thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tombo82685 Posted March 7, 2011 Author Share Posted March 7, 2011 Howdy all! So are there any pet-friendly preemergents out there? I read that corn gluten is a good all-natural substitute: "The 8.81% insoluble nitrogen and 1.19% water soluble nitrogen in Corn Gluten makes it an excellent slow release fertilizer and winterizer as well. Since it is slow release, it will feed your lawn over a long period of time. " Are there others that also work effectively and should they be applied at the same time as a synthetic fertilizer? Thanks. Steve, i have never heard of a dog getting sick from fertilizer, honestly. Unless he/she eats the soil it will be fine. In terms of your question, corn gluten works by, the seed in the grown grows, but the gluten doesn't allow the plant to grown roots, thus it dies shortly after it emerges. Problem with this is you have to put down a good amount of the product and its exspensive as is all organic fertilizers. To you second question, i wouldn't put the gluten(if you decide to go with that) down with the other synthetics. There really is no reason in putting down to fertilizers in at the same time. I don't know if there is another organic fert/pre emege combo besides gluten. There are other organic fertilizers that are good though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Parsley Posted March 8, 2011 Share Posted March 8, 2011 That heavy rain and mild weather yesterday really pushed the daffodils and tulips up through the ground and mulch around here. Also crocus are blooming. Too bad the yard is a muddy mess. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JTA66 Posted March 12, 2011 Share Posted March 12, 2011 Does grass seed have a shelf life? I have some left over from a bag I bought about 2 years ago. Would I be wasting my time if I use it or should I start fresh with a brand new bag? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tombo82685 Posted March 12, 2011 Author Share Posted March 12, 2011 Does grass seed have a shelf life? I have some left over from a bag I bought about 2 years ago. Would I be wasting my time if I use it or should I start fresh with a brand new bag? yes, grass seed has a a shelf life. I would throw it and get a new bag. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JTA66 Posted March 12, 2011 Share Posted March 12, 2011 Thanks, Tom. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BucksCO_PA Posted March 15, 2011 Share Posted March 15, 2011 Looks like a real winner FRI to kick off a new golf season, sixteen of us have the first 4 tee times at Bensalem then its across the the street to the E-House for lots of college B-Ball & amber refreshment haven't picked-up a club since NOV so the initial holes will be even more adventurous than normal Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maximum lawman Posted March 15, 2011 Share Posted March 15, 2011 Stupid question. I reseeded and planted some trees last fall, a little too late for any growth. I can see some buds on the trees, so apparently I didn't kill them, but the lawn is just a muddy, grassless mess. Any idea when I'll know whether the re-seeding worked? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hazwoper Posted March 15, 2011 Share Posted March 15, 2011 Looks like a real winner FRI to kick off a new golf season, sixteen of us have the first 4 tee times at Bensalem then its across the the street to the E-House for lots of college B-Ball & amber refreshment haven't picked-up a club since NOV so the initial holes will be even more adventurous than normal E-House! Haven't been there in quite some time. Miss karaoke on Thursday nights. Too bad the Barn at Bensalem Country Club closed several years ago. The easiest place on earth to meet that special someone for just one night Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tombo82685 Posted March 15, 2011 Author Share Posted March 15, 2011 Stupid question. I reseeded and planted some trees last fall, a little too late for any growth. I can see some buds on the trees, so apparently I didn't kill them, but the lawn is just a muddy, grassless mess. Any idea when I'll know whether the re-seeding worked? well the grass wont start growing till april...is the seeded area under the tree or in another spot. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maximum lawman Posted March 15, 2011 Share Posted March 15, 2011 well the grass wont start growing till april...is the seeded area under the tree or in another spot. April, huh. The trees are in a mulched area, the lawn is all full sun - after a disastorous combination of mid-summer weed and feed combined with the hottest week of the summer there was nothing left, so I reseeded the whole thing. Thanks for your thoughts - I just recently moved to the burbs after a lifetime in the city and it's a steep learning curve, so I appreciate the thread! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tombo82685 Posted March 15, 2011 Author Share Posted March 15, 2011 April, huh. The trees are in a mulched area, the lawn is all full sun - after a disastorous combination of mid-summer weed and feed combined with the hottest week of the summer there was nothing left, so I reseeded the whole thing. Thanks for your thoughts - I just recently moved to the burbs after a lifetime in the city and it's a steep learning curve, so I appreciate the thread! yea you should never put that weed and feed stuff down in the heat. I wouldn't put a herbicide down on any temperature above 85 for a couple days. Do you know how much slow release was in your bag? Also, your going to run into an issue with your seeded area. Did any of the seeded grass germinate? or is it just seed still in the soil? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grothar Posted March 15, 2011 Share Posted March 15, 2011 April, huh. The trees are in a mulched area, the lawn is all full sun - after a disastorous combination of mid-summer weed and feed combined with the hottest week of the summer there was nothing left, so I reseeded the whole thing. Thanks for your thoughts - I just recently moved to the burbs after a lifetime in the city and it's a steep learning curve, so I appreciate the thread! The seed will come up when the soil temps get above 53-55 degrees. That could be as late as mid April. The seed that does eventually germinate depends on several factors such as how much seed did you spread, how much seed did the vermin and birds eat, was the seed freezer burned before the the snow cover and lastly- how acidic is the soil as a result of your over nitrification last summer. I would take a sample of the soil to your penn state extension office or someone who can test the soil and determine the ph. If the the ph is low- like i expect it would be -- throwing some lime on would help the soil and seed germination. This year I would not apply any more high nitrogen fertilizer bu apply a 10-10-10 fertilizer to stimulate root growth. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JamieOber Posted March 16, 2011 Share Posted March 16, 2011 This is from my favorite blog: http://www.gardenrant.com/my_weblog/2011/03/law-forbids-mowing.html I think that lawn laws are as silly as the belief that clover is bad to have in a lawn, but this one goes the opposite way. I think that people should be able to have whatever they might want in a yard they own (HOA's often seem to be run by mentally ill people who MUST. CON. TROL. YOU.). This is pretty outlandish. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maximum lawman Posted March 19, 2011 Share Posted March 19, 2011 yea you should never put that weed and feed stuff down in the heat. I wouldn't put a herbicide down on any temperature above 85 for a couple days. Do you know how much slow release was in your bag? Also, your going to run into an issue with your seeded area. Did any of the seeded grass germinate? or is it just seed still in the soil? Hey thanks for the reply - got caught up in work this week. No, the seed didn't germinate, it's just in the soil - do I need to put more down? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maximum lawman Posted March 19, 2011 Share Posted March 19, 2011 The seed will come up when the soil temps get above 53-55 degrees. That could be as late as mid April. The seed that does eventually germinate depends on several factors such as how much seed did you spread, how much seed did the vermin and birds eat, was the seed freezer burned before the the snow cover and lastly- how acidic is the soil as a result of your over nitrification last summer. I would take a sample of the soil to your penn state extension office or someone who can test the soil and determine the ph. If the the ph is low- like i expect it would be -- throwing some lime on would help the soil and seed germination. This year I would not apply any more high nitrogen fertilizer bu apply a 10-10-10 fertilizer to stimulate root growth. Great advice. I saw some discussion here about the PSU extension office and I will check it out. Sorry to ask another idiotic question, but what does 10-10-10 refer to? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grothar Posted March 19, 2011 Share Posted March 19, 2011 Great advice. I saw some discussion here about the PSU extension office and I will check it out. Sorry to ask another idiotic question, but what does 10-10-10 refer to? 10-10-10 is the type of fertilizer to apply. First 10 = nitrogen, second 10 = phosphorous and the third 10 = potassium. See the attached link. The lower the nitrogen, the better but this formula is usually the cheapest. Stay away from weed/feed fertilizer. http://www.ncagr.gov/cyber/kidswrld/plant/label.htm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tombo82685 Posted March 19, 2011 Author Share Posted March 19, 2011 Great advice. I saw some discussion here about the PSU extension office and I will check it out. Sorry to ask another idiotic question, but what does 10-10-10 refer to? also what he left out is you can't put down crabgrass control over those seeded areas. the 10-10-10 fertilizer you only uses in the beginning for root development for the turf. Once the grass reaches about and inch tall or so lose the phosphorus. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chrisNJ Posted March 27, 2011 Share Posted March 27, 2011 Tombo or the other experts, I have a few questions: (1) I had this estimated 10' by 10' area of lawn that developed numerous small mushrooms late last summer and fall. As of now, the area seems slightly depressed or discolored...or should I say, not as healthy as the surrounding grass/soil. There is a small tree that is slightly above the area but I am not sure if that has anything to do with it as the area still appears to get enough sunlight. Water does not pond here. My question is, what can be applied in the early spring or at other times to correct the issue? To me, it sounds like it could be a soil problem. (2) My next question is about overseeding. I dethatched and overseeded one half of my yard last fall and most of the areas sprouted and came in good before the winter. Is it ok to apply a standard early spring pre-emergent fertilizer to these areas? (3) My last question is about dethatching, aerating, and overseeding the other half of my lawn which has many weeds and thin spots. Is it really a waste of time to do this work before next fall? I'd like to try it in the Spring but from what some of you have said on here, that may be a waste of time. Thanks for your help and bring on the warmer weather! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tombo82685 Posted March 27, 2011 Author Share Posted March 27, 2011 Tombo or the other experts, I have a few questions: (1) I had this estimated 10' by 10' area of lawn that developed numerous small mushrooms late last summer and fall. As of now, the area seems slightly depressed or discolored...or should I say, not as healthy as the surrounding grass/soil. There is a small tree that is slightly above the area but I am not sure if that has anything to do with it as the area still appears to get enough sunlight. Water does not pond here. My question is, what can be applied in the early spring or at other times to correct the issue? To me, it sounds like it could be a soil problem. A soil test of the area might be the best thing, because you could be lacking some key nutrients which is hindering its development. (2) My next question is about overseeding. I dethatched and overseeded one half of my yard last fall and most of the areas sprouted and came in good before the winter. Is it ok to apply a standard early spring pre-emergent fertilizer to these areas? (3) My last question is about dethatching, aerating, and overseeding the other half of my lawn which has many weeds and thin spots. Is it really a waste of time to do this work before next fall? I'd like to try it in the Spring but from what some of you have said on here, that may be a waste of time. Thanks for your help and bring on the warmer weather! 1. chris, usually when you have mushrooms and what not its a soil related issue. Can, you take a picture of it for me? There could be several things going on there. It could be fairy ring, which sends off mushrooms. You could just be seeing a warm season grass spattered into the area. It could be a subrsurface drainage issue. Granted trees are not ideal for grass growing, but if your telling me it gets a good amount of sunlight ithat should be fine. 2. The premerge won't hurt the grass that has sprouted, it will just restirct new grass growth. I doubt you will get anymore seed germination if it didn't occur when you seeded last year. 3. It's not that its a waste of time, its just that your fighting intense weed pressure also and cooler soil temps, so the seed germination takes longer as opposed to fall. Grass and weeds germinate in the spring, where as in the fall, a few weeds may germinate, but grass is still. If you you start slice seeding and coring in an open area with no turf stand you're bringing new weeds to the surface. Honestly, it sounds like you want to do an aggressive core aeration and you want to do it in the spring. You can put down a pre emerge in learly to mid june to try and stop the weeds the grassy weeds that come up after this date; or just dedicate this season to fixing your lawn and getting it to the point where you want it. If the weeds bother you, bring someone in to treat the weeds Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chrisNJ Posted March 27, 2011 Share Posted March 27, 2011 Thanks for the response. Regarding the mushroom area, it is not visible now, only was visible in the fall. And after doing some research, it does look like it was a fairy ring patch because this link shows mushrooms which look very similar: http://www.mushroomexpert.com/marasmius_oreades.html Now just need to figure out how to correct that area. 1. chris, usually when you have mushrooms and what not its a soil related issue. Can, you take a picture of it for me? There could be several things going on there. It could be fairy ring, which sends off mushrooms. You could just be seeing a warm season grass spattered into the area. It could be a subrsurface drainage issue. Granted trees are not ideal for grass growing, but if your telling me it gets a good amount of sunlight ithat should be fine. 2. The premerge won't hurt the grass that has sprouted, it will just restirct new grass growth. I doubt you will get anymore seed germination if it didn't occur when you seeded last year. 3. It's not that its a waste of time, its just that your fighting intense weed pressure also and cooler soil temps, so the seed germination takes longer as opposed to fall. Grass and weeds germinate in the spring, where as in the fall, a few weeds may germinate, but grass is still. If you you start slice seeding and coring in an open area with no turf stand you're bringing new weeds to the surface. Honestly, it sounds like you want to do an aggressive core aeration and you want to do it in the spring. You can put down a pre emerge in learly to mid june to try and stop the weeds the grassy weeds that come up after this date; or just dedicate this season to fixing your lawn and getting it to the point where you want it. If the weeds bother you, bring someone in to treat the weeds Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tombo82685 Posted March 27, 2011 Author Share Posted March 27, 2011 Thanks for the response. Regarding the mushroom area, it is not visible now, only was visible in the fall. And after doing some research, it does look like it was a fairy ring patch because this link shows mushrooms which look very similar: http://www.mushroome...us_oreades.html Now just need to figure out how to correct that area. fairy ring is a soil born disease that occur when their is to much organic matter and lignon in the soil. Best way to fix it without using chemicals is an aggressive core aeration and replacing it with a soil that doesn't favor the disease. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grothar Posted March 28, 2011 Share Posted March 28, 2011 Tombo or the other experts, I have a few questions: (1) I had this estimated 10' by 10' area of lawn that developed numerous small mushrooms late last summer and fall. As of now, the area seems slightly depressed or discolored...or should I say, not as healthy as the surrounding grass/soil. There is a small tree that is slightly above the area but I am not sure if that has anything to do with it as the area still appears to get enough sunlight. Water does not pond here. My question is, what can be applied in the early spring or at other times to correct the issue? To me, it sounds like it could be a soil problem. (2) My next question is about overseeding. I dethatched and overseeded one half of my yard last fall and most of the areas sprouted and came in good before the winter. Is it ok to apply a standard early spring pre-emergent fertilizer to these areas? (3) My last question is about dethatching, aerating, and overseeding the other half of my lawn which has many weeds and thin spots. Is it really a waste of time to do this work before next fall? I'd like to try it in the Spring but from what some of you have said on here, that may be a waste of time. Thanks for your help and bring on the warmer weather! Sounds to me like an old tree removal area where the tree stump was left under ground to decay and is now settling. Usually this is where mushrooms are growing. While agree with Tombo on everything else, you must remove the decaying stump or mulch material and replace it with clean topsoil. The stump probably overlays a clay soil which does not help matters any by causing no water penetration throughout the soil profile. Great answers Tombo Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tombo82685 Posted March 28, 2011 Author Share Posted March 28, 2011 Sounds to me like an old tree removal area where the tree stump was left under ground to decay and is now settling. Usually this is where mushrooms are growing. While agree with Tombo on everything else, you must remove the decaying stump or mulch material and replace it with clean topsoil. The stump probably overlays a clay soil which does not help matters any by causing no water penetration throughout the soil profile. Great answers Tombo either that or they ground up the stump and just threw soil over top of the mulch chips Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NaoPos Posted March 29, 2011 Share Posted March 29, 2011 Cobbs ole course killed me today... So did the 20-30mph gusts. And my slice, and my atrocious chipping Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tombo82685 Posted March 29, 2011 Author Share Posted March 29, 2011 Cobbs ole course killed me today... So did the 20-30mph gusts. And my slice, and my atrocious chipping lol what did you shoot? I have only played there once. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NaoPos Posted March 29, 2011 Share Posted March 29, 2011 You don't wanna know... This is the start of my 2nd year golfing, so don't laugh... 47 on the front ( which was on pace for me to break 100) back 9, I ripped up my score card after the 13th... Haha. My goal is to break 100 by mid April, and get into the low 90's by seasons end.. Manageable for 2nd year player I think. I'm surprised you don't play there more often, considering proximity. Right now it's only $21 for 18 holes, so you can't beat that.( for us paying customers!) lol. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Parsley Posted March 29, 2011 Share Posted March 29, 2011 Scotts lawn service was going door to door today looking for sales. That's got to be a tough sell with the economy, the drought fresh in peoples mind from last summer which did alot of damage, along with a few other factors. Alot of elderly people in my neighborhood pay for service but don't even water their lawn during the heart of summer. The lawns burn away, as does their money. Its a shame really. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tombo82685 Posted March 29, 2011 Author Share Posted March 29, 2011 You don't wanna know... This is the start of my 2nd year golfing, so don't laugh... 47 on the front ( which was on pace for me to break 100) back 9, I ripped up my score card after the 13th... Haha. My goal is to break 100 by mid April, and get into the low 90's by seasons end.. Manageable for 2nd year player I think. I'm surprised you don't play there more often, considering proximity. Right now it's only $21 for 18 holes, so you can't beat that.( for us paying customers!) lol. im a 2nd yr golfer to. I have broken a 100 probably 5 or 6 times with my lowest being a a 94 or 95 at turtle creek. I played skippack last wekeend and shot a 105, which was alright for the 2nd time golfing this year. That isn;t bad at all, honestly. Might have to go there. Im sure it will bump up once into april, they are still in winter mode probably. If i don't do public course, i just play the course i work at for free Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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