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Lawn/Garden/Golf Thread


tombo82685

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gotcha.

I was talking more in the decorative garden category. I've noticed some neighbors letting goldenrod grow. Didn't really see why.

Goldenrod attracts good insects including bees. Its one of the last flowers to bloom in the late summer. It was given a bad rap many years ago because people though they were allergic to it when in fact it was the high mold and ragweed which bloom at the same time. Goldenrod is more visible than ragweed along the road sides so municipalities and PennDot would spray or mow it- out of sight out of mind. More of a marker for other invasive plants in ditches and pastures. Goldenrod is also grown and cultivated as a tea

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Goldenrod attracts good insects including bees. Its one of the last flowers to bloom in the late summer. It was given a bad rap many years ago because people though they were allergic to it when in fact it was the high mold and ragweed which bloom at the same time. Goldenrod is more visible than ragweed along the road sides so municipalities and PennDot would spray or mow it- out of sight out of mind. More of a marker for other invasive plants in ditches and pastures. Goldenrod is also grown and cultivated as a tea

Yup, I thought the same about the allergies. See, I learned something new today.

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My grandfather is complaining about grass in his yard dying off, so I went up to take a look. I'm guessing it is grubs causing this, as the areas continue to expand in coverage from week to week and you can see little holes. Figured I'd post some pics here for confirmation that it is grubs. If it is, will it be o.k. to still put down grub killer this time of the year (I think its usually recommended to apply late Spring, early Summer). Secondly will the areas that died off eventually fill back in or will it require reseeding? Thanks.

I get areas in my lawn that have many small holes like your picture did and the tuff is not easily pulled up. I you find out whats causing it let us know

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for those who are seeding, you should be aware of the time it takes each type of turfgrass to germinate.

these are estimates, actual conditions (soil temp, sunlight, watering) will vary the time.

rye = 5-10 days

fescue = 7-14 days

blue = 14-21 days

all the while you're watering and waiting for your grass seed to sprout, weed seeds in the soil are already germinating.

The first year I bought my house I went with straight ryegrass because the lawn was 80% weeds and I wanted quick establishment.

I am going to work some blue and fescue into the mix when I aerate/overseed each year to get some variety, as there is no "perfect" turfgrass.

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for those who are seeding, you should be aware of the time it takes each type of turfgrass to germinate.

these are estimates, actual conditions (soil temp, sunlight, watering) will vary the time.

rye = 5-10 days

fescue = 7-14 days

blue = 14-21 days

all the while you're watering and waiting for your grass seed to sprout, weed seeds in the soil are already germinating.

The first year I bought my house I went with straight ryegrass because the lawn was 80% weeds and I wanted quick establishment.

I am going to work some blue and fescue into the mix when I aerate/overseed each year to get some variety, as there is no "perfect" turfgrass.

good post... i had a lot of rye in my back yard that i planted last year as well as bluegrass and fescue. My backyard doesn't drain all that well and its down hill from other lawns so i get some runoff. Needless to say, the rye got smoked. Only thing that was left was the bluegrass and fescue. Rye is a great grass for traffic issues or if you can spray like golf course collars and tees or fairways. But a good stand of rye is just to susceptible to many diseases... pythium, GLS, rust, brown patch, dollar spot, ...o my

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good post... i had a lot of rye in my back yard that i planted last year as well as bluegrass and fescue. My backyard doesn't drain all that well and its down hill from other lawns so i get some runoff. Needless to say, the rye got smoked. Only thing that was left was the bluegrass and fescue. Rye is a great grass for traffic issues or if you can spray like golf course collars and tees or fairways. But a good stand of rye is just to susceptible to many diseases... pythium, GLS, rust, brown patch, dollar spot, ...o my

HOC (one form of stress) effects disease pressure. I'm not saying rye isn't disease prone but at home lawn height (2+ inches) it is less of an issue.

It's kind of funny when you think about what we do on the golf course. We take plants that were never meant to live during the summer (poa!) or at least go dormant, but try to keep them green and growing. All the while mow them at HOC that are literally mowing the life out of the plant. Then apply chemicals, management practices, etc to try to keep the grass from dying lol.

We must be crazy tongue.gif

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Well, I nailed down what the disease within my lawn is, leaf spot. I picked some affected blades and they look exactly like the photos online. I keep my grass high so it is not obvious until you look really close, but it is spread out throughout the lawn. I know I am going to collect clippings from here on out, but any other ideas to assist and prevent further damage next year? I will probably core aerate in the next few weekends and maybe overseed again. Tombo, at one point you said it looked like my blades do not appear to be cut straight and could be a sign of a dull blade. I guess I will sharpen the blade again, but I just got a new blade in the spring and even sharpened it over the summer. Any tips on how to eventually eliminate this disease and assist the grass this fall would be greatly appreciated.

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Well, I nailed down what the disease within my lawn is, leaf spot. I picked some affected blades and they look exactly like the photos online. I keep my grass high so it is not obvious until you look really close, but it is spread out throughout the lawn. I know I am going to collect clippings from here on out, but any other ideas to assist and prevent further damage next year? I will probably core aerate in the next few weekends and maybe overseed again. Tombo, at one point you said it looked like my blades do not appear to be cut straight and could be a sign of a dull blade. I guess I will sharpen the blade again, but I just got a new blade in the spring and even sharpened it over the summer. Any tips on how to eventually eliminate this disease and assist the grass this fall would be greatly appreciated.

You positive its leaf spot, do you have a picture? do you know what grass it is on? Their are 2 kinds of leaf spot. Their is grey leaf spot, which hammers rye grass the most, and to a lesser other grasses. Then their is standard leaf spot which hits bluegrass pretty hard. The standard leaf spot occurs most in spring during wet periods.

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Go to these links and you will see photos of blades which look almost identical to mine. It seems to hurt the bluegrass and ryegrass moreso than tall fescue in my yard.

http://www.ag.ndsu.e...cap/pp950-1.gif

http://www.plantpath...files/SUL13.pdf

The blades are almost burned with brown around the edges of the tan spots inside. This is also visible close to the root. If you recall the spotty areas of almost dead looking spots earlier in the summer when we were very dry...from what I've read this is a clear sign of leaf spot/melting out problems. I also read leaf spot is also common during this time of year. I am not expert but am trying to determine what the best course of action is.

I'll try to take pics at a later date, but the camera is not at home right now.

Edit: I guess the only disease that looks similar is dollar spot...could be that as well.

You positive its leaf spot, do you have a picture? do you know what grass it is on? Their are 2 kinds of leaf spot. Their is grey leaf spot, which hammers rye grass the most, and to a lesser other grasses. Then their is standard leaf spot which hits bluegrass pretty hard. The standard leaf spot occurs most in spring during wet periods.

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Go to these links and you will see photos of blades which look almost identical to mine. It seems to hurt the bluegrass and ryegrass moreso than tall fescue in my yard.

http://www.ag.ndsu.e...cap/pp950-1.gif

http://www.plantpath...files/SUL13.pdf

The blades are almost burned with brown around the edges of the tan spots inside. This is also visible close to the root. If you recall the spotty areas of almost dead looking spots earlier in the summer when we were very dry...from what I've read this is a clear sign of leaf spot/melting out problems. I also read leaf spot is also common during this time of year. I am not expert but am trying to determine what the best course of action is.

I'll try to take pics at a later date, but the camera is not at home right now.

Edit: I guess the only disease that looks similar is dollar spot...could be that as well.

Dollar spot is in patches, and is pretty easily distinguished because the lesions on the turf blade have an hour glass appearence that look like thet pinch it off. Here i took some pics of some leaf spot, tell me if this is what you have. The single blade picture its hard to see but you can see some of the lesions on the turf blade.

.

311356_544492191921_80001558_31142028_395771075_n.jpg

300975_544492166971_80001558_31142027_751183566_n.jpg

310448_544492132041_80001558_31142026_227385698_n.jpg

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Yeah! I think it's due to it being in a small group in a garden as opposed to a field. She actually thought it was something I got at a garden center. I'd post a photo but the lovage I have down there just overwhelmed it so I just pulled the goldenrod.

some people think its a nice flower, others hate it like parsley. Honestly, i don't think its that horrifying.

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tombo82685, thoughts on this issue. I put down seed and starter about 3 weeks ago now. It has germinated, however it is very thin and growing extremely slow compared to the already established grass. In fact it appears to no longer even be growing at all, its pretty much stuck at about 2 inches and very think looking. The same thing happened to me last year and it never seemed to really establish. Once the cold came, it pretty much all died off. I would like to prevent that from happening again if possible, thoughts? Im in Central NJ if that helps, I did not check PH since I couldnt find a test kit anywhere, however in the past it has always tested on the alkaline side, which I have always questioned since my yard is covered in pine trees which I have always been told will make the soil acidic.

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tombo82685, thoughts on this issue. I put down seed and starter about 3 weeks ago now. It has germinated, however it is very thin and growing extremely slow compared to the already established grass. In fact it appears to no longer even be growing at all, its pretty much stuck at about 2 inches and very think looking. The same thing happened to me last year and it never seemed to really establish. Once the cold came, it pretty much all died off. I would like to prevent that from happening again if possible, thoughts? Im in Central NJ if that helps, I did not check PH since I couldnt find a test kit anywhere, however in the past it has always tested on the alkaline side, which I have always questioned since my yard is covered in pine trees which I have always been told will make the soil acidic.

You are sure you have alkaline soils, thats pretty rare around here and is common out west. usually in alkaline soils they are high in clay and infiltration is horrible. So i can imagine you soil basically is just soaked, thus not allowing any oxygen into it nor nutrients. What i would do is buy a bag fertilizer that is acidic, like ammonium sulfate...see if their is a response to it.

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Going to try to aerate/overseed/topdress my lawn this weekend.

Have been planning this since the end of august.

This will be the latest I've ever tried since the weather hasn't exactly been cooperating.

My landscape people came out and core aerated late last week. Is it still a good time to overseed now? Or with all the heavy rain we just got again, have the cores simply been plugged and overseeding will not have any help from aerating last week.

Trying to decide if it makes sense to overseed now. This rain has really messed up my plans.

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I have not done any fall maintenance due to time issues and the weather. I may have some time Saturday but really want to wait until next weekend. Anyone think that is too late to aerate and overseed?

still plenty of time left in the season, just going to be slower germination/establishment because of cooler temps and shorter days.

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My landscape people came out and core aerated late last week. Is it still a good time to overseed now? Or with all the heavy rain we just got again, have the cores simply been plugged and overseeding will not have any help from aerating last week.

Trying to decide if it makes sense to overseed now. This rain has really messed up my plans.

If the core holes are still open, you should be ok. I would be worried if you got a ton of rain that would wash away the seed. Maybe wait until this last batch comes through.

I assume you are broadcasting with a spreader and not slit seeding with a machine?

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If the core holes are still open, you should be ok. I would be worried if you got a ton of rain that would wash away the seed. Maybe wait until this last batch comes through.

I assume you are broadcasting with a spreader and not slit seeding with a machine?

Yes, broadcast spreader. I noticed that the cores are (at the very least) no longer visible after the rain we've had since late last week. UGH.

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to everyone who always think they have grub damage. This is what textbook grub damage looks like. This was in our far rough that we dont treat on the course. You can clearly see on this picture where animals have dug into the turf tearing it up and what not. The turf that was torn up should be easily pulled up as was this area.

318508_545124080611_80001558_31146173_2069181468_n.jpg

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