phlwx Posted February 8, 2011 Share Posted February 8, 2011 Thanks. It grows like a beast, so I try to keep it in check every autumn. Its amazing how much I (as well as many of us here) love snow and winter, but at the same time love warmth and the outdoors. I guess its all about a balance of the two. 3 more weeks for me and I'm done with this winter. Yesterday (hitting 48) was my check out date for winter as I officially got Spring Fever...last winter was epic...it was such a crazy 180 from the icebox and epic snow (and rain in March) to torch city in April-October. Aces and catchers report in five days! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Parsley Posted February 9, 2011 Share Posted February 9, 2011 Yesterday (hitting 48) was my check out date for winter as I officially got Spring Fever...last winter was epic...it was such a crazy 180 from the icebox and epic snow (and rain in March) to torch city in April-October. Aces and catchers report in five days! With the no-snows this week, and temperatures 50-60 next week, I'm throwing in the towel on winter as well. Sure, if it wants to snow a foot later in the month, that's fine...I'm just not going to be cheering for it to happen at this point. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FUCK JOE BIDEN Posted February 13, 2011 Share Posted February 13, 2011 trying to open by friday. calling for 57F. don't know if the 4" of compacted snow can melt in time. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tombo82685 Posted February 13, 2011 Author Share Posted February 13, 2011 trying to open by friday. calling for 57F. don't know if the 4" of compacted snow can melt in time. we are open all year round for golfers to play. If the snow is gone by friday we will probably have a lot of golfers out walking since everything is closed clubhouse, cart barn areas etc.... Its going to be a disaster once this snow melts, we have a restoration going on with expanding greens levelling tees and creating more bunkers.... Traffic plus soggy ground = not good. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FUCK JOE BIDEN Posted February 13, 2011 Share Posted February 13, 2011 we are open all year round for golfers to play. If the snow is gone by friday we will probably have a lot of golfers out walking since everything is closed clubhouse, cart barn areas etc.... Its going to be a disaster once this snow melts, we have a restoration going on with expanding greens levelling tees and creating more bunkers.... Traffic plus soggy ground = not good. we are open "year round" as well. Not possible with all this snow. We were getting calls on Friday for this weekend if we were open. I wonder where those golfers are calling from? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RowanBrandon Posted February 14, 2011 Share Posted February 14, 2011 I'm looking to get a round in this Saturday for the first time in a while. Hopefully it's at least in the 50's. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tombo82685 Posted February 14, 2011 Author Share Posted February 14, 2011 we are open "year round" as well. Not possible with all this snow. We were getting calls on Friday for this weekend if we were open. I wonder where those golfers are calling from? dc area lol Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Parsley Posted February 14, 2011 Share Posted February 14, 2011 Pruning back rose bushes in the upcoming months. Two are 1 yr. old knockout rose bushes, 2 others are established normal rose bushes (likely 10+ years old) that are extremely top heavy in the spring. I really want to prune the two older bushes all the way to the ground. Advice on when and how to do the pruning is appreciated. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ralph Wiggum Posted February 14, 2011 Share Posted February 14, 2011 What brand of pre-emergent do you guys like? Is there a certain blend I should get or anything I should look for? Also, what brand of grass seed do you prefer? I'm tired of Scott's and some of the other mainstream brands....get too many weeds and dud seeds out of the bag. I tried Pennington before and it was 'ok'. Any I should keep my eyes open for? Thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tombo82685 Posted February 14, 2011 Author Share Posted February 14, 2011 What brand of pre-emergent do you guys like? Is there a certain blend I should get or anything I should look for? Also, what brand of grass seed do you prefer? I'm tired of Scott's and some of the other mainstream brands....get too many weeds and dud seeds out of the bag. I tried Pennington before and it was 'ok'. Any I should keep my eyes open for? Thanks. Steve its pretty easy to find a good seed. There is a calculation you do to figure the pure live seed of a bag, basically the seed thats going to grow/germinate as opposed to the dead seed. You take the purity of the seed x the germination percent divided by 100. All seed bags have a label on it to show these figures. The higher the pure live seed the better. Here is a link that describes it and gets into more detail http://www.homerunhe...forum/index.php In terms of pre emerge.. Most of your pre emerge is either dimension (dithiopyr) or barricade (prodiamine). At the golf course we usually get like .125% prodiamine mixed with potassium as a filler. A regular scotts crabgrass controller or whatever its called does the trick. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dankil13 Posted February 14, 2011 Share Posted February 14, 2011 I played Atlantic City CC yesterday. Even though the temps were in the mid 40's, it felt much, much colder with the howling wind off the bay (easily a 4 club wind). The price was right ($45 walk or ride), the course was in decent shape, and the layout is great but I think I'd wait until it warms up a bit before heading there again (especially with the wind). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tombo82685 Posted February 14, 2011 Author Share Posted February 14, 2011 Pruning back rose bushes in the upcoming months. Two are 1 yr. old knockout rose bushes, 2 others are established normal rose bushes (likely 10+ years old) that are extremely top heavy in the spring. I really want to prune the two older bushes all the way to the ground. Advice on when and how to do the pruning is appreciated. Prunning at the rate you are doing is good from fall to spring... In terms of pruning, you want to cut the plant back no more then 1/4 inch above the node of the plant. A node is a meristamatice region on a plant where cell division occurs and forms new growth. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JTA66 Posted February 14, 2011 Share Posted February 14, 2011 Steve its pretty easy to find a good seed. There is a calculation you do to figure the pure live seed of a bag, basically the seed thats going to grow/germinate as opposed to the dead seed. You take the purity of the seed x the germination percent divided by 100. All seed bags have a label on it to show these figures. The higher the pure live seed the better. Here is a link that describes it and gets into more detail http://www.homerunhe...forum/index.php In terms of pre emerge.. Most of your pre emerge is either dimension (dithiopyr) or barricade (prodiamine). At the golf course we usually get like .125% prodiamine mixed with potassium as a filler. A regular scotts crabgrass controller or whatever its called does the trick. Tom, Putting down crabgrass control would prevent any grass seed I put down from germinating, correct? That's always the dilemma I have in the Spring; plant new seed or prevent crabgrass later in the season. Any suggestions? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tombo82685 Posted February 14, 2011 Author Share Posted February 14, 2011 Tom, Putting down crabgrass control would prevent any grass seed I put down from germinating, correct? That's always the dilemma I have in the Spring; plant new seed or prevent crabgrass later in the season. Any suggestions? Yea, if you put down crabgrass stuff it will prevent the seed from germinating. Scotts though does have a product that allows you to have crabgrass control and still grow seed in it. It has sidouron in it which blocks the crabgrass and allows the seed to come up. This product is more expensive.Are you trying to touch up some areas or just do a whole lawn over-seeding? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tombo82685 Posted February 14, 2011 Author Share Posted February 14, 2011 ALso, once the snow has melted and the ground thaws a little, this is a great time to do soil tests for your yard to get the nutrient/lime requirements for the season. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JTA66 Posted February 14, 2011 Share Posted February 14, 2011 Yea, if you put down crabgrass stuff it will prevent the seed from germinating. Scotts though does have a product that allows you to have crabgrass control and still grow seed in it. It has sidouron in it which blocks the crabgrass and allows the seed to come up. This product is more expensive.Are you trying to touch up some areas or just do a whole lawn over-seeding? Thanks. I'm not sure what my plan is just yet ... still waiting for the snow to melt to get a good look at the lawn. It was in bad shape after last year's hot/dry summer, so I'm probably looking at over seeding. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tombo82685 Posted February 14, 2011 Author Share Posted February 14, 2011 Thanks. I'm not sure what my plan is just yet ... still waiting for the snow to melt to get a good look at the lawn. It was in bad shape after last year's hot/dry summer, so I'm probably looking at over seeding. Yea you can try the porduct i mentioned that scotts carries. Other then that i would wait till fall. Thats truly the best time. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MGorse Posted February 15, 2011 Share Posted February 15, 2011 Well, I noticed after a closer inspection during the weekend that a few of my arborvitae's snapped a few limbs (bent over a fence) with one even split near the ground. I had tied several of them up after last winter which helped but none of them snapped or split until this lovely winter. I wonder if I will be able to save the one that split. May have to axe that one. What a mess this winter has been on these shrubs especially, although it was probably last winter and this winter combined. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tombo82685 Posted February 15, 2011 Author Share Posted February 15, 2011 Well, I noticed after a closer inspection during the weekend that a few of my arborvitae's snapped a few limbs (bent over a fence) with one even split near the ground. I had tied several of them up after last winter which helped but none of them snapped or split until this lovely winter. I wonder if I will be able to save the one that split. May have to axe that one. What a mess this winter has been on these shrubs especially, although it was probably last winter and this winter combined. Did it split all the way down? Its pretty fascinating how plants respond to their environment and form different tropisms to it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chubbs Posted February 15, 2011 Share Posted February 15, 2011 Pruning back rose bushes in the upcoming months. Two are 1 yr. old knockout rose bushes, 2 others are established normal rose bushes (likely 10+ years old) that are extremely top heavy in the spring. I really want to prune the two older bushes all the way to the ground. Advice on when and how to do the pruning is appreciated. The deer keep our knockout roses at just the right size about 3-4 feet high. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tombo82685 Posted February 15, 2011 Author Share Posted February 15, 2011 The deer keep our knockout roses at just the right size about 3-4 feet high. get deeroff.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Parsley Posted February 15, 2011 Share Posted February 15, 2011 Prunning at the rate you are doing is good from fall to spring... In terms of pruning, you want to cut the plant back no more then 1/4 inch above the node of the plant. A node is a meristamatice region on a plant where cell division occurs and forms new growth. Ok, thanks. Today was the first day I could see the 2 small bushes thanks to the snowmelt. They were buried since January. I'm hoping to get the Christmas decor. down by the end of the week, and do an assessment of the yard once the snow has melted. I watched branches appear on the ground in the back of my backyard as the snow pack melted away too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MGorse Posted February 15, 2011 Share Posted February 15, 2011 Did it split all the way down? Its pretty fascinating how plants respond to their environment and form different tropisms to it. It split about 6 inches from the ground. It is where two larger limbs come together. I may just make the attempt to tie them up to see what happens. At least it was only one out of many that split. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tombo82685 Posted February 15, 2011 Author Share Posted February 15, 2011 It split about 6 inches from the ground. It is where two larger limbs come together. I may just make the attempt to tie them up to see what happens. At least it was only one out of many that split. yea i was going to say if it wasnt to bad try tying them together i have seen that a lot out in the field not sure how they do though Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MGorse Posted February 15, 2011 Share Posted February 15, 2011 yea i was going to say if it wasnt to bad try tying them together i have seen that a lot out in the field not sure how they do though I will find out this Spring. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tombo82685 Posted February 15, 2011 Author Share Posted February 15, 2011 I will find out this Spring. i would fertilize them in the spring decently to help them "try" to recover if you don;t already do so. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr Torchey Posted February 15, 2011 Share Posted February 15, 2011 Tom, Putting down crabgrass control would prevent any grass seed I put down from germinating, correct? That's always the dilemma I have in the Spring; plant new seed or prevent crabgrass later in the season. Any suggestions? Use Sustain, its an organic fertilizer, cut your grass at 3" and water during the summer (as needed) only twice a week, and go deep, half inch of water at least. If you water everyday, the roots wills stay near the surface, they dont have to go down to get the water they need. By cutting at 3" you will crowd out the weeds, and if you clover leave it, its a fantastic source and regulator of nitrogen. Water seldom but DEEP to promote a thick rich lawn that is tougher against drought and weeds. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ralph Wiggum Posted February 15, 2011 Share Posted February 15, 2011 Yea you can try the porduct i mentioned that scotts carries. Other then that i would wait till fall. Thats truly the best time. Tom, How about the pre emergent followed up with rye grass to fill the holes left from prior year's crabgrass? Is it true rye is aggressive and a general quick cover so then I can seed heavy in the fall? What are these soil tests kits found? Thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grothar Posted February 15, 2011 Share Posted February 15, 2011 Tom, How about the pre emergent followed up with rye grass to fill the holes left from prior year's crabgrass? Is it true rye is aggressive and a general quick cover so then I can seed heavy in the fall? What are these soil tests kits found? Thanks. Penn State Extension office Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yes_Probably_Maybe_No Posted February 15, 2011 Share Posted February 15, 2011 subtitle should be adjusted to "local geologists make revolutionary discovery; grass does indeed exist underneath the snow" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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