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Lawn/Garden/Golf Thread


tombo82685

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Interesting, we have been doing it this whole time and we have been fine. It shouldn't hurt the grass at all just the nutsedge. Did you ffollow the labeled rate make sure you dont apply it to heavy, just one swipe with the sprayer is fine.

I'm thinking I may have went to heavy where I had large clumps of that nut.

Learned my lesson.

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Anyone seeing any Japanese Beatles this summer?

I haven't so I was wondering if my milky spore is still working. A couple years ago we had plenty of those pain in the a$$ pests.

i h ave seen a couple here and there. they love linden trees and the oines on the course are doing fine. i have seen june beetles and chafers tho.

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  • 2 weeks later...

A couple places on my lawn are in full sun and they are browned out and dormant. Will that grass come back this fall?

could be browned out because of lack of water. In which case as soon as the temperature cools and you get water it will come back. It also could be a disease that killed the grass. In which case you may have to seed it.

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There are 2 large oaks, and also it gets some shade from my house. Maybe a metal rake would work?

well yea that get rid of it, but it will just come right back. What you could do, in the fall start converting that area over to fine fescue which tolerates shaded areas. That may alleviate the moss issue.

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I've got a couple acres of yardage, but the problem is that the majority of the "lawn" is made up of several varieties of weeds/ground cover and not grass. I'm not a huge fan of the onion grass in late summer/early autumn or in early spring (vomit-inducing odor in the garage after mowing). The clover is nice to walk through until you get stung by bees on your foot. Some of the other weeds have just a plain nasty texture.

I've done some research into what it would take to coax it back to a majority of grasses (core aeration & dethatching). While I could see doing both of these once without much $ or time, I am wondering if our sub-forum experts could chime in on the relative probabilities of success. Is this something that will take several years and repeat treatments? If it's going to cost me >$500/year for several years, I could probably get used to the current state.

Thanks in advance folks.

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I've got a couple acres of yardage, but the problem is that the majority of the "lawn" is made up of several varieties of weeds/ground cover and not grass. I'm not a huge fan of the onion grass in late summer/early autumn or in early spring (vomit-inducing odor in the garage after mowing). The clover is nice to walk through until you get stung by bees on your foot. Some of the other weeds have just a plain nasty texture.

I've done some research into what it would take to coax it back to a majority of grasses (core aeration & dethatching). While I could see doing both of these once without much $ or time, I am wondering if our sub-forum experts could chime in on the relative probabilities of success. Is this something that will take several years and repeat treatments? If it's going to cost me >$500/year for several years, I could probably get used to the current state.

Thanks in advance folks.

What you could do is just spray a selective herbicide that will kill the broadleaf weeds. The onion grass will be tough, thats a real bugger. Once those weeds are knocked out go to your original plan core aerate and seed.

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What you could do is just spray a selective herbicide that will kill the broadleaf weeds. The onion grass will be tough, thats a real bugger. Once those weeds are knocked out go to your original plan core aerate and seed.

Thanks Tombo.

Is it okay to mow over freshly seeded areas (I have a heavy zero-turn mower). If not, do you have typical advice for allowing the seedlings to thrive while avoiding a warning notice from the homeowner's association for overly long grass?

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Thanks Tombo.

Is it okay to mow over freshly seeded areas (I have a heavy zero-turn mower). If not, do you have typical advice for allowing the seedlings to thrive while avoiding a warning notice from the homeowner's association for overly long grass?

i would just mow it, but be careful when you turn that could pull the seedlings out. You could also just mow the high areas, or weed wack them down if they are few and far between.

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  • 3 weeks later...

tom, is this a good time to schedule a core aeration? I finally got a soil test kit that I am going to use tomorrow, so we'll see about specific next steps, but I haven't done any aeration or dethatching over the last four seasons that we've lived here. Based upon the way the weeds have taken over this year, I think it could use it. I was thinking that it might be better to wait until later in the month, so I wanted to check with you...

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tom, is this a good time to schedule a core aeration? I finally got a soil test kit that I am going to use tomorrow, so we'll see about specific next steps, but I haven't done any aeration or dethatching over the last four seasons that we've lived here. Based upon the way the weeds have taken over this year, I think it could use it. I was thinking that it might be better to wait until later in the month, so I wanted to check with you...

Yea once into september you are good for aeration. We are suppose to aerate our greens on tuesday but that doesnt look like it will happen with the rain. The coring won't get rid of your weeds, they will be back next year. You will have to treat them. After your core aerate seed it then starter fertilizer it. Also, if you do a pH test and you need lime put the lime down also.

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There is a tough crowd in Jersey. Someone dumped herbicide(?) on the greens of 1,2, 4 & 15 at Indian Spring, killed the grass. Whoever did it also hit two private clubs in the area. Last year someone set a "Mr. Bob" on fire at Ramblewood, I'm still confused as to why.

could be gasoline...that will kill a green just as easily.

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Now that I am "mostly" moved in to my new home, I have a gardening question. I have a hydrangea that is currently in a large pot that I would like to plant in our yard. It really struggled through the heat and I thought it had become dormant. However, I now have new growth around the base of the plant. Should I wait until this new growth also goes dormant before planting it? Any tips are appreciated as I've always had to keep my plants in pots due to living in an apartment.

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Now that I am "mostly" moved in to my new home, I have a gardening question. I have a hydrangea that is currently in a large pot that I would like to plant in our yard. It really struggled through the heat and I thought it had become dormant. However, I now have new growth around the base of the plant. Should I wait until this new growth also goes dormant before planting it? Any tips are appreciated as I've always had to keep my plants in pots due to living in an apartment.

Is the rest of the plant dead besides the new shoots? This is a perfect time to plant plants.

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Now that I am "mostly" moved in to my new home, I have a gardening question. I have a hydrangea that is currently in a large pot that I would like to plant in our yard. It really struggled through the heat and I thought it had become dormant. However, I now have new growth around the base of the plant. Should I wait until this new growth also goes dormant before planting it? Any tips are appreciated as I've always had to keep my plants in pots due to living in an apartment.

I've noticed that about our hydrangeas too. Saw some beautiful ones in Cape May and planted some around our house, they really suffered the past three summers.

I don't see a problem transplanting it now either, as long as its kept watered.

Your avatar has to be among one of the best avatars on the board.

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