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Lawn/Garden/Golf Thread


tombo82685

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We spray the whole golf course with confront (AI. tricolpyr and clopyarlid), so that has helped, but yea ia gree it wasn't as "bad " this year. The clover outbreak has been way up, after winter with the damage from the snow molds on some of the fairways. Also, whatever didn't recover from last summers heat has gone to clover. I did a trimec bent spray about a mont h or so ago and it hurt it, but didn't kill it. Should theoretically do a follow up app but we just don't have the time. This week or next week im going around with confront in the rough around the club house and green and tee banks and hitting the clover. I am also going to back pack some trimec bent to kill it in some of our collars and tees.

What are you guys seeing and how are you handling it chemically?

For broadleafs we use trimec or momentum.

This year because the weather and therefore rounds have been down we are spot spraying the rough and fwys.

Adding a sticker really helps wipe out the clover, not expensive and the rate is 1-3 pints per 100gal of spray solution (I go with 1pt and have good control)

It has been a bad spring for spraying with all the rainy days, we are definitely behind with what we would want to have put out by now.

On the plus side, we haven't sprayed our fairways yet (normally at least 1 fungicide spray by now) so that has saved around $2k

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I've got mosquitoes the size of small birds now all over the yard with all the rain and now the heat. I've got a lot of shade and a storm water runoff creek to the side of the yard to help them out. Going on an all out war on them starting tomorrow because they make being outside unpleasant even in the heat of the day. Bug zapper out back buzzing at least 6-10 times per minute out there. Aside from excessive heat the bugs are my least favorite part of summer.

sure they aren't craneflys?

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For broadleafs we use trimec or momentum.

This year because the weather and therefore rounds have been down we are spot spraying the rough and fwys.

Adding a sticker really helps wipe out the clover, not expensive and the rate is 1-3 pints per 100gal of spray solution (I go with 1pt and have good control)

It has been a bad spring for spraying with all the rainy days, we are definitely behind with what we would want to have put out by now.

On the plus side, we haven't sprayed our fairways yet (normally at least 1 fungicide spray by now) so that has saved around $2k

I have been spraying since early april, for poa seedhead control, growth regular, ABW, and this week i just put in Taratan and prudent. Tartan for brown patch control and some dollar spot control...Prudent, a phosphite for pythium control. Granted we arent in pythium weather yet but that spray is suppose to build the plants antibodies to be able to fight it off during medium to low pressure. Once in high pressure we go with a 3 way.

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Second year in a row of an awful red thread outbreak it appears as each day more and more patches show up. I suspect my lawn to look awful in the next week or two. Not sure what to do. At this rate I'll never have a nice lawn.

Lawn is only 3 yrs old as I have new construction. Soil is clayey and rocky, but even in areas where decent top soil was placed by builder, red thread is spreading. Only place I appear to have not had a problem is areas of heavy shade (which is a small portion of my total property. What can I do to stop this every year? Its getting to the point that I just don't want to spend money each year for a nice lawn.

HELP!

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I have been spraying since early april, for poa seedhead control, growth regular, ABW, and this week i just put in Taratan and prudent. Tartan for brown patch control and some dollar spot control...Prudent, a phosphite for pythium control. Granted we arent in pythium weather yet but that spray is suppose to build the plants antibodies to be able to fight it off during medium to low pressure. Once in high pressure we go with a 3 way.

phosphites are pretty amazing when it comes to pythium prevention. I haven't gone solely with them on greens but the past 3 years our tees and fairways have only been sprayed with phosphites for pythium. Granted you have to be very timely with applications because it is only a preventative treatment. But the cost savings are fantastic.

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Second year in a row of an awful red thread outbreak it appears as each day more and more patches show up. I suspect my lawn to look awful in the next week or two. Not sure what to do. At this rate I'll never have a nice lawn.

Lawn is only 3 yrs old as I have new construction. Soil is clayey and rocky, but even in areas where decent top soil was placed by builder, red thread is spreading. Only place I appear to have not had a problem is areas of heavy shade (which is a small portion of my total property. What can I do to stop this every year? Its getting to the point that I just don't want to spend money each year for a nice lawn.

HELP!

Red thread is a low nitrogen disease, that doesn't mean go out and hammer it with fertilizer. What it means is that its worse on lawns that a deficient in it. To help prevent red thread or minimize its effects you want to reduce the leaf wetness, like all diseases. The longer the leaf stays wet the better shot of disease. Red thread is active in the spring and fall when temps are in the 60-75 range especially during wet periods. You want to mow frequently and bag the clippings to remove the diseased blades. Take soil samples and make sure you have adequate potassium and phosphorous levels. In this area we always have high phosphorous, but the potassium levels are usually low.

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Tombo, general question about bagging grass clippings vs. mulching them back into the lawn. What's really better for the lawn? I've always been a fan of bagging clippings, its makes the yard look neater and cleaner. Sometime if I'm lazy and don't have the time to bag clippings, I'll mulch the clippings back into the grass with my mower.

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Tombo, general question about bagging grass clippings vs. mulching them back into the lawn. What's really better for the lawn? I've always been a fan of bagging clippings, its makes the yard look neater and cleaner. Sometime if I'm lazy and don't have the time to bag clippings, I'll mulch the clippings back into the grass with my mower.

mulching back in is the best because when the grass blade breaks down all the nutrients in the blade like, nitrogen, potassium, iron etc get into thre soil so the turf can reuse them. Now if you're one of those people who mow their grass once a week and if you didn't bag it grass would be laying everywhere, then bag it. I never bag it cause i mow every 2 days.

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mulching back in is the best because when the grass blade breaks down all the nutrients in the blade like, nitrogen, potassium, iron etc get into thre soil so the turf can reuse them. Now if you're one of those people who mow their grass once a week and if you didn't bag it grass would be laying everywhere, then bag it. I never bag it cause i mow every 2 days.

gotcha, thanks alot for the info. :thumbsup:

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ripped out damaged grass (sod) replaced it with lowes sod that has died in less than 24 hrs and i watered the hell out of it. looked like **** when i put it down. knew it was shot already

2qdweq0.jpg

Sorry to hear that. I drive by the local lowes and see their sod just baking on the concrete. You really need to lay it within 48hr or less after cutting.

I'm lucky since there is a sod farm within 20 min my golf course, I can give them a call to see when it will be cut and pick it up while it's "fresh"

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Sorry to hear that. I drive by the local lowes and see their sod just baking on the concrete. You really need to lay it within 48hr or less after cutting.

I'm lucky since there is a sod farm within 20 min my golf course, I can give them a call to see when it will be cut and pick it up while it's "fresh"

I will need this info also for the future as I'd like to have a grass only yard my back yard is 3/4 clover 1/4 grass(s) blend. So at some point I wanna do mine over.

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Sorry to hear that. I drive by the local lowes and see their sod just baking on the concrete. You really need to lay it within 48hr or less after cutting.

I'm lucky since there is a sod farm within 20 min my golf course, I can give them a call to see when it will be cut and pick it up while it's "fresh"

went back to lowes and got my money back. ordered some form a local garden center that will be freshly cut.

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Anyone else beginning to see a good brown out to their yard? I really noticed it today and on most of the neighbors lawns. If I had the time to water maybe it would be better. Hopefully some rain will hit end of week/weekend.

Most people around me cut the grass way to close to the ground, their lawns are yellow turning to brown now.

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Most people around me cut the grass way to close to the ground, their lawns are yellow turning to brown now.

Same here, but I always keep mine between 3 and 3.5", even longer during droughts. Looks like we may get some decent rains over the next few days.

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Anyone else notice tiny frogs in their lawn? These are about the size of my thumbnail. My neighbor told me he found a larger bullfrog in his yard so maybe that is the source. This is something I've never seen before. They better watch out for the mower today!

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  • 4 weeks later...

Lawn is doing well, but I have a question. For some reason my mower misses random single blades of grass every time I mow; randomly throughout the areas I mow. This has only happened this season and with the same mower I've had for 5-6 years. I replaced the blade and did the annual tune up. It is baffling me. It does only seem to be the bluegrass or ryegrass blades, not the tall fescue. I am guessing it has something to do with unbalanced mower bar which does seem to have loosened a bit since my yard is hilly. I will attempt to tighten things up, but if anyone else has had similar issues, let me know. My mower is a Toro which I purchased in 2005-2006. Thanks.

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Lawn is doing well, but I have a question. For some reason my mower misses random single blades of grass every time I mow; randomly throughout the areas I mow. This has only happened this season and with the same mower I've had for 5-6 years. I replaced the blade and did the annual tune up. It is baffling me. It does only seem to be the bluegrass or ryegrass blades, not the tall fescue. I am guessing it has something to do with unbalanced mower bar which does seem to have loosened a bit since my yard is hilly. I will attempt to tighten things up, but if anyone else has had similar issues, let me know. My mower is a Toro which I purchased in 2005-2006. Thanks.

Ryegrass makes sense, because its the most rigid and hardest to cut grass, which is why its so good in area with heavy foot traffic. My guess would be try slowing your pace down, sharpen blade. It has happened to me before also.

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Thanks. I also notice that if I bag it does not happen. I do have a much thicker lawn this year after overseeding last fall, which may have an impact. I am going to try to throw more tall fescue in the mix this fall. The only probably with the tall fescue is the bunching effect. But is is my preferred choice of grass.

Ryegrass makes sense, because its the most rigid and hardest to cut grass, which is why its so good in area with heavy foot traffic. My guess would be try slowing your pace down, sharpen blade. It has happened to me before also.

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