tombo82685 Posted February 15, 2011 Author Share Posted February 15, 2011 Tom, How about the pre emergent followed up with rye grass to fill the holes left from prior year's crabgrass? Is it true rye is aggressive and a general quick cover so then I can seed heavy in the fall? What are these soil tests kits found? Thanks. What type of pre emerge control are you looking for crabgrass control or broadleaf? Ryegrass has a very quick germination rate. It takes a week or less for the seed to grow while the other seeds take 1.5 to 2.5 weeks to grow. It all is determined by soil temperature. The cooler the soil temperature the slower the germination is going to be. Thats why they say fall is a better time to seed because your starting off with a higher soil temperature and you will have less competition with weeds. There is also something else you can do to speed up the germination of seed. Its called pregermination, its a process where you soak the seed in water for a couple of days to the point where the seed is beginning or about to germinate. Then you just apply it to the lawn and it grows immediately instead of sitting on the ground for a while. Ryegrass isn't aggressive in terms of spreading though. Its a bunch type grass meaning it has no stolons or rhizomes, or means of moving throughout the yard. Ryegrass forms in clumps by tillering. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tombo82685 Posted February 15, 2011 Author Share Posted February 15, 2011 Use Sustain, its an organic fertilizer, cut your grass at 3" and water during the summer (as needed) only twice a week, and go deep, half inch of water at least. If you water everyday, the roots wills stay near the surface, they dont have to go down to get the water they need. By cutting at 3" you will crowd out the weeds, and if you clover leave it, its a fantastic source and regulator of nitrogen. Water seldom but DEEP to promote a thick rich lawn that is tougher against drought and weeds. I agree with the organic fertilizers, for summer use. Do you put sustain down all year or just during the summer? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tombo82685 Posted February 15, 2011 Author Share Posted February 15, 2011 Penn State Extension office in the past they did that. Nowadays you just print off the sheets from the website and use a ziplock bag from home. Steve here is the link to the sol test sheet. All you do is fill out that sheet and take plugs of soil from you yard no more than 3inches into thr ground. Fill the ziplock bag about half way, then send it to the psu ag lab address on the sheet. http://www.aasl.psu.edu/Turf/Turf%20HG%20Front_Back%20for%20Web.pdf Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr Torchey Posted February 15, 2011 Share Posted February 15, 2011 I agree with the organic fertilizers, for summer use. Do you put sustain down all year or just during the summer? april and september. Its funny to watch people put down the scotts thick and often, it greens up then just craps out, the grass used so much energy to promote the boost of growth. Plus your lawn is essentially dead, its synthetic, great test: grab a shovel come may dig a hole, earthworms great, no earthworms get off the synthetic crap. A spring and fall organic fertilization is plenty, mix in the correct watering techiniques and cut the lawn at the correct height and everything should be fine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JTA66 Posted February 15, 2011 Share Posted February 15, 2011 Use Sustain, its an organic fertilizer, cut your grass at 3" and water during the summer (as needed) only twice a week, and go deep, half inch of water at least. If you water everyday, the roots wills stay near the surface, they dont have to go down to get the water they need. By cutting at 3" you will crowd out the weeds, and if you clover leave it, its a fantastic source and regulator of nitrogen. Water seldom but DEEP to promote a thick rich lawn that is tougher against drought and weeds. Great! Thanks for the info. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tombo82685 Posted February 15, 2011 Author Share Posted February 15, 2011 april and september. Its funny to watch people put down the scotts thick and often, it greens up then just craps out, the grass used so much energy to promote the boost of growth. Plus your lawn is essentially dead, its synthetic, great test: grab a shovel come may dig a hole, earthworms great, no earthworms get off the synthetic crap. A spring and fall organic fertilization is plenty, mix in the correct watering techiniques and cut the lawn at the correct height and everything should be fine. Just because its synthetic doesn't mean its crap. If you apply the product correectly, it works the same as any other fertilizer. The reason why it burned out and went to crap is because they over did it on the nitrogen. During the spring you should not be pounding the lawns with nitrogen like most lawn companies do. light application of fertilizer is perfect. In the fall time is when you hit the lawn good. To much fertilizer in the spring causes to much top growth and not enought carb production for energy and root production needed for summer survival. If you use a synthetic fert in the spring under .5lbs /1000 your fine. You just have to be careful on how much is applied do to the higher burn potential, but it is a quick release fert. that will give a faster turf response than slow releases. The reason i asked about the organic fertilization is because im not sure what the soil temperature runs in april for your location but around here i imagine its around the upper 40s to low 50s. The reason i state this is because most organic fertilizers are temperature induced. Meaning they need a higher soil temperature to activate the chemical breakdown or higher temp to increase microbe activity which enhances breakdown of the material. Soil temperature of 50 degrees or less will have virtually no response from an organic fertilizer do to the reasons stated above. Thats why i always go with the organics from june to august, higher soil temperature. The higher soil temperature the quicker the release of nitrogen. They have low burn potential. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NaoPos Posted February 15, 2011 Share Posted February 15, 2011 Anyone know if any driving ranges will be open soon? I'm dying here!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dankil13 Posted February 15, 2011 Share Posted February 15, 2011 Anyone know if any driving ranges will be open soon? I'm dying here!!! Most of the courses in SJ and Delaware are snow free and open for play. I assume SEPA courses should be opening this weekend if the temps verify. The Golf Assoc of Phila has a winter directory on their website showing course statuses (including rates) for our area - www.gapgolf.org. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MGorse Posted February 15, 2011 Share Posted February 15, 2011 i would fertilize them in the spring decently to help them "try" to recover if you don;t already do so. Would you recommend any particular fertilizer for them? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tombo82685 Posted February 15, 2011 Author Share Posted February 15, 2011 Would you recommend any particular fertilizer for them? i would go with something like a 18-0-6 or 12-0-4 kind of analysis on the brand you go with. I would probably go with a slow release fertilizer. In terms of brand, it really doesn;t matter. Fertilizer is fertilizer there are no bad fertilizers. Organic fertilizer is very good to but will probably cost you more. Just follow the label on how much to apply. In my honest opinion liquid fertilizer is the best, if you aren't able to do this then go granular. For the liquid feritilizer its best for it to be soil injected but obviously we don't have that kind of equipment to do so. What you could do is make channels in the soil and pour the fertilizer into it so it doesn't run off but is forced to percolate down through the soil profile. I would fertilize it in the spring time then come back in the fall and hit it again. When fertilizing, fertilize from the drip line to like 6 inches before you reach the trunk. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MGorse Posted February 15, 2011 Share Posted February 15, 2011 i would go with something like a 18-0-6 or 12-0-4 kind of analysis on the brand you go with. I would probably go with a slow release fertilizer. In terms of brand, it really doesn;t matter. Fertilizer is fertilizer there are no bad fertilizers. Organic fertilizer is very good to but will probably cost you more. Just follow the label on how much to apply. In my honest opinion liquid fertilizer is the best, if you aren't able to do this then go granular. For the liquid feritilizer its best for it to be soil injected but obviously we don't have that kind of equipment to do so. What you could do is make channels in the soil and pour the fertilizer into it so it doesn't run off but is forced to percolate down through the soil profile. I would fertilize it in the spring time then come back in the fall and hit it again. When fertilizing, fertilize from the drip line to like 6 inches before you reach the trunk. Thanks for the info. Much appreciated! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tombo82685 Posted February 15, 2011 Author Share Posted February 15, 2011 Thanks for the info. Much appreciated! No problem, let me know how it works for you. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Parsley Posted February 16, 2011 Share Posted February 16, 2011 Just spent a little time outside, while 90% of the yard is still snow covered (about 3") I did see a few hyacinth bulbs starting to poke out of the mulch on the south side of my house. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LMolineuxLM1 Posted February 17, 2011 Share Posted February 17, 2011 Just spent a little time outside, while 90% of the yard is still snow covered (about 3") I did see a few hyacinth bulbs starting to poke out of the mulch on the south side of my house. I have seen some trees budding up already which is nice to see. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tombo82685 Posted February 18, 2011 Author Share Posted February 18, 2011 You guys are going to start to notice the big time as the snow melts off your yards. This gray snow mold, pretty rare for this region, more common in the poconos. You need extensive time of snowcover to get this. This is off our hole number 1 mens tee Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tombo82685 Posted February 18, 2011 Author Share Posted February 18, 2011 heres what it looks like on your yard. It will alos have like a white cotton candy mycellium on it. Gray snow mold also has sclerotia on the blades but its hard to see sclerotia, its the orangish red bubbles Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FUCK JOE BIDEN Posted February 18, 2011 Share Posted February 18, 2011 nice writeup most home lawns (and golf courses) will grow out of it once the grass becomes actively growing. Only one of the courses I worked at did we spray G,T and F preventative before the first snow, all other courses I worked at we only took care of greens and tees. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tombo82685 Posted February 18, 2011 Author Share Posted February 18, 2011 nice writeup most home lawns (and golf courses) will grow out of it once the grass becomes actively growing. Only one of the courses I worked at did we spray G,T and F preventative before the first snow, all other courses I worked at we only took care of greens and tees. We usually spray the tees and greens, but never got around to it with all the renovations being done on the course. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tombo82685 Posted February 19, 2011 Author Share Posted February 19, 2011 Heres a good view of our 17th green, 70/30 bent/poa... gray snow mold again Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FUCK JOE BIDEN Posted February 19, 2011 Share Posted February 19, 2011 Heres a good view of our 17th green, 70/30 bent/poa... gray snow mold again To the average golfer that would look disastrous, hopefully it is mostly visual and we get an early spring to help you grow out of it. Kinda reminds me of a course I worked at where we didn't time our 1st embark application perfectly. We actually got a letter from a golfer complaining that fescue was not a proper grass to be used on golf greens Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tombo82685 Posted February 19, 2011 Author Share Posted February 19, 2011 To the average golfer that would look disastrous, hopefully it is mostly visual and we get an early spring to help you grow out of it. Kinda reminds me of a course I worked at where we didn't time our 1st embark application perfectly. We actually got a letter from a golfer complaining that fescue was not a proper grass to be used on golf greens what do you use embark for seedhead supression or growth regulator? We use primo for growth regulator proxy for the poa seedhaed suppression. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FUCK JOE BIDEN Posted February 19, 2011 Share Posted February 19, 2011 what do you use embark for seedhead supression or growth regulator? We use primo for growth regulator proxy for the poa seedhaed suppression. I don't know what I was thinking. Embark for seedhead suppression in the fairways, proxy/primo for the greens. I worked at so many courses we did things different at each of them. I've tried primo as high as 1.5oz/1000 for growth control along our post and ropes. I think it saved quite a bit of labor. I've been tempted to try a higher rate on my own yard to limit mowing! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tombo82685 Posted February 19, 2011 Author Share Posted February 19, 2011 I don't know what I was thinking. Embark for seedhead suppression in the fairways, proxy/primo for the greens. I worked at so many courses we did things different at each of them. I've tried primo as high as 1.5oz/1000 for growth control along our post and ropes. I think it saved quite a bit of labor. I've been tempted to try a higher rate on my own yard to limit mowing! lol holy poop, did you get get any phytotoxicity? Did it hurt the poa? We go 4-5 oz per acre lol Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FUCK JOE BIDEN Posted February 20, 2011 Share Posted February 20, 2011 lol holy poop, did you get get any phytotoxicity? Did it hurt the poa? We go 4-5 oz per acre lol keep in mind this was along our cartpaths where we have post and ropes for traffic control. No discoloration that stood out compared to the untreated area next to it. It cut our trimming back to once every 4-6 weeks, since I could just drive the cartpaths with 1 boom on and hit the areas it took about 2 hours of my time, compared to a crew of at least 2 or 3 taking about 2 days to do the trimming every 10 days. I started at the labeled rate for roughs and scaled it up .25oz at a time. Never went any higher than that although the turf seemed able tolerate more. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tombo82685 Posted February 20, 2011 Author Share Posted February 20, 2011 keep in mind this was along our cartpaths where we have post and ropes for traffic control. No discoloration that stood out compared to the untreated area next to it. It cut our trimming back to once every 4-6 weeks, since I could just drive the cartpaths with 1 boom on and hit the areas it took about 2 hours of my time, compared to a crew of at least 2 or 3 taking about 2 days to do the trimming every 10 days. I started at the labeled rate for roughs and scaled it up .25oz at a time. Never went any higher than that although the turf seemed able tolerate more. makes sense with the higher turf, more root mass to be able to handle it. We are going to try putting primo on our bunker faces this year to limit the amount of mowing done on them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RowanBrandon Posted February 20, 2011 Share Posted February 20, 2011 Played a round yesterday. Not much fun though with those winds. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Parsley Posted February 20, 2011 Share Posted February 20, 2011 I just raked up 2 garbage cans full of oaks leaves (thanks neighbors!). Also finally got all the Christmas decorations down. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FUCK JOE BIDEN Posted February 20, 2011 Share Posted February 20, 2011 makes sense with the higher turf, more root mass to be able to handle it. We are going to try putting primo on our bunker faces this year to limit the amount of mowing done on them. I think the labeled rate is .75/1000 for residential turf (2"?) Obviously you can get away with a bit more, I would start at .75 and go from there (which is what I did) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FUCK JOE BIDEN Posted February 20, 2011 Share Posted February 20, 2011 makes sense with the higher turf, more root mass to be able to handle it. We are going to try putting primo on our bunker faces this year to limit the amount of mowing done on them. I think the labeled rate is .75oz/1000sqft for residential turf (2"?) Obviously you can get away with a bit more, I would start at .75 and go from there (which is what I did) The problem you're going to have is even application. Can you hang a boom over the bunker face or are you doing it with a hand sprayer? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tombo82685 Posted February 20, 2011 Author Share Posted February 20, 2011 I think the labeled rate is .75oz/1000sqft for residential turf (2"?) Obviously you can get away with a bit more, I would start at .75 and go from there (which is what I did) The problem you're going to have is even application. Can you hang a boom over the bunker face or are you doing it with a hand sprayer? Actually they have a granular form of primo as well as the liquid. But yea like you said the problem is going to be an even application with the slopes of the bunker faces. Even if it works a little bit it will help a lot in terms of freeing up some time to do other things. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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