Lawn/Garden/Golf Thread

[chrisNJ]

i know it is prone to some diseases, but i just like the thick blades with tall fescue. it reminds me of some of the grasses i grew up with in north georgia.

tall fescue is the best drought tolerant, while bluegrass is the best recovering grass. Fescue is the best drought tolerant because it has a deeper root system than the other cool season grasses, thus it can obtain water easier.

[tombo82685]

i know it is prone to some diseases, but i just like the thick blades with tall fescue. it reminds me of some of the grasses i grew up with in north georgia.

all turf grasses get diseases....they all sell a tury type tall fescue that has normal size leaves.

[Lady Di]

Wondering if this high humidity will affect me today in processing some pickled beets? I do them outside.

[chrisNJ]

Anyone else notice signs of grub damage in their lawns recently? I thought the dry conditions were getting to my lawn but only certain area show signs of these irregular, brown patches and the same areas showed the same symptoms last summer. I plan on peeling an area of lawn up tomorrow to see if they are there. The other sign is that squirrels, birds, and other animals are picking at my lawn often. The lawn was doing great until a few weeks ago. I'll try to take photos tomorrow for you to see Tombo and other turf masters.

[tombo82685]

Anyone else notice signs of grub damage in their lawns recently? I thought the dry conditions were getting to my lawn but only certain area show signs of these irregular, brown patches and the same areas showed the same symptoms last summer. I plan on peeling an area of lawn up tomorrow to see if they are there. The other sign is that squirrels, birds, and other animals are picking at my lawn often. The lawn was doing great until a few weeks ago. I'll try to take photos tomorrow for you to see Tombo and other turf masters.

best to do if its grubs is peel it away and see. Seems a little early for grub damage but who knows....picture would be great.

[PoconoSnow]

After this weeks 3-6 inches of rain in my area, the grass is sprouting up quite nice once again. I let it grow a little higher than normal during these hotter parts of summer, it tends to burn much less when it gets too dry.

[chrisNJ]

best to do if its grubs is peel it away and see. Seems a little early for grub damage but who knows....picture would be great.

Here are some photos. Yes, grass needs mowing, but I have been out of town all week. I will check from grubs underneath tomorrow.

I gave up, the photos are not uploading.

[dwang0725]

When is the best time to put down weed control? For some reason, I have a lot more crab grass growing this year than in years past. I was told by the lady at the nursery to wait for temps to cool down a bit before applying (80 degrees or so, or else the grass will burn). Should I just wait until September?

[tombo82685]

When is the best time to put down weed control? For some reason, I have a lot more crab grass growing this year than in years past. I was told by the lady at the nursery to wait for temps to cool down a bit before applying (80 degrees or so, or else the grass will burn). Should I just wait until September?

do you have broadleaf issues? or weedy grass issues like goosegrass and crabgrass? When did you put down your pre emerge app down in the spring?

[dwang0725]

do you have broadleaf issues? or weedy grass issues like goosegrass and crabgrass? When did you put down your pre emerge app down in the spring?

Broadleaf wise, I have crabgrass, goosegrass and most likely quackgrass, along with clover and some other weeds that I cannot identify (I think it's knotweed). This past spring, broadleaf plantain and dandelions were prevalent only on the part of the lawn that was closest to the road. I did not put down any pre-emergent this year. I never had this problem in the past. It only became quite noticeable this year.

I will try to get some pictures here in a few days when I mow.

[dryslotted]

Broadleaf wise, I have crabgrass, goosegrass and most likely quackgrass, along with clover and some other weeds that I cannot identify (I think it's knotweed). This past spring, broadleaf plantain and dandelions were prevalent only on the part of the lawn that was closest to the road. I did not put down any pre-emergent this year. I never had this problem in the past. It only became quite noticeable this year.

I will try to get some pictures here in a few days when I mow.

I have the same exact issues this season and I haven't put anything down since about late March/early April. I was going to spray the whole lawn with some Weed-B-Gone, but have hesitated with all the heat.

[tombo82685]

Broadleaf wise, I have crabgrass, goosegrass and most likely quackgrass, along with clover and some other weeds that I cannot identify (I think it's knotweed). This past spring, broadleaf plantain and dandelions were prevalent only on the part of the lawn that was closest to the road. I did not put down any pre-emergent this year. I never had this problem in the past. It only became quite noticeable this year.

I will try to get some pictures here in a few days when I mow.

First off, crabgrass, goosegrass, and quackgrass aren't broadleaf weeds, clover is. So a broadleaf herbicide would do nothing for them. Did you do any seeding or disruption of the soil last fall or spring or sodded any areas?

I have the same exact issues this season and I haven't put anything down since about late March/early April. I was going to spray the whole lawn with some Weed-B-Gone, but have hesitated with all the heat.

Thats to early fora single app of pre emerge. Most of the time companies split app like do one that time and then come back in may early june and do another. The reason why your pre emerge wore out was probably because you put on to early combined with a wet spring that can flush a pre emerge out of soil quicker.

For broadleaf weeds you need to use a liquid herbicide, granular stuff do not have the same success right. Plants take in liquid herbicides almost 100 percent, while granular ones can be lost. I would do a herbicide app when the temperature is 85 or below.

[chrisNJ]

I put my pre-emerge on this year in late April and as Tom said, a bit early given the rains we had. It shows in some small areas of crabgrass and a few clovers. More scattered crabgrass than the last 2 years.

First off, crabgrass, goosegrass, and quackgrass aren't broadleaf weeds, clover is. So a broadleaf herbicide would do nothing for them. Did you do any seeding or disruption of the soil last fall or spring or sodded any areas?

Thats to early fora single app of pre emerge. Most of the time companies split app like do one that time and then come back in may early june and do another. The reason why your pre emerge wore out was probably because you put on to early combined with a wet spring that can flush a pre emerge out of soil quicker.

For broadleaf weeds you need to use a liquid herbicide, granular stuff do not have the same success right. Plants take in liquid herbicides almost 100 percent, while granular ones can be lost. I would do a herbicide app when the temperature is 85 or below.

[FUCK JOE BIDEN]

First off, crabgrass, goosegrass, and quackgrass aren't broadleaf weeds, clover is. So a broadleaf herbicide would do nothing for them. Did you do any seeding or disruption of the soil last fall or spring or sodded any areas?

Thats to early fora single app of pre emerge. Most of the time companies split app like do one that time and then come back in may early june and do another. The reason why your pre emerge wore out was probably because you put on to early combined with a wet spring that can flush a pre emerge out of soil quicker.

For broadleaf weeds you need to use a liquid herbicide, granular stuff do not have the same success right. Plants take in liquid herbicides almost 100 percent, while granular ones can be lost. I would do a herbicide app when the temperature is 85 or below.

All good advice. If you do choose to do a granular, apply it when there is a heavy dew, after a rain storm, or even wet the area with a garden hose. If the weeds are wet the granular will stick better to the plant.

As tom said, liquid is better however.

[chrisNJ]

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Thanks to rains lately and Tombo and Spectracide which sure assisted in my brown patches issues in the last 2 weeks.

[tombo82685]

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Thanks to rains lately and Tombo and Spectracide which sure assisted in my brown patches issues in the last 2 weeks.

looks beautiful, job well done.

[Parsley]

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Thanks to rains lately and Tombo and Spectracide which sure assisted in my brown patches issues in the last 2 weeks.

Wow! Great lawn!

[chrisNJ]

Thanks. I can't stress how important it is to perform fall maintenance; dethatching, aeration, and overseeding. I did not even do the aeration part last fall. Will do that this fall and hit the other side of the yard which does not look as good. I am still learning but it is a process.

Wow! Great lawn!

[FUCK JOE BIDEN]

My yard at home is slowly coming back from the heat of the summer. I will still aerify, topdress/fill holes (straight sand) and overseed this fall, probably the 1st week in september.

[tombo82685]

my backyard got hammered by pythium. I have a lot of ryegrass and the drainage is pretty bad. It got destroyed. The fescue and bluegrass though are comming in so we shall see how much fills in.

[rossi]

Tombo,

What do you think about seeding and fertilizing before big rains this weekend?

Thanks,

Mark

[hazwoper]

Tombo,

What do you think about seeding and fertilizing before big rains this weekend?

Thanks,

Mark

Don't do it. your seeds will be washed away. Best to seed when you know a prolonged light to mod rain event is on the way IMO

[tombo82685]

Don't do it. your seeds will be washed away. Best to seed when you know a prolonged light to mod rain event is on the way IMO

this^...if it doesnt rain this weekend do it after the rains tomorrow ground will be nice and soft

[FUCK JOE BIDEN]

We obviously don't need 5-10" of rain, but this is going to finally re-wet the soil profile of my lawn. I still have dust below 1/4" due to the heavy clay which I am trying to fix over time.

[catoctin wx]

This spring I had a nice lawn that has been destroyed by both construction and crab grass. The soil is essentially packed clay, which isn't helping. I have a guy coming in a couple of weeks to de-thatch (still some lingering patches of hay/straw from when it was seeded last September) and to aerate the soil. I read that I should put down a compost and overseed once the aeration is done.

Do you have any recommendations on what compost to use? I would prefer to find one that I can put down using a spreader (like putting down fertilizer), but I don't know if that is normal. I have never put down compost before, so I know nothing about it. Do I put down the compost and then overseed, or the other way around?

Thanks!

[tombo82685]

This spring I had a nice lawn that has been destroyed by both construction and crab grass. The soil is essentially packed clay, which isn't helping. I have a guy coming in a couple of weeks to de-thatch (still some lingering patches of hay/straw from when it was seeded last September) and to aerate the soil. I read that I should put down a compost and overseed once the aeration is done.

Do you have any recommendations on what compost to use? I would prefer to find one that I can put down using a spreader (like putting down fertilizer), but I don't know if that is normal. I have never put down compost before, so I know nothing about it. Do I put down the compost and then overseed, or the other way around?

Thanks!

what is your goal for the compost? Like why are you putting it down?

[catoctin wx]

what is your goal for the compost? Like why are you putting it down?

I got an email from a local nursery about how to repair damaged lawns. I had already arranged to have the lawn dethatched and aerated, and this email also said it was good to put down compost. Since I have such bad soil, it sounded like the right thing to do to help improve the situation.

[tombo82685]

I got an email from a local nursery about how to repair damaged lawns. I had already arranged to have the lawn dethatched and aerated, and this email also said it was good to put down compost. Since I have such bad soil, it sounded like the right thing to do to help improve the situation.

usually when you put compost down improve your OMATT in the soil and help with its structure. If you can afford it, then go for it, but i don't think its necessary. Look at it this way, you had a nice lawn coming up in that clay, why can't it do the same? The only reason it got destroyed was because you had issues with your pre emerge and contruction, nothing soil related.

[catoctin wx]

usually when you put compost down improve your OMATT in the soil and help with its structure. If you can afford it, then go for it, but i don't think its necessary. Look at it this way, you had a nice lawn coming up in that clay, why can't it do the same? The only reason it got destroyed was because you had issues with your pre emerge and contruction, nothing soil related.

Ok, thanks for the advice! I'll just overseed once the aeration is done and see how that goes. Some areas have been completely torched by the drought and are going to require a bit of work.

[dryslotted]

Tom, have you ever used a dethatching blade? I was planning on having the lawn aerated and/or dethatched at the end of this season. Would it be worth the ~$20 to do the dethatching part myself? I came across it in Lowe's the other day and had honestly never seen one before...