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Lawn/Garden/Golf Thread


tombo82685

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Actually they have a granular form of primo as well as the liquid. But yea like you said the problem is going to be an even application with the slopes of the bunker faces. Even if it works a little bit it will help a lot in terms of freeing up some time to do other things.

never used or heard of granular primo. would seem labor intensive unless it had something else as a carrier to go with it to make it worthwhile to push the spreader around.

aside from the post/rope app I've always used primo in a tank mix, never by itself.

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never used granular primo

neither have we, so it will be interesting to see how it is. Im curious to see how long the residual will last. With a granular you would think maybe it would last longer than a liquid, since it would take water or microbe activity to break it down. While the liquid penetrates the cuticle and moves systemically throughout the plant, but every mowing reduces the residual of the product with blade removal.

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neither have we, so it will be interesting to see how it is. Im curious to see how long the residual will last. With a granular you would think maybe it would last longer than a liquid, since it would take water or microbe activity to break it down. While the liquid penetrates the cuticle and moves systemically throughout the plant, but every mowing reduces the residual of the product with blade removal.

how long for the granular to take effect? liquid is more or less instant

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You should be a fortune teller through your golf game. Your the new magic 8 ball...Hope eveything is going well with you

Here is a pic from the 15 tee looking NNE down the fairway

IMAG0084.jpg

Nice.

Well its also a built in excuse as to why my drive didn't go far.

Maybe the folks at Srixon and Bridgestone knew about the snowier winter since they brought back those yellow balls.

My next post is post 666. :devilsmiley:

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My 40 ft. blue spruce seems to have dropped more needles over the past few months (it was easy to see with the snowpack) than I ever noticed in the past 6 years living here. It has occured mainly in some inside branches on the lower levels of the tree. Anything to worry about? Most of the tree looks fine with new growth up top as usual. Is fertilizer a good idea for the tree in the spring. The thing is big and established, atleast 15-20 years old I'd bet.

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My 40 ft. blue spruce seems to have dropped more needles over the past few months (it was easy to see with the snowpack) than I ever noticed in the past 6 years living here. It has occured mainly in some inside branches on the lower levels of the tree. Anything to worry about? Most of the tree looks fine with new growth up top as usual. Is fertilizer a good idea for the tree in the spring. The thing is big and established, atleast 15-20 years old I'd bet.

I wouldn't be to worried, it could be a response to maybe winter dessication or response to the colder/snow weather. Its always good to fertilize trees esp the ones you really care about.

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Heres a good view of our 17th green, 70/30 bent/poa... gray snow mold again

DSCF0919.jpg

I'm gonna go with this is bad news bears...

I've never played a lick of golf in my life or watched it. The closes thing is mini golf or the gym class I had last year in hs where we randomly swung at those little plastic wiffle balls with the wholes on them, and no matter how hard you hit it the wind would send it back to the same spot......never will play it again....:gun_bandana:

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I'm gonna go with this is bad news bears...

I've never played a lick of golf in my life or watched it. The closes thing is mini golf or the gym class I had last year in hs where we randomly swung at those little plastic wiffle balls with the wholes on them, and no matter how hard you hit it the wind would send it back to the same spot......never will play it again....:gun_bandana:

It looks bad, but it will grow out of it. Winter diseases aren't nearly as bad as summer diseases in terms of damage. Aesthetically wise its very unpleasing.

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What is the best time to spring fertilize? Obviously, when the snow threats are gone, but I assume the 1st week of April at the earliest?

Once the grass starts growing, after the first mowing. When fertilizing don't put more than a half pound of nitrogen down, try to keep it under that. Alot of people make the mistake of pounding the lawn in the spring with high amounts of fertilizer. All this does is causes double the amount of top growth than normally what it would be. It also rids the grass of valuable carbohydrates and missed out root growth. A lawn that is fed with to much nitrogen in the spring with a depleted root zone and energy supply, will go dormant a lot faster. You will also be mowing like every other day if you fertilize to much...i could go on and on with why you shouldn't but there is no need to bore people.

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What is the best time to spring fertilize? Obviously, when the snow threats are gone, but I assume the 1st week of April at the earliest?

For the average home owner, I would tie the spring fert app with a crabgrass pre-emergent sometime around the beginning of forsythia bloom.

Funny I just put out my "winter" dormant feed on my lawn (earthworks 5-4-5) last week as it was the first time I could see the grass without snow cover. Normally I apply it in late December but this year was a bit tricky with the weather.

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Tom

is Scotts Turf Builder With Halts Crabgrass Preventer 30-0-4 a terrible choice?

if so whats a good replacement?

thanks.

Whats the price of the fertilizer? I don't like the high analysis of nitrogen in it, tells me there is a lot of quick release fertilizer in there. Is there one that has a lower analysis?

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Whats the price of the fertilizer? I don't like the high analysis of nitrogen in it, tells me there is a lot of quick release fertilizer in there. Is there one that has a lower analysis?

costco: 48.99 for 32 lbs

lowes: (only looked at online price) 53.94 for 42.5lbs

depot: same as lowes but web site has it as 40lbs.

i pulled analysis from scotts website not the bag in store but i'm guessing it would be the same?

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costco: 48.99 for 32 lbs

lowes: (only looked at online price) 53.94 for 42.5lbs

depot: same as lowes but web site has it as 40lbs.

i pulled analysis from scotts website not the bag in store but i'm guessing it would be the same?

yea i would assume it is if home depot sells that bag in there stores. Here is a company thats very well known, they have a store in norristown. Decent drive from you, but this is what you want. If you put down a winterizer fertilizer i would go with something like this

0-0-7 or 0-0-10, you would have to go to the store to find this or search there home page.

If you didnt put down a winterizer then go with this

5-5-25 its a 50lb bag. I saw it on there website for as low as 40 dollars.

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yea i would assume it is if home depot sells that bag in there stores. Here is a company thats very well known, they have a store in norristown. Decent drive from you, but this is what you want. If you put down a winterizer fertilizer i would go with something like this

0-0-7 or 0-0-10, you would have to go to the store to find this or search there home page.

If you didnt put down a winterizer then go with this

5-5-25 its a 50lb bag. I saw it on there website for as low as 40 dollars.

what store?

i did put down winterizer

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what store?

i did put down winterizer

http://www.lesco.com/

You can either visit the store or sign up and see the prices of the products. If you can find a scotts product that has a low nitrogen analysis with the pre emerge then go with that. The prices here seem cheaper than scotts so thats why im mentioning it and also they have more of a selection.

The reason why i wouldn't recommend that scotts product is because you put down a winter fertilizer. Winter fertilizer help with early spring green up. Throw on top of that grasses usually grow nuts in the spring because they produce seed. Now additionally your going to throw all that nitrogen on there in that bag which is just going to make the grass grow crazy instead of storing energy for the summer.

Ideally i would get something that has no nitrogen in it, a 0-0-7 or 0-0-10. Late april put down a shot of nitrogen at .5lbs/1000 or less, then come back in late may and put down another shot of fertilizer, but make sure this fertilizer has more slow release in it so it can feed the lawn slowly for the summer. Unless you are going to spoon feed i would do the slow release way.

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Any idea's to help me out on suggestions for my back yard which often becomes murky or muddy like a swamp, you walk back in the yard and its like a wet sponge and you can hear it under you when you walk on it. There is a slight slope to the yard from the north to the south.

sounds like a french drain system needed. perforated pipe 4 inch wide (1/2 inch holes) wrapped in a filter fabric, thrown in a trench 2-3 feet down( the deeper the better ) beckfilled with 2b modified stone should do the trick. The soils are spongy because you are on clay and the ground is is becoming unfrozen ( Like an ice cream bar melting) see the attached links

http://www.askthebuilder.com/B70_French_Drain_Design.shtml

http://www.helphive.com/advice-center/2009/05/explaining-french-drains/

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sounds like a french drain system needed. perforated pipe 4 inch wide (1/2 inch holes) wrapped in a filter fabric, thrown in a trench 2-3 feet down( the deeper the better ) beckfilled with 2b modified stone should do the trick. The soils are spongy because you are on clay and the ground is is becoming unfrozen ( Like an ice cream bar melting) see the attached links

http://www.askthebui...in_Design.shtml

http://www.helphive....-french-drains/

yup that drain is the best.

Lee i would pick the area where its the wettest and stick the drain...dig down like a foot, stick the pipe in, fill it with pea gravel till its about 3-4 inches from the top then regular soil, then seed it.

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yup that drain is the best.

Lee i would pick the area where its the wettest and stick the drain...dig down like a foot, stick the pipe in, fill it with pea gravel till its about 3-4 inches from the top then regular soil, then seed it.

Yeah this will turn into one hell of a project in the long run, as i will be also cementing the perimeter of the back yard due to our dogs and preventing them on escaping when we leave them have free run of the whole back yard.

What size pipe should i use?

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