PowderBeard

1 minute ago, Ginx snewx said:

He always leaves out those hills in Killingly Woodstock Sterling that have excellent elevation in his broad brush maps. I understand though as anything Neast of IJD is dragon country for city kids. Lol just kidding Ryan. But that's tough to delineate on a made for TV map.

A fun site for topo geeks. https://en-us.topographic-map.com/maps/e8/Connecticut/

Warnings up for Berks and Worcester Hills. 

Just now, weatherwiz said:

This is great

 

 

Rookie question, I remember a topic on here at times has been the best is 30-50 miles N/NW of modeled. Still apply?

I was surprised to see the Burlington NWS forecast for southern VT being higher than most models. Would feed into that idea. 

9 minutes ago, Damage In Tolland said:

Every piece of guidance has trended south and colder to Euro today for a pike south jack 

colder =/= jack

Looks like the HRRR trending colder for central CT and up the valley.

9 minutes ago, weatherwiz said:

The NAM I feel has been pretty consistent with this...quite similar to the Euro. I was buying this pretty good which is why I went aggressive with my map yesterday. Been pretty impressied with the NAM soundings at BDL

 

But ma sun angle!  All seriousness I absolutely agree with this. I wouldn't be surprised to see Norfolk,CT report 8-10" and Massif north to the Hub doing 6-8". 

5 minutes ago, powderfreak said:

Something like a EURO/RGEM/GGEM/NAM blend?  The 12z GFS looks sort of like the odd one out.

 

And for once it looks the most logical by typical systems.

Nice fat flakes falling.

10 minutes ago, tamarack said:

Hickory and hophornbeam must be close and maybe Osage orange, though different sources show different relative BTU levels.  Black locust offers rot resistance equal to cedar plus lots more strength.  Not native to the Northeast but planted (and naturalized) in many places.

A great site for firewood geeks. 

https://firewoodhoardersclub.com/forums/resources/firewood-btu-drying-chart.15/ 

For heat output and seasoning times nothing compares to ash or birch imo. Easy maul splitting as well. 

1 hour ago, moneypitmike said:

Make for great firewood, but man are they splintery when you split them.

I would take that over trying to split steel wool AKA elm. 

6 minutes ago, kdxken said:

Bring the downriggers up a few feet and throw some Chum. Not a lot biting this morning.

Time to throw a buzzbait or Whopper Plopper and piss them off into biting.

The Scotts Starter with Weed Prevent is working wonders. All the crab grass and dandelions are coming up white and dead. Even turning the clover and chickweed yellow so I'm assuming it will be dead soon. Going to over seed again in a couple weeks when soil is more consistently in the upper 50/low 60 range. Still a rookie but the more and more I read the more and more I realize the issues with Scotts grass seeds. 50% seed and 50% coating. Trying some Jonathan Green with a similar fescue/rye/bluegrass blend. 

40 minutes ago, Brewbeer said:

100 foot tall white pine in the woods behind my house snapped off 20 feet up, it was 2 feet in diameter.  

Any good gusts down there? Only 20-25mph gusts here thus far. 

Definitely going to have to put more seed down towards the end of the month with more starter/weed prevent. Also going with a clover lawn infront of the wall where the small pines are and the upper right corner near the road. Next project will be all crushed stone on the far side of the driveway for my other parking spot and around our raised veggie beds (not pictured). March was all about grub-ex and moss control (raked a lot of dead grubs and moss out) then aerated and two apps of fert given how poor and compacted the soil was. 

As much as it is a beautiful sight on radar I hope folks get power back ASAP. Those more rural areas could be out a while. 

47*, .13" so far. Want some howlers later. Bring em down!

6 minutes ago, moneypitmike said:

Thanks--I wasn't aware they had pre-emergents that didn't impact grass.  That sounds like a great idea.  Do you put that down prior to seeding?

 

 

I did. It is not a broad spectrum pre-m though so it depends on the types of weeds you have.

49 minutes ago, moneypitmike said:

Sorry for the dumb questions here.....

I want to overseed my lawn.  I know I need to rake it.  Do I put down fertilize a couple days before I seed?  Same time as seeding?  After seeding?

 

Should I use a starter fertilizer even though it's already established?

 

Thanks for the help!

Depends on how thick/thin the lawn is imo. Fertilizing in spring also encourages weed growth so given how thin my lawn is I also went with Scotts Starter w/ Weed Preventer. Has a pre-emergent that also allows new grass seed to grow. If it is well established I would throw down a fertilizer but make sure it doesn't have a pre-emergent in it.

Slow and steady. When we bought it to so far this year.

Overseeded the thin spots and hoping they fill in a bit.

38 minutes ago, TauntonBlizzard2013 said:

Is it too early to throw some seed down?

No real cold weather coming in. Check your soil temps. I like low 50s, just takes longer to germinate. I'd rather go early and have less germination but lasting than later in spring and have it all burn up in July. 

 Already did a moss treatment and overseeded a ton yesterday. I'm actually surprised with how much I'm starting with this spring and how green it is. 

We remember lol

4 minutes ago, HIPPYVALLEY said:

Dumping now.  Moderate snow, big flakes. 
0.5”

34F but at this rate it is sticking to pavement now. 

Radar is looking mixy up the river valley. A few hundred feet might be a difference maker. 

2" down. Saggy trees